Stand on the Plaza del Triunfo at dusk and you can see three of the city's great monuments at once: the Cathedral, La Giralda and the Real Alcázar, with the Archivo General de Indias a few steps away. Seville's old town is compact enough to cross on foot, and the Guadalquivir curves past it to the west.
This guide suits anyone planning a first visit, whether you have a long weekend or a single day. It covers the major landmarks, the palaces and museums worth your time, and the squares and parks that make the city pleasant to walk through.
Be aware that summers are hot, with daily maximums routinely above 35 °C in July and August. Plan indoor visits and shaded gardens for the middle of the day, and save the open squares for the cooler hours.
Top things to do in Seville
1. Cathedral (Catedral de Sevilla)
This huge 15th-century church stands on the site of the former great mosque, with a central nave rising to 37 m and a richly decorated interior. An ornate canopy and statue mark the final resting place of Christopher Columbus.
Cathedral admission includes La Giralda, the minaret that is now the bell tower; you ascend 34 ramps, tallied on the wall, then a last short flight of steps to the viewing terrace. If there is a queue for tickets, go to the nearby Church of Salvador and buy a combi ticket there instead.
2. Real Alcázar
A beautiful palace in Mudéjar style, built in the 12th century by the Almohad Caliphs and greatly remodelled and extended in the 14th century by Pedro I the Cruel. Its myriad rooms, extravagant architecture and lavish gardens, including a maze, with many courtyards and ponds, make it a fascinating place to visit. The room where Columbus's journey across the Atlantic was planned has his coat of arms embroidered on the wall.
Enter from Plaza del Triunfo; the tourist entrance, the Lion's Gate, is on the side facing the cathedral and has a large image of a lion above it. It gets busy in high season, so buy tickets online in advance and only from the official website. In the heat of summer the palace is a cool retreat, and there are night tours from March to October.
3. Church of Salvador (Iglesia del Salvador)
All of its Rococo altarpieces were cleaned, and excavations revealed remains from an Islamic mosque and earlier Christian churches, now accessible in the crypt. Unless you like massive cathedrals, the effect here is much more impressive.
It is also the practical alternative when the Cathedral ticket queue is long, since you can buy a combi ticket covering both. Combine the two in one visit, as they are close to each other.
4. Barrio Santa Cruz
The old Jewish Quarter, made up of winding narrow lanes just east of the cathedral and north of the Alcázar. It is the most charming part of the city, with lots of bars and eating places, though it is also the most touristy.
Walk it after visiting the Cathedral or the Alcázar, since both sit at its edge, and use it for a meal rather than as a separate excursion.
5. Plaza de España
The site of the Spanish pavilion from the 1929 exhibition, with a semi-circle of little ceramic maps of every region of Spain plus images of them or their history. It was also used in the filming of the Star Wars prequels.
Visit early in the morning on a weekday, or right before it closes, officially at 22:00 but likely half an hour later, to see it completely empty and rather eerie. It sits near Parque María Luisa, so pair the two.
6. Parque María Luisa
Built for the 1929 Ibero-American World's Fair and now landscaped with attractive monuments and museums. It is near the Plaza de España and borders the historic centre to the south, just behind the Real Fábrica de Tabacos.
Use it as a shaded break between the palace visits and the river, particularly in the warmer months.
7. Archivo General de Indias (General Archive of the Indies)
This Renaissance building next to the Alcázar houses extensive archives relating to the Spanish conquest of the Americas and is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The collection includes the diaries of Columbus, and the archive hosts rotating special exhibits. Admission is free.
It is closed on Mondays, so fit it into another day. Combine it with the Cathedral and Alcázar, which are all within a few steps of each other on Avenida de la Constitución.
8. Hospital de los Venerables
A 17th-century retirement home and hospital for aged and sickly retired priests, restored to preserve an example of Andalusian architecture at its very best. It includes a resplendent Baroque chapel that is highly recommended, as well as the Santa Rufina painted by Diego Velázquez.
It is in the Barrio Santa Cruz, so it fits naturally into a walk through those lanes. Admission is €10 with an audio guide.
9. Metropol Parasol
An enormous wooden structure in the form of giant mushrooms, known to locals as 'las setas', covering the Central Market and the Antiquarium. The top level contains a restaurant and provides some of the best views of Seville.
It is open daily from 09:30 to 23:30 and admission is €15. Go up late in the day for the views, and note the underground Antiquarium, which displays Roman remains in situ.
10. Casa de Pilatos
A 16th-century palace generally thought to be one of the best in the city. It is open daily from 09:00 to 18:00 from November to March and 09:00 to 19:00 from April to October, with admission at €8 and free on Mondays after 15:00.
Take advantage of the Monday afternoon free entry if your schedule allows, and pair it with the nearby Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija.
11. Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija
Considered the best paved house-palace in Europe owing to its collection of Roman mosaics and marble floors in the opus sectile geometric style, which paved practically the whole of the ground floor. There is also a collection of well parapets, vases, amphorae, columns and sculptures, and on the upper floor the residences previously inhabited by the Countess and her descendants, filled with ornaments, furniture and paintings.
Admission is €14. It is on Calle Cuna, a short walk from Casa de Pilatos, so see the two palaces together.
12. Palacio de Las Dueñas
A palace belonging to the House of Alba, built in the 15th century with Renaissance architecture and Gothic-Mudéjar influences. The poet Antonio Machado was born here in 1875, and it is said that Amerigo Vespucci married in the chapel at the beginning of the 16th century. The palace holds a great collection of paintings, ceramics, antique furniture, sculptures, Flemish tapestries and mosaics.
It is in the historical centre near Las Setas, so combine the two. Admission is €10 with an audio guide, and reduced prices are available on request.
13. Torre del Oro
A 13th-century tower, the top of which is rumored to have once been covered in gold. It now houses the local maritime museum, and admission is €3 for adults, with an audioguide for €2.
It stands on Paseo de Cristóbal Colón by the river, so walk there along the Guadalquivir after the Cathedral and Archivo, which are just inland.
14. Real Fábrica de Tabacos
The main building of the University of Seville was once the Tobacco Factory, constructed between 1728 and 1771, with a triangular façade ending in a statue of La Fama over the main entrance. Inside you find impressive stairways, fountains and patios, and it was the setting for the first act of Bizet's opera Carmen.
It is open during term time only, Monday to Friday 10:00 to 20:00 and Saturday 10:00 to 14:00. The building is used for academic purposes, so do not venture into closed rooms or disrupt lectures.
15. Alameda de Hercules
An authentic and less touristy plaza with local food opportunities. The columns of La Alameda de Hércules are among the Roman features still visible in the city.
Come here for a meal away from the busiest lanes of the old town, and note the Roman columns as you pass.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Cathedral (Catedral de Sevilla) as early as you can, and climb La Giralda while you are there. If the ticket queue is long, buy a combi ticket at the Church of Salvador instead. Then walk the short distance to the Archivo General de Indias, next to the Alcázar, remembering it is closed on Mondays.
Afternoon: Spend the middle of the day in the Real Alcázar, entering from Plaza del Triunfo, where the gardens and courtyards offer shade. Afterwards, walk through the Barrio Santa Cruz and stop at the Hospital de los Venerables for its Baroque chapel and the Velázquez painting.
Evening: Head to the Torre del Oro on the river, then continue to the Metropol Parasol and go up to the top level for the views before it closes at 23:30. If you still have energy, the Plaza de España is at its emptiest right before closing.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time of day to visit the Plaza de España?
Visit early in the morning on a weekday, or right before it closes, officially at 22:00 but likely half an hour later, when it is completely empty and rather eerie.
How do I avoid the ticket queue at the Cathedral?
If there is a queue for tickets, go to the nearby Church of Salvador and buy a combi ticket there. Cathedral admission includes La Giralda.
Which day should I avoid for the Archivo General de Indias?
The archive is closed on Mondays. On other days it opens Tuesday to Saturday 09:30 to 17:00 and Sunday and public holidays 10:00 to 14:00, with admission free.
Is the Real Alcázar a good place to escape the summer heat?
Yes. In the heat of summer the palace is a cool retreat from the sun's glare, and there are night tours from March to October. Buy tickets online in advance, and only from the official website.
Decide your dates, book the Alcázar and Cathedral tickets ahead, and build the rest of your days around the shaded hours.