Stand on the edge of Parque Vicente Léon in the late afternoon and the cathedral's pumice altar catches the last of the light while the wind coming off the snowclad heights pushes through the square. Latacunga sits high on a cold, windy plateau, and that chill is part of what you pack for.
The city suits travellers who want a working Andean town rather than a polished colonial set piece, and who are willing to use it as a base for the volcano and the surrounding mountains. Its historic downtown, its twice-yearly festival and its access to guided climbs are the main reasons to stop.
This guide covers the sights in the city centre, the outdoor options organised from Guayaquil street, and how to string them together if you have a single day.
Top things to do in Latacunga
1. Parque Vicente Léon
This is the anchor of the city centre and the natural place to start. The cathedral stands in the square, dates from the 17th century, and contains an altar made from pumice.
Combine it with the buildings immediately beside it rather than treating it as a separate stop. The Palacio municipal, also made from pumice, sits next to the cathedral, and the square is where the statue of Dr. Vicente Leon stands.
2. La Fiesta de la Mama Negra
Latacunga's best-known traditional festival takes place twice a year and blends indigenous, Spanish and African influences. The first is organised in September by the people from the markets "La Merced y Del Salto" in honour of the Virgin of Mercy, Virgen de la Merced, who is venerated because she allegedly stopped the Cotopaxi Volcano eruption in 1742. Inhabitants call her Abogada y patrona del volcan, meaning "advocate and patron of the volcano".
The second celebration is held every year on Ecuador's Independence Day, with a parade that includes well-known people, the army, clergy and others. Both fiestas feature a lengthy parade of costumed cultural characters, with the 'mama negra' passing last as the culmination, a person with their face painted black riding a horse and spraying the crowd with milk. Be aware that homemade strong alcoholic drinks are freely passed along the parade route, which can be chaotic, closes the road at times and makes the route impassable.
3. Saint Francis's church
This is the first church built in the city and one of the prominent buildings of the historic downtown, which extends about 30 squares.
Fold it into a walking loop of the centre rather than a special trip, since the downtown's other notable buildings are close at hand.
4. The municipal palace
Built with pumice stone in a neoclassical style, the municipal palace is one of the downtown buildings worth seeking out. Pumice is the material that recurs across Latacunga's architecture, a direct result of the local volcanic activity that has also shaped the town's history.
Look at it alongside the cathedral and the Palacio municipal in Parque Vicente Léon so you can compare how the same stone is used across the centre.
5. The Main Square and the statue of Dr. Vicente Leon
The Main Square is where the statue of Dr. Vicente Leon stands, and it is one of the prominent downtown sights. It works best as a pause between the churches and civic buildings rather than a destination on its own.
Use it as a meeting point before heading out to the agencies on Guayaquil street.
6. Guided mountaineering from Guayaquil street
Latacunga's position near the Cotopaxi makes it a practical base for mountaineering, and most of the agencies that organise guided climbs are on Guayaquil street. They also offer tours to Chimborazo and Quilotoa, and prices for expeditions are cheaper than those organised from Quito.
Go in person to compare operators before committing, and allow time in your schedule for acclimatisation given the altitude of the city itself.
7. Reserva Ecológica Los Illinizas (Iliniza)
The reserve allows hiking and climbing, and most visitors enter it by the small Chaupi village. Most people spend a night in the Refugio Nuevos Horizontes and then scramble to the Illiniza Norte summit at 5,126 m.
The Illiniza Sur summit at 5,248 m offers much more technical climbing routes, so choose your objective to match your experience. Arrange this through one of the Guayaquil street agencies rather than setting out independently.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start in Parque Vicente Léon, where you can see the cathedral with its pumice altar and the Palacio municipal beside it. Walk from there to Saint Francis's church, the first church built in the city, then continue to the municipal palace and the Main Square with its statue of Dr. Vicente Leon.
Afternoon: Head to Guayaquil street to talk to the mountaineering agencies about a guided climb or a tour to Chimborazo or Quilotoa, and to ask about arrangements for the Reserva Ecológica Los Illinizas (Iliniza) if you are extending your stay. If you are not climbing, use the afternoon to finish the downtown on foot, since the historic centre extends about 30 squares.
Evening: Eat chugchucaras, empanadas, plantains, popcorn and tostado, the foods Latacunga is most noted for, and try ají, the condiment that ranges from mild to very spicy depending on how it is prepared. Dress warmly for the walk back, as the city's climate is cold and windy.
Frequently asked questions
When is La Fiesta de la Mama Negra held?
It takes place twice a year. The first is organised in September by the people from the markets "La Merced y Del Salto" in honour of the Virgin of Mercy, Virgen de la Merced. The second is celebrated every year on Ecuador's Independence Day.
Can you arrange a climb or trek from Latacunga itself?
Yes. Most of the agencies that organise guided climbs are on Guayaquil street, and they offer tours to Chimborazo and Quilotoa as well. Prices for expeditions are cheaper than those organised from Quito.
What should you expect from the weather?
The climate is cold and windy, due to the neighbouring snowclad heights and the barren, pumice-covered tableland on which the city stands. Pack accordingly, especially for early starts and for the reserve.
What food is Latacunga known for?
Its most noted food is chugchucaras, empanadas, plantains, popcorn and tostado, a type of toasted corn. Food is often mixed with ají, a condiment that can be mild to very spicy depending on its preparation.
Decide whether your trip is a downtown day or a mountain one, then start planning around the festival dates and the Guayaquil street agencies.