Stand at the top of the Royal Mile, where the castle gates open onto a wide, traffic-free stretch of stone, and the whole shape of Edinburgh falls away below you: closes dropping steeply off either side, the New Town grid beyond, and Arthur's Seat rising at the far end of the ridge.
The city suits travellers who are happy to spend a day on their feet, moving between a medieval Old Town and a Georgian New Town that sit side by side. It also suits anyone planning around a season, because August and the winter festive period change the city completely.
This guide covers the main sights named in the source material, the outdoor walks worth building a day around, and the festivals that shape when you should come.
Top things to do in Edinburgh
1. Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle sits on the crag at the top of the Old Town, and the Royal Mile descends from it all the way down to the palace. It is the natural place to start, because the street below is laid out around it.
In summer the castle often sells out, so book online in advance. If you are in the city in August, the Edinburgh Military Tattoo takes place below the battlements, and there are usually fireworks at the end of the shows that can also be seen from the Grassmarket area.
2. Royal Mile
The Royal Mile is the long street descending from the castle to the palace. The best of it is High Street, the broad upper traffic-free section, with medieval closes, or alleys, descending steeply on either side.
Walk it downhill from the castle so the closes open up in front of you. It is the spine of the Old Town, so most of the sights below sit on or just off it.
3. Arthur's Seat
Arthur's Seat is the extinct volcano looming over the city, and climbing it is a popular activity that rewards you with great views over Edinburgh. It is the strongest outdoor option in the city itself.
You have to go round to its far side for the simple ascent. If you are in the city for Beltane on the evening of April 30, the traditional way to finish is to stay awake until dawn and head across to Arthur's Seat to wash your face in the dew.
4. National Museum of Scotland
The National Museum of Scotland is on Chambers Street, half a mile south of High Street. It is an amazing free collection that will absorb a whole afternoon.
Because it is free and large, it works well as an afternoon in its own right rather than something to squeeze between two other stops.
5. Holyrood Palace
Holyrood Palace is sumptuously furnished and is still a royal residence. It sits at the bottom of the Royal Mile, which makes it the natural end point of the walk down from the castle.
Combine it with the Scottish Parliament next door, so you cover the palace and the modern building in one visit to the foot of the Royal Mile.
6. Scottish Parliament
The Scottish Parliament meets in a modern building near the palace, and you can look in on debates. It is a rare chance to watch a working parliament rather than a preserved interior.
Pair it with Holyrood Palace, since the two are next to each other at the bottom of the Royal Mile.
7. Calton Hill
Calton Hill is the miniature Arthur's Seat at the east end of Princes Street, and it is much more accessible for city views. If the full climb up Arthur's Seat does not appeal, this is the easier way to see the city laid out below you.
It is also the setting for the Beltane Fire Festival on the evening of April 30, a fire festival marking the beginning of summer.
8. Princes Street
Princes Street is architecturally dull, but it has a great view of the castle and the Old Town. Treat it as a viewpoint rather than a sight in itself.
It is the spine of the New Town and the easiest place to start a walk that takes in the galleries and Calton Hill.
9. National Gallery of Scotland and the Scottish National Portrait Gallery
The National Gallery of Scotland and the Scottish National Portrait Gallery are side by side midway along Princes Street. Both are part of the city's cultural institutions and sit right on the New Town route.
Visit them as one stop while walking Princes Street, rather than making separate trips.
10. Modern One & Two
Modern One & Two are modern art galleries a mile beyond Haymarket. They extend the gallery trail beyond the centre if you have more time.
They are further out than the Princes Street galleries, so plan them as their own outing rather than adding them to a central walk.
11. Water of Leith
The Water of Leith is a small river that meanders through Edinburgh, providing a peaceful haven from the busy city. Check out the Leith or Stockbridge and Canonmills sections of the route.
It is the best option when you want a quiet hour between sights, and the Stockbridge and Canonmills stretch sits close to the Botanic Gardens.
12. The Botanic Gardens
The Botanic Gardens are in Canonmills. They are a green stop on the same side of the city as the Stockbridge and Canonmills section of the Water of Leith.
Their glasshouses are closed until 2025, so plan around the grounds rather than the glasshouses if you are visiting before then.
13. Royal Yacht Britannia
Royal Yacht Britannia is permanently moored in Leith. It is a substantial sight in its own right and gives you a reason to head down to the waterfront.
Combine it with the Leith section of the Water of Leith walk, since both are in the same part of the city.
14. Craigmillar Castle
Craigmillar Castle is an extensive medieval ruin in the south of the city. It suits anyone who wants a castle in a ruined state rather than a furnished one.
It sits away from the centre, so give it its own half-day rather than trying to fit it between Old Town sights.
15. Edinburgh's festivals
Edinburgh in the summer becomes a festival city, with a huge number of major national and international arts festivals running virtually simultaneously in August, or from the end of July. The Edinburgh International Festival was founded in 1947 and is still seen as more high-brow than its offspring, and some events have preview performances at a much lower price.
The Edinburgh Festival Fringe developed on the fringe of the main International Festival and offers more alternative performances, with an emphasis on comedy and avant-garde. Many shows offer cheaper preview tickets on the first two days of the festival or a 2-for-1 ticket special on two selected dates, and there are also free events across the city grouped mostly under the PBH's Free Fringe or Free Festival.
One important thing to decide when planning a trip is whether you wish to go at festival time, which runs from early August through to mid-September. Hotel rooms in and around the city are noticeably much more expensive then, and you will need to book at least six months in advance.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Edinburgh Castle, booking online in advance if you are visiting in summer. Walk down the Royal Mile, keeping to High Street, the broad upper traffic-free section, and take a close or two on the way down.
Afternoon: Finish the descent at Holyrood Palace and look in on debates at the Scottish Parliament next door. Then head to the National Museum of Scotland on Chambers Street, which will absorb the rest of the afternoon.
Evening: Walk Princes Street for the view of the castle and the Old Town, then climb Calton Hill at the east end for city views. If you are in the city on the evening of April 30, Calton Hill is where the Beltane Fire Festival is held.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit Edinburgh?
It depends on whether you want the festivals. Festival time runs from early August through to mid-September, when hotel rooms in and around the city are noticeably much more expensive and you need to book at least six months in advance. The winter festive season starts a couple of weeks before Christmas and runs up to a week into January.
Do I need to book Edinburgh Castle in advance?
In summer the castle often sells out, so it is best to book online. If you want to attend the Edinburgh Military Tattoo in August, tickets sell out well in advance, though persevering individuals are likely to find one or two tickets still for sale due to cancellations.
What can I do in Edinburgh for free?
The National Museum of Scotland is an amazing free collection that will absorb a whole afternoon. During the Fringe there are many free events across the city, with a donation if you liked the show, grouped mostly under the PBH's Free Fringe or Free Festival. Doors Open Day also throws open historic or important buildings across the country free of charge, usually on the last weekend in September, though you may need to book.
Can I see the city views without climbing Arthur's Seat?
Yes. Calton Hill is the miniature Arthur's Seat at the east end of Princes Street and is much more accessible for city views. Princes Street itself is architecturally dull but has a great view of the castle and the Old Town.
Decide first whether you are coming for the festivals or for the quieter months, then build your days around the Royal Mile and the walks that run off it.