Stand on the Luxor corniche at sunset and the city shows you both of its halves at once: the temple columns of Luxor Temple lit on the bank in front of you, and across the River Nile the dark line of the West Bank, where the Theban Necropolis holds the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens. Luxor is often described as the world's greatest open-air museum, and the ruins of the Karnak and Luxor temple complexes stand within the modern city itself.
This guide suits travellers who want tombs, temples and river time rather than resort time. It covers the East Bank monuments, the West Bank sites, and the simple pleasures the city does well: a felucca on the Nile, a bicycle around Ancient Thebes, a balloon at dawn.
Where the sources do not state a detail, none is given.
1. The Valley of the Kings
One of the most famous archaeological sites in Egypt and a major attraction in Luxor, the valley contains the tombs of many New Kingdom pharaohs, including Tutankhamun, Seti I and Ramses VI. Most tombs feature colourful wall paintings and hieroglyphic inscriptions that have survived for thousands of years.
Arrive early in the morning, especially in summer, as temperatures can become extremely high by midday. A standard entrance ticket usually includes access to several tombs, while some special tombs require additional tickets. Photography policies may vary, so check current regulations before entering.
2. The temple complex of Karnak
Karnak stands within the modern city on the East Bank, and its great temple to Amun was the most important temple of Egypt until the end of antiquity. The site is also where the shrine of the god Osiris Ptah Neb, dating to the 25th dynasty, was discovered in 2018.
Pair it with the temple complex of Luxor on the same East Bank day, and keep in mind that the statue of the god was transferred from Karnak during the Opet Festival in antiquity, which links the two temples in the city's religious history.
3. The temple complex of Luxor
Luxor Temple sits in the heart of the modern city. Part of it was converted from a church to a mosque following the Muslim conquest of Egypt, and that mosque is known today as the Abu Haggag Mosque.
Because the temple is in the middle of the city, it works well as an evening stop after a day on the West Bank, or as the second half of an East Bank morning with Karnak.
4. Deir el-Bahari of Queen Hatshepsut
On the West Bank, the temple of Hatshepsut became known as Deir el-Bahri, "the northern monastery", after Christian monks of the Roman Empire established monasteries among the ancient monuments. In 2019, thirty well-preserved wooden coffins around 3,000 years old were unearthed in front of the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut in El-Assasif Cemetery.
It is one of the West Bank sites best visited as part of a morning circuit, before the heat builds.
5. The Valley of the Queens
The monuments, temples and tombs of the West Bank Theban Necropolis include the Valley of the Queens, immediately opposite the city across the River Nile.
Treat it as part of a wider West Bank day rather than a standalone trip, since it sits among the other tombs and temples you will want to see.
6. Medinet Habu
Medinet Habu is one of the West Bank monuments of the Theban Necropolis, listed among the sites to see across the river from Luxor.
Combine it with the other West Bank stops on the same day, and consider reaching the West Bank by ferry from the East Bank.
7. The Tombs of the Nobles
The Tombs of the Nobles form part of the West Bank Necropolis.
These tombs reward a slower pace than the big sites, so leave time for them within your West Bank day rather than rushing between stops.
8. The Ramesseum Temple
The Ramesseum Temple is one of the West Bank monuments of the Theban Necropolis, across the Nile from the modern city.
It fits naturally into a West Bank itinerary alongside Medinet Habu and the Tombs of the Nobles.
9. Colossi of Memnon
The Colossi of Memnon are among the West Bank sites of the Theban Necropolis, standing on the same side of the river as the tombs and temples.
Because they are on the West Bank circuit, they are easy to include on the same day as Deir el-Bahari and the Valley of the Kings.
10. Malkata
Malkata is listed among the West Bank sites of Luxor, part of the monuments of the Theban Necropolis.
Add it to a West Bank day if you have the time, and plan your transport for the whole circuit rather than site by site.
11. Luxor and Mummification museums
The Luxor and Mummification museums are on the East Bank, listed among the city's sights.
They make a good indoor counterpart to a dusty day of tombs and temples, and sit on the same bank as Karnak and Luxor Temple.
12. Hot air balloon rides
Balloon flights run in the morning for sunrise or in the evening for sunset. Each flight lasts at least 45 minutes, weather permitting. Be sure to know what is included and what is not: sunset tours do not generally include the sunset, supposedly depending on the wind. It is still an impressive and inexpensive ride even without sunrise.
Note that this is not a romantic ride with only a few people, as operators often fit 21 people into the basket. Ask around at your accommodation and travel offices for the best deal, and pay attention to the safety record mentioned on Wikipedia, which is reported to be bad.
13. A felucca ride on the Nile
A local felucca ride just before sunset is one of the simplest ways to end a day in Luxor. It should not cost you more than about LE30 for one person per hour.
You can also take a felucca cruise on the Nile for a two-day trip to Aswan, though the reverse trip is recommended because of river currents.
14. Hire a bicycle and ride around Ancient Thebes
Hiring a bicycle lets you ride around Ancient Thebes, which takes less than 15 minutes.
It is a low-cost way to cover ground between sites, and pairs well with a West Bank day when you want to move at your own pace.
15. Hire a donkey, horse or camel on the West Bank
You can hire a donkey, horse or camel to ride around Luxor's West Bank. Pharaoh's Stables, just a short walk from the ferry terminal, will take you to places where the big coaches cannot go, and has horses for beginners to experienced riders.
The sunset ride and Nile ride are the ones most often recommended. If you prefer a cruise ship instead, book a two- to three-night trip between Luxor and Aswan by tracking down ships along the pier before noon; most have a reception at the entrance and you can walk in, and prices can start at around US$40 per night, which is cheaper than going through an agent or booking online.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start early at the Valley of the Kings, where arriving in the morning matters most because temperatures can become extremely high by midday. Continue on the West Bank with Deir el-Bahari of Queen Hatshepsut and the Colossi of Memnon.
Afternoon: Cross back to the East Bank and visit the temple complex of Karnak, then the temple complex of Luxor. If the heat has worn you down, the Luxor and Mummification museums are an indoor alternative on the same bank.
Evening: Take a felucca ride on the Nile just before sunset, which should not cost more than about LE30 for one person per hour. If you would rather see the city from above, a hot air balloon ride is the other option, though sunset tours do not generally include the sunset.
When should I visit the Valley of the Kings?
Arrive early in the morning, especially during summer, as temperatures can become extremely high by midday.
Does one ticket cover all the tombs in the Valley of the Kings?
A standard entrance ticket usually includes access to several tombs, while some special tombs require additional tickets. Photography policies may vary, so check current regulations before entering.
How much should a felucca ride cost?
A local felucca ride just before sunset should not cost you more than about LE30 for one person per hour.
What should I know before booking a hot air balloon ride?
Flights last at least 45 minutes, weather permitting, and sunset tours do not generally include the sunset. Operators often fit 21 people into the basket, and the safety record reported on Wikipedia is bad. Ask around at your accommodation and travel offices for the best deal.
Decide how many days you can give to the East Bank and the West Bank, then start planning around an early Valley of the Kings morning and a Nile sunset.