Stand on the shore of Lake Tana at dusk and you will hear drums from the island monasteries carrying across the water while hornbills settle into a small row of trees in the centre of town. Bahir Dar spreads along the lake's southern edge at the exit of the Blue Nile, with wide palm-lined avenues running back from the waterfront.
The city suits travellers who want boat trips to historic island churches, a walk to a waterfall, and easy evenings by the water, and who are willing to arrange transport and guides locally. This guide covers the sights and experiences worth your time, plus how to string them together if you only have one day.
Top things to do in Bahir Dar
1. Lake Tana Monasteries
Some of the world's oldest churches and monasteries sit on islands in Lake Tana, reached by boat tours that can be booked through your hotel, by contacting a guide directly, or through the many touts in the city. The boat trip on the lake is pleasant, and as part of a tour you may also swing by the Head of the Blue Nile, where the river flows out of the lake, with a good chance of spotting a hippo or two.
Entrance at each monastery was 100 birr as of 2016, and tours range from 2 to 12 hours. At some monasteries women are not allowed to enter, so be aware of the traditions and rules of the Ethiopian Orthodox church when you visit. You can do it more cheaply by chartering your own boat and visiting only the islands you want to see; as of 2019, 1500 birr seemed a good price for a custom, private half-day tour for two with a well-rated guide.
2. Blue Nile Falls (Tis Abay)
The falls are reached by taking a bus or car to the town of Tis Abay and walking from there. In the rainy season from May to September there is a decent flow, but in the dry season the falls are minimal and probably not worth the uncomfortable drive over bad gravel roads. If you visit in the rainy season, paths are very muddy, so bring adequate shoes.
There is a 50 birr entrance to the area and an official guide who must accompany you, 200 birr as of July 2019. If you take the bus, ignore anyone in the village who insists the last bus back will be full or has already left and offers you an expensive taxi; buses back are plentiful and the last one leaves at 17:00 or later. A nice alternative to the standard day trip, especially if you would like sunset and sunrise at the falls, is an overnight stay at Blue Nile Camping, right at the top of the waterfall.
3. Palace of Emperor Haile Selassie & Viewpoint over Bahir Dar/Blue Nile
On a hill at the south-east of the city, on the east side of the Blue Nile river along Bezawit Road, this palace is an impressive architectural work of its time. Facing Lake Tana, it provides a picturesque scene of the Blue Nile. You cannot actually go inside the palace, or see it very well.
Note that "tour guides" hang around the site and will tell you a few facts for around 100 birr per person. It is a nice nature hike of sorts, and makes a good pairing with the Martyr's Memorial Monument on the same side of the river.
4. Martyr's Memorial Monument
A huge monument with waterfalls going down to the Blue Nile, on Gonder Road on the east side of the Blue Nile River close to the bridge. It includes a museum with pictures.
Combine it with the Palace of Emperor Haile Selassie & Viewpoint over Bahir Dar/Blue Nile, which lies on the same side of the river, for a half day away from the lakefront.
5. Hornbill trees
In the centre of town, across the street from Ours Guesthouse/Cafe, a small row of trees attracts around 30 or so hornbills every night. Grab a drink or dinner at one of the places on the first floor across the street and enjoy the view.
This is an easy evening stop, best timed for the birds' arrival before dark.
6. Kidus Giorgis church
A church on Giorgis Road where it crosses Lake Street, close to the lake. It is a straightforward stop to fold into a walk between the lakefront and the centre of town.
7. Cycling
Bikes can be rented at Ghion Hotel, which gives you a way to cover the palm-lined avenues and reach the lakefront and city sights under your own steam.
Pair a rental with a morning at the lake or an afternoon ride toward the river side of the city.
8. Enkutatash (Ethiopian New Year)
Held annually on 11 or 12 September, with the place to be on the eve of the holiday on the shore of Lake Tana. Deacons in the monasteries on islands all over the lake make music all night, leaning on canes or sticks so they can stand, chanting and playing instruments such as the drum and sistrum.
Locals seem to pay no attention to the sounds from the churches, but it may be possible for a traveller to creep undetected into a side room and listen from outside the curtain to the drums.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start early with a boat tour to the Lake Tana Monasteries, booking through your hotel or a guide. Ask to include the Head of the Blue Nile on the way, where you may spot hippos. Remember that women are not allowed to enter some monasteries, and entrance at each monastery was 100 birr as of 2016.
Afternoon: Cross to the east side of the Blue Nile for the Martyr's Memorial Monument on Gonder Road, then continue to the Palace of Emperor Haile Selassie & Viewpoint over Bahir Dar/Blue Nile on Bezawit Road for the view over the lake and river. Expect to pay around 100 birr per person if you accept facts from the guides at the palace site.
Evening: Return to the centre of town and take a first-floor table across the street from Ours Guesthouse/Cafe to watch the hornbills come in to roost, then walk down to the shore of Lake Tana.
Frequently asked questions
How do I arrange a boat tour to the Lake Tana Monasteries?
Tours can be booked through your hotel, by contacting a guide directly, or through the many touts in the city. They range from 2 to 12 hours, and operators can organise a boat tour for half a day plus a trip to the Blue Nile Falls for the other half, which should cost no more than 400 birr per person. Chartering your own boat lets you choose the islands you want to see.
When is the best time to visit the Blue Nile Falls?
In the rainy season, from May to September, there is a decent flow. In the dry season the falls are minimal and probably not worth the drive over bad gravel roads. If you go in the rainy season, expect deep mud and bring adequate shoes.
Can I visit the monasteries as a woman?
At some of the monasteries, women are not allowed to enter. Be cautious and aware of the traditions and rules of the Ethiopian Orthodox church when you visit.
What is there to do in the evening in the centre of town?
Head to the small row of trees across the street from Ours Guesthouse/Cafe, where around 30 or so hornbills gather every night, and take a drink or dinner at one of the first-floor places across the street. On the eve of Enkutatash on 11 or 12 September, the place to be is on the shore of Lake Tana for the all-night music from the island monasteries.
Use this guide to pick your boat tour, your waterfall day and your evening by the lake, and start planning your trip to Bahir Dar.