Stand on the plaza in front of the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption and you will see a city still holding itself together: a shattered cathedral shell where residents continue to pray outside, funerals held in the plaza behind the main building. A short walk away, the National Palace offers another reminder of the 2010 earthquake, its ruins a defining sight of the city.
Port-au-Prince suits travellers who want to understand Haiti's history and culture directly, and who are prepared for a city where infrastructure is fragile.
1. Musée du Panthéon National Haïtien
This museum on Avenue de la République covers the heroes of Haitian independence and Haitian history and culture. Its centrepiece is the anchor of the Santa Maria, Christopher Columbus's flagship, displayed in the exploration age section. Each period of the chronology has its own mural and paragon items from that time.
Entrance is free, and individual guided tours through the chronology are available for US$1. Take the guided tour if you want the sequence of periods explained as you move through the rooms.
2. National Palace (Palais National)
The National Palace collapsed during the earthquake and stands as one of Port-au-Prince's most startling reminders of the quake's power. Adjacent to the palace was one of the city's tent cities, whose residents occupied what used to be the Champs-de-Mar, described as the most beautiful park in Haiti; those residents have since been evicted. As of 2018 the ruins of the palace had been removed and construction of a new, identical palace was to commence.
Combine it with the cathedral, which is just down the road. Check locally what access is possible around the site before you go, since the palace area has been changing.
3. Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption (Cathédrale Notre-Dame de L'Assomption)
Port-au-Prince's largest cathedral is just down the road from the palace and is likewise a shell of its former glory. Residents continue to pray outside its broken husk, and funerals are frequently held in a plaza behind the main building.
Visit as part of the same walk as the National Palace. The plaza behind the main building is where you are most likely to see the cathedral in active use.
4. A moto taxi tour with Audel Marseille
Audel Marseille is an experienced moto taxi driver who will pick you up at your hotel and show you every corner of Port-au-Prince. He is fluent in English, French and Spanish, and normally charges US$20 for a three-to-four-hour trip through the city.
He will wait while you visit museums and lead you through Marche de Fer. Arrange the trip in advance by phone or email, and treat the driver-led route as a way to cover ground between the sights above rather than as a substitute for visiting them.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Musée du Panthéon National Haïtien on Avenue de la République, taking the guided tour through the chronology of Haitian history and the anchor of the Santa Maria.
Afternoon: Walk to the National Palace to see the site of the collapsed palace and the former Champs-de-Mar, then continue down the road to the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, where residents pray outside the shell and funerals are held in the plaza behind.
Evening: Book Audel Marseille for a late-afternoon moto taxi trip, using the ride to see more of the city and to be led through Marche de Fer.
Is there an entrance fee at the Musée du Panthéon National Haïtien?
Entrance is free. Individual guided tours through the chronology of Haitian history are available for US$1.
What does a moto taxi tour with Audel Marseille cost, and how long does it take?
He normally charges US$20 for a three-to-four-hour trip through the city, and he will pick you up at your hotel.
What happened to the tent city next to the National Palace?
Its residents, who occupied what used to be the Champs-de-Mar, have now been evicted. As of 2018 the ruins of the palace had been removed and construction of a new, identical palace was to commence.
Can I combine the National Palace and the cathedral in one visit?
Yes. The cathedral is just down the road from the palace, so the two are easily seen together.
Use these four stops as the spine of your itinerary, confirm current conditions on the ground before you travel, and start planning your days around them.