Stand at the south-eastern corner of Blang Padang and you can see the entrance gate of the Kerkhof, its walls carrying the names of Dutch soldiers and the dates they died. Turn the other way and the white walls and black domes of Masjid Raya Baiturrahman rise above the treeline. Few cities hold their history this openly, and in Banda Aceh the layers sit within walking distance of each other.
The city suits travellers who are interested in how a place rebuilds itself, and who are willing to move at an unhurried pace between mosques, monuments and the shoreline. Dress modestly, expect a conservative environment, and plan around the rain, which falls most heavily from October to December.
This guide covers the landmarks and experiences you can plan a visit around, followed by a single-day route and answers to the questions travellers ask most often.
Top things to do in Banda Aceh
1. Masjid Raya Baiturrahman
The great mosque at the heart of the city is its most famous landmark, with five black domes, white walls and two tall minarets standing on a green expanse. It was originally built in the 12th century and caught fire several times, including during the Dutch attack on Kutaraja in 1873; the replacement was built by the Dutch military government and completed in 1883. The architecture and ornamentation, including the onion-shaped domes and decorated pillars, are what make it worth a slow visit.
Non-Muslims will be asked to remain in the plaza and not enter the mosque, and a Muslim dress code applies. Combine it with the Kerkhof, whose entrance gate is in front of the south-eastern corner of Blang Padang.
2. Museum Tsunami Aceh
The museum is the city's principal place for understanding the events of 26 December 2004, when an earthquake off the western coast of Sumatra was followed by a tsunami that caused great damage and killed around 60,000 people in the city. Give it time rather than treating it as a quick stop, and pair it with the other tsunami-related sites listed below so the day forms a single narrative.
3. PLTD Apung
This is the floating electric generator ship, a 2,600-ton vessel that was swept 2 km inland by the tsunami and now stands as a tourist attraction. You can get a good overview of the city from the top of the ship, which makes the scale of the wave easier to grasp than any description.
The Tsunami Monument & Garden is located beside the electric generator ship, so see the two together in one stop.
4. Ulee Lheue
Ulee Lheue is the shoreline facing the Malacca straits, and it was severely damaged and submerged by a 10 m high wave on 26 December 2004. The local government has since built a new seaport here, and if you plan to visit Sabang and Weh island you can take a Ro-Ro ferry or speed boat from this point. The beach has kept its beauty, and people come daily to enjoy the horizon, watch the sunset in the evening, or spend time on the beach at night on the weekend.
5. Gunongan and Taman Putroe Phang
Gunongan was erected by Sultan Iskandar Muda (1607–1636) as a private playground and bathing place for his wife Putro Phang, and it had access to the sultan's palace through the traditional 'Pintu Aceh', used by royalty only. It is quite enjoyable to visit during the late afternoon or sunset, when the light is softer and the heat has eased.
6. The Aceh Museum
The museum on Sultan Alaidin Mahmud Syah St exhibits ceramics, weapons and cultural artifacts including clothing, jewellery, calligraphy, Islamic ornamentation and kitchen equipment. The most interesting item is a large bell called "Lonceng Cakra Donya", a gift from the Chinese Grand-Duke in the 15th century, delivered by Admiral Cheng Ho in 1414. In the same complex there is a 'Rumah Aceh' house built in 1941 in classic Aceh architectural style, and to the west of the museum is a graveyard complex holding the remains of Aceh Sultans.
7. Kerkhof
The Dutch military graveyard, known locally as Peucut Kerkhoff, holds the graves of Dutch soldiers who died in the Aceh War. On the walls of the entrance gate you can read the names of the people buried there, along with details of where and when they died. The entrance gate is in front of the south-eastern corner of Blang Padang, which makes it easy to combine with Masjid Raya Baiturrahman.
8. Indonesian Airline Monument
This monument commemorates the Acehnese contribution to the emergence of the Republic of Indonesia. When the Dutch intended to reoccupy the country after independence in 1945 and much territory had fallen to them by 1949, President Soekarno asked the Acehnese to donate money for an aircraft to avoid the enemy blockade. A Douglas DC-3 was purchased with those donations, and this early plane was the precursor of the Garuda Indonesia fleet.
9. Fisherman boat at Desa Lampulo
In Desa Lampulo, Kota Alam, a small fishing boat sits on top of an inhabitant's house; 59 people were reportedly saved by boarding it and riding it to safety. It is a dramatic image and one of the most affecting stops on any tsunami tour. There is no charge to see it.
10. Graveyard in Bitay Village
In Bitay you can still see the grave of the saint Teungku di Bitay, who taught the Acehnese the art of casting cannon, and the mosque beside the grave is revered as sacred. Aceh and Turkey had a close relationship in times past, and many technicians and weapons from the Turkish fleet came and settled here; historical remains of that time include a mosque, a monument and Turkish headstones in the village.
11. Cut Nya Dien House
This is a replica of the home of Cut Nyak Dhien, an Indonesian woman revolutionary from Aceh, built after the colonial forces burned the original down. Although the surrounding area was the worst hit by the tsunami, the house survived, and it now functions as a museum. Cut Nyak Dhien joined the fight against the Dutch in 1875 and continued the struggle after both her husbands died in battle, until she was captured and exiled to West Java, where she died in 1906.
12. Sulthanah Safiatuddin Park
The park sits in the north-east of the city centre and is open around the clock. You can reach it by private vehicle or public transportation. It is also the venue for Aceh Culture Week, the festival held in Banda Aceh with culinary delights and souvenirs from all districts in Aceh; check locally whether your visit coincides with it.
13. Cycling, hiking and motorbike touring
A bicycle is a good way to explore both the long history of Banda Aceh and the impact of the 2004 tsunami, with bicycles, maps and route descriptions available locally. Motorbike touring is another way to see the region: after the tsunami, international donors and the Indonesian government built plenty of excellent roads, and the road along the west coast is of great beauty, with green hills and mountains and a beach behind every corner.
14. Island dropping to Pulau Kreusik
The uninhabited island of Pulau Kreusik has a white beach that is free of mosquitoes and safe for swimming, and it is about an hour from Banda Aceh. You can either make a day trip or stay overnight.
15. Aceh Culture & Tourism Agency
The agency on Jl. Tgk. Chik Kuta Karang No. 3 has friendly and helpful staff who provide a free map of Banda Aceh and the surrounding region, a map of Aceh province, and a colour-printed Aceh guide book, all in a small bag with pictures of Aceh on it. It is a sensible first stop if you want printed material before setting out.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Masjid Raya Baiturrahman, remaining in the plaza if you are not Muslim, then walk to the Kerkhof, whose entrance gate is in front of the south-eastern corner of Blang Padang. Continue to the Aceh Museum on Sultan Alaidin Mahmud Syah St, where you can also see the 'Rumah Aceh' house and the graveyard complex of the Aceh Sultans.
Afternoon: Visit Museum Tsunami Aceh, then follow the tsunami trail to PLTD Apung, where you can climb the ship for an overview of the city, and the Tsunami Monument & Garden beside it. Add the fisherman boat at Desa Lampulo if time allows.
Evening: Head to Ulee Lheue for the sunset over the Malacca straits, or to Gunongan and Taman Putroe Phang if you prefer to stay closer to the centre for the late afternoon light.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit Banda Aceh?
The city has a tropical rainforest climate with near-constant temperatures and no true dry season. Summer, from June through August, is the driest part of the year, while late autumn and early winter, from October to December, is the rainiest time.
Can non-Muslims enter Masjid Raya Baiturrahman?
Non-Muslims will be asked to remain in the plaza and not enter the mosque. A Muslim dress code applies, so dress accordingly.
How do I get to Sabang and Weh island?
From Ulee Lheue, where the local government has built a new seaport, you can take a Ro-Ro ferry or a speed boat.
Where can I get maps and information on arrival?
The Aceh Culture & Tourism Agency on Jl. Tgk. Chik Kuta Karang No. 3 provides a free map of Banda Aceh and the surrounding region, a map of Aceh province and a colour-printed Aceh guide book.
Decide how many days you can give the city, then build your route around the mosque, the museum and the shoreline, and start planning.