Stand at the top of the Rundetårn on a clear morning and the whole city arranges itself below you: the spire of Frederikskirken to one side, the harbour and the flat roof of Christiansborg to the other, and the Øresund strait beyond. It is the quickest way to understand how compact central Copenhagen really is, and how much of it you can cover on foot.
Copenhagen suits travellers who like their sightseeing mixed with walking, cycling and long pauses. The historic core around Indre By holds the palaces, museums and the Round Tower within easy reach of each other, while Christianshavn and the harbourfront reward a short trip across the water. This guide covers the principal sights and experiences named in the source material, with practical notes on how to combine them.
Top things to do in Copenhagen
1. Rundetårn (the Round Tower)
An excellent start to any visit is the climb up the unique 7.5-turn helical corridor to the observation platform. One of Copenhagen's most iconic buildings, it sits right in the middle of the city and gives you excellent views over the rooftops.
Do it early, before you set out on foot for the day, so you can orient yourself against the landmarks you plan to visit. It pairs naturally with the Indre By sights below, all of which are close at hand.
2. Amalienborg
The four identical classicist palaces of Amalienborg make up the main residence of the Danish royal family. The octagonal courtyard in the centre is open to the public and guarded by the ceremonial Royal Guard, and there is a small royal museum on the premises.
The relief of the guard takes place every day at noon and is a highlight for any royalist visiting the city. Time your visit around it, then continue on foot through the surrounding streets of Frederiksstaden.
3. Rosenborg Palace
Rosenborg Palace is a small but pretty renaissance palace, surrounded by the lovely King's Garden, one of the most lively parks of the city. The palace serves both as a museum of royal history and as a home for the crown jewels.
Because the King's Garden is at its best in good weather, combine the two rather than treating the palace as a quick indoor stop.
4. Church of Our Saviour
Head to Christianshavn for a climb up the circular stairs on the outside of the church spire. It is regarded as something of a test of manhood to climb up and touch the globe on the summit, nearly 100 m up in the air.
Since you are already in the area, cross to the opposite side of the street afterwards to Christiania.
5. Christiania
Christiania is a self-governing community that has been squatting on an old naval area since the 1970s. Its inventive, brightly coloured, home-built houses are spectacular, as is the relaxed atmosphere.
It sits directly opposite the Church of Our Saviour, so the two make an obvious pairing. Continue due south afterwards, where the old, crooked, brightly coloured buildings and soothing canals lined with masted ships make an excellent place to keep strolling.
6. Nationalmuseet
A visit to the Nationalmuseet in Indre By is a must-do for the many well-arranged exhibits relating to the Danish past and modern culture. In practice this means everything from Danish prehistory, through the Viking Age, into the modern period.
Note that entrance to many museums is free once a week, mainly on Wednesdays, so check the day before you commit. Principal attractions are well signed in English, often German too.
7. Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek
For a hard-to-beat appreciation of Classical and Near Eastern art, visit the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, which also has an extensive section devoted to 19th-century French and Danish art. The Winter Garden inside is a beautiful and very warm place to rest your legs on a rainy day.
It sits in the centre, in the Indre By area, so it slots easily into a day of central sightseeing.
8. Danish National Gallery (Statens Museum for Kunst)
A natural starting point for the arts in Copenhagen, with paintings by Danish artists from the Golden Age alongside major international names. Entry is between 95 and 120 kr.
Across the Royal Gardens lies the David Collection, Scandinavia's biggest collection of Islamic art, with free entrance. It is a ten-minute walk through the Royal Gardens, but you may need to know the address beforehand, since the museum is a bit of a hidden treasure.
9. Frederikskirken (the Marble Church)
Among the fine examples of classical architecture in the city is the massive dome of the Frederikskirken, colloquially known as the Marble Church. The dome, with a span of 31 meters, is one of the largest in northern Europe.
It is in the Indre By area, as is the impressive City Hall, so the two can be taken in on the same central walk.
10. Copenhagen Zoo
A popular and well-renowned institution on Frederiksberg, counting among both the best and oldest zoos in Europe. It is a sensible choice if you are travelling with children.
For a different perspective on the same subject, the Zoology Museum on Østerbro offers stationary animals instead.
11. Botanical Gardens
The Botanical Gardens are an excellent place for a stroll in the beautiful park, even if you are not botanically inclined. The classical palm house is a nice place to relax if it is cold outside.
They sit opposite the Geological Museum, which the University of Copenhagen runs, so the two are easy to combine. The Geological Museum's dinosaur fossils, moon rock and glow-in-the-dark minerals are pitched at even the most school-weary child.
12. Tycho Brahe Planetarium
In poor weather, the Tycho Brahe Planetarium on Vesterbro is another option. It is part planetarium with an astronomy exhibition and part omnimax theatre, where science films are usually screened.
Keep it in reserve as a wet-afternoon substitute rather than a fixed stop.
13. Museum of Copenhagen
If you want something more localised than the national collections, the Museum of Copenhagen in Vesterbro has exhibitions on the city's development since the Middle Ages.
It works well as a counterpart to the Nationalmuseet: one tells the story of Denmark, the other the story of the city you are walking through.
14. Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Arguably the best and most visited museum in Denmark, in northern Zealand with a panoramic view across the Øresund. The museum frames the sculpture park facing the sea, and the interaction between art, nature and the museum architecture is quite unique.
This is a day trip rather than a city stop, so give it its own half-day and do not try to squeeze it between central sights.
15. Dragør
For a live version of old Denmark, visit the old town of the tiny fishing hamlet of Dragør on the southern tip of Amager, with its fantastic old yellow buildings and cobblestone streets.
It is a quieter alternative to the museum route and pairs well with a slow afternoon rather than a tightly scheduled one.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Rundetårn and climb the helical corridor for the views while the city is still quiet. From there, walk the Indre By streets to the Nationalmuseet, and if your visit falls on a Wednesday, take advantage of the free weekly museum entry.
Afternoon: Cross to Christianshavn and climb the outside stairs of the Church of Our Saviour, then cross the street to Christiania. Continue due south afterwards for the canals and the old, crooked, brightly coloured buildings along the waterfront.
Evening: Return to the centre for Amalienborg, whose courtyard is open to the public, and finish among the streets around Frederikskirken and the City Hall.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to see the Royal Guard relief at Amalienborg?
The relief takes place every day at noon. The octagonal courtyard is open to the public and guarded by the ceremonial Royal Guard.
Is there a cheap day for museums in Copenhagen?
Entrance to many museums is free once a week, mainly on Wednesdays. Principal attractions are generally well signed in English, often German too.
How do I know whether a smaller museum caters to non-Danish speakers?
Check whether the museum's website has an English section. If it does, this usually means the museum has at least some English information throughout its exhibitions. Danes are usually fairly fluent in English, so you can also ask staff for a brief tour.
What can I do in Copenhagen when it rains?
The Winter Garden inside the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is a beautiful and very warm place to rest your legs on a rainy day, and the Tycho Brahe Planetarium on Vesterbro is another option in poor weather.
Pick the handful of sights that match your interests, check the free-entry day at the museums you want, and start mapping your days around the walking routes above.