Stand on the Pont de les Peixateries Velles and the Onyar below you is a thin ribbon between tall houses painted in ochres and rust reds, their reflections broken by the metal lattice of the bridge itself. Look up and the old town climbs away to the east, a stack of stone roofs, bell towers and the long flight of steps to the cathedral. This is the Girona you have seen in photographs, and it is only a few minutes' walk from the modern streets on the far bank.
The city suits travellers who like to cover ground on foot, who are happy to climb stairs for a view, and who would rather spend an afternoon in a Romanesque cloister or a small museum than queue for an attraction. It also works well as a day trip from Barcelona, though the old quarter rewards more time than that.
This guide covers the main sights in and around the old town, the museums that share tickets with them, and a one-day plan that links the best of them together. Everything named here comes from the source material, so you can plan around what is actually there.
Top things to do in Girona
1. Catedral de Girona
The Cathedral of Saint Mary of Girona is the city's defining building, approached by a long broad flight of stairs from Carrer de la Força. Construction began in the 11th century in Romanesque style, but most of the interior is Gothic from the 13th century, including a nave 23 metres wide. The west facade and the approach stairs are 17th-century Baroque. In the Treasury and Museum you can see the Tapestry of Creation, which dates from around 1100.
If the main staircase looks daunting, approach from the side streets instead. Your ticket also includes Basílica de Sant Feliu, and you can pay a little more to add the Museu d'Art.
2. Basílica de Sant Feliu
This was the city's principal church before the present cathedral was built. Construction ran from the 12th century until the 17th, so you will see Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque work in the same building. Inside are eight Roman and early Christian sarcophagi from the 3rd and 4th centuries, along with the Gothic tomb of Narcissus of Girona, an early bishop.
It is covered by the same ticket as the cathedral, so visit the two together rather than paying twice. It sits on Carrer Trasfigueres, a short walk from the cathedral steps.
3. El Passeig de la Muralla
The old fortifications are among the most rewarding things to do in Girona. The city wall was originally a Roman military construction built in the 1st century BC, thoroughly rebuilt in the second half of the 14th century, and the surviving sections are split between a small stretch north of the old town and a much larger stretch to the east and south that was reconstructed between 1983 and 2003. You can walk the walls and climb the towers for panoramic views of the city and the surrounding countryside.
The walking route following the walls is known as el Passeig de la Muralla. The walls sweep round in an arc from the Faculty of Law to the south, past Torre Gironella and Torre de Sant Domènec, and on to Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants to the north, so you can use the walk to link several sights in one stretch.
4. Museu d'Art
Housed in the former episcopal palace on the south flank of the cathedral, the Museu d'Art holds an extensive collection that is mostly medieval and Renaissance. It is the natural companion to a cathedral visit, since the two are next to each other and a combined ticket is available.
Note that its hours are shorter than the cathedral's, with afternoons only on Tuesday to Thursday and mornings only from Friday to Sunday, so plan it for the right part of the day.
5. Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants
This is an 11th and 12th century Romanesque monastery with a peaceful cloister, and it now houses the Archaeology Museum. The small archaeology display is rather lost in the great space of the building, but the cloister itself is the reason to come.
It sits at the northern end of the city walls, so it fits neatly at the end of a walk along el Passeig de la Muralla.
6. Museu d'Història dels Jueus
Girona had a large Jewish community for centuries until their persecution and expulsion in 1492, and this small but packed museum on Carrer de la Força tells their story. It is one of the most focused stops in the old town.
The museum sits on the same street as the foot of the cathedral steps, so it combines easily with a visit to the cathedral or the Museu d'Història de Girona.
7. Banys Arabs
This bathhouse was built in Romanesque style in 1194, more than 400 years after the Muslim rulers were ousted from the city; the "Arab" name only stuck in the 19th century. The building has been restored, though you cannot bathe in it.
It is a small, quick visit on Carrer del Rei Ferran el Catòlic, and a good one to slot in between larger sights rather than making it a destination in itself.
8. Museu d'Història de Girona
This large display of the city's history is housed in an 18th-century convent on Carrer de la Força, by the foot of the cathedral steps. Entrance to temporary exhibitions is always free.
Because it sits right where the cathedral stairs begin, it is an easy addition to a morning in the old town. It is also free on the first Sunday of each month.
9. Pont de les Peixateries Velles
This metal lattice pedestrian bridge over the Onyar was designed by Gustave Eiffel, and it gives a good view of the houses huddled along the river. It is the classic view of Girona from the water.
In summer the river dries to a smelly trickle, so do not build your expectations around a full river. The bridge is a natural crossing point between the old town and the new town squares.
10. Plaça de la Independència
This is the focal point of the New Town west of the river, lined by restaurants and bars. It is the busiest and best-known square in the city, and the obvious place to stop for a meal or a drink after crossing the river.
Pair it with the Pont de les Peixateries Velles, which brings you across the Onyar from the old town directly into this part of the city.
11. Museu del Cinema
The Museu del Cinema traces the history of cinema to the present day. It is a well-contained visit on Carrer de la Sèquia and a good option if you want something other than churches and medieval stone.
Opposite it on Carrer de l'Obra is Santa Susanna del Mercadal, a parish church that is Gothic from around 1600 but was almost completely rebuilt in 1940, so you can see both in one stop.
12. Casa Masó
Rafael Masó i Valentí was an outstanding Catalan architect and part of the Noucentisme reaction against Modernisme. He was born in this house, a knock-through of four riverfront properties, and redesigned it between 1912 and 1919.
Visits are by pre-booked guided tour only, so arrange this before you travel rather than turning up. It stands on the riverbank west of the Jewish museum.
13. Torre Gironella
Torre Gironella is referred to as a castle, but it is simply a watchtower at the highest point of the city walls, with a good view of the town and the gardens below. It is one of the landmarks along the wall walk, midway between the southern and northern ends.
Treat it as a high point of the el Passeig de la Muralla route rather than a separate trip, and continue on to Torre de Sant Domènec and Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants.
14. Parc de la Devesa
Near the river confluence, the Parc de la Devesa is wooded and crossed by cycle and walking paths. It is the place to go when you want shade and open ground rather than streets and staircases.
It works well as a break in a long walking day, and it connects to the city's longer-distance cycle routes if you have brought or hired a bike.
15. Castell de Montjuïc
These are the crumbling remnants of a fortress built from 1653 to keep the French at bay, which proved no match for Napoleon and was abandoned after 1814. The hill was the Jewish cemetery, and after the expulsion of 1492 most of the tombstones were pilfered for masonry, though several survive in museums. There is nothing to see of the cemetery now.
You would only come up here for the view, and the practical way to do it is by taking Bus L1.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start on Carrer de la Força and climb the broad stairs to the Catedral de Girona, timing your visit for the morning opening. See the Treasury and Museum and the Tapestry of Creation, then use the same ticket for the Basílica de Sant Feliu nearby. If you have time before lunch, step into the Museu d'Història de Girona at the foot of the cathedral steps, or the Museu d'Art on the cathedral's south flank.
Afternoon. Walk el Passeig de la Muralla, climbing the towers and pausing at Torre Gironella for the view over the town and gardens, then following the walls north to Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants and its cloister. On the way back down, stop at the Banys Arabs and the Museu d'Història dels Jueus, both close to the old town streets.
Evening. Cross the Onyar on the Pont de les Peixateries Velles for the view of the houses along the river, then settle into Plaça de la Independència for dinner, where the restaurants and bars line the square. If you still have energy, the Museu del Cinema and Santa Susanna del Mercadal are a short walk away, though check the closing times before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to book Casa Masó in advance?
Yes. Casa Masó can only be visited by pre-booked guided tour, so arrange it before you arrive rather than expecting to walk in.
Can I visit the cathedral and Sant Feliu on one ticket?
Yes. The cathedral ticket includes the Treasury and Museum and nearby Sant Feliu, and you can pay extra to include the Museu d'Art as well.
What is the best way to see the old fortifications?
Walk el Passeig de la Muralla, the route that follows the walls around the old city. You can walk the walls and climb the towers, and the route links Torre Gironella, Torre de Sant Domènec and Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants.
Is the river always full?
No. In summer the Onyar dries to a smelly trickle, so the view from the Pont de les Peixateries Velles varies with the season.
Pick your dates, check the opening times for the cathedral, the museums and Casa Masó, and start building your days around the old town on foot.