Stand on the Malecón de Tachina and the Rio Esmeraldas opens out below you, with the city of Esmeraldas on the far bank and the coastal topography laid out in a single view. It is not the prettiest spot in the province, but it explains the place in a way a beach cannot.
Esmeraldas suits travellers who are passing through the province and want a few real stops rather than a resort itinerary: a small regional museum, a municipal beach with a boardwalk and food court, and a fishing village down the coast where the wildlife does the talking.
This guide covers the sights and experiences the sources support, in the order worth doing them, plus a one-day plan that strings them together.
Top things to do in Esmeraldas
1. Súa
Súa is an important fishing village with several species of seabirds, and basic whale watching tours are offered from June to September. It is the strongest reason to leave the city for a day.
Time your visit to the whale watching season if that is what you are coming for, and otherwise go for the birds and the working village itself.
2. Museo Regional de Arqueologia
This museum on Piedrahita 316 traces the history and culture of the area, with a special focus on blacks. It gives context to everything else you will see in the province.
It is a compact stop, so pair it with the rest of your time in the city rather than building a day around it.
3. Playa de las Palmas
Esmeraldas's municipal beach, with a boardwalk and a food court. Oil tankers are often offshore, but it is a beach, and the boardwalk and food court make it an easy place to spend a few hours.
Come for the food court as much as the sand, and expect the tankers on the horizon.
4. Malecón de Tachina
A little overlook on the Rio Esmeraldas, in the town of Tachina across the river from Esmeraldas. It is not the prettiest spot, but it gives you an interesting view of the coastal topography and the city of Esmeraldas.
Cross the river to Tachina for it, and treat it as a viewpoint rather than a destination in itself.
If you only have one day
Morning: Cross the river to Tachina and start at the Malecón de Tachina for the view over the Rio Esmeraldas and back toward the city.
Afternoon: Return to the city and visit the Museo Regional de Arqueologia on Piedrahita 316, then head to Playa de las Palmas for the boardwalk and the food court.
Evening: If you have the time and the season is right, Súa and its whale watching tours from June to September are the one thing worth stretching the day for.
Frequently asked questions
When can you go whale watching near Esmeraldas?
Basic whale watching tours are offered from Súa from June to September.
What is there to see in Súa?
Súa is an important fishing village with several species of seabirds, and it is also where the whale watching tours are offered.
Is Playa de las Palmas worth visiting?
It is the municipal beach, with a boardwalk and a food court. Oil tankers are often offshore, but it is a beach.
What does the Museo Regional de Arqueologia cover?
It traces the history and culture of the area, with a special focus on blacks, and it is on Piedrahita 316.
Decide which of these four stops matters most to you, check the season for Súa, and start planning your days around it.