Stand on the Plaza de Nariño in the late afternoon and the city shows you its character at once: a high Andean town square ringed by colonial buildings, cold enough for a jacket, with the green bulk of the Galeras volcano rising behind the rooftops. Pasto sits in the Atriz Valley at roughly 2,520 to 2,700 metres, so the air is thin and the light is sharp, and the temperature rarely climbs far above the mid-teens.
This is a city for travellers who prefer craft workshops, church interiors and mountain lakes to beach resorts. It suits people passing between Colombia and Ecuador on the Pan-American Highway, and anyone willing to spend a day on the water at La Cocha or on the flanks of a volcano. The streets are busy and the carnival, when it comes, is loud.
This guide covers the sights and experiences the source material supports, with practical notes on timing and what to combine with what.
Top things to do in Pasto
1. La Cocha Lake
Also known as Guamués Lake, this is the main attraction in the area, 27 kilometres from the city and about 45 minutes by road, sitting at 2,800 metres above sea level. It offers a wide landscape of mountains, colours and water, and the name comes from the Quechua word for lagoon. In 2000, by Decree 698 of 18 April, it was registered as a landmark of international importance under the Ramsar agreement, the first in the Andean zone.
You can visit one of its islands by boat, and the one that stands out most is the Island of La Corota, a Santuario de Flora y Fauna administered by the University of Nariño. Give it most of a day rather than a quick stop.
2. Galeras Volcano
The volcano reaches 4,276 metres above sea level and can easily be seen from Pasto, about 9 kilometres away. It lies within the Santuario de Flora y Fauna Galeras, between the limits of the central mountain range and the Patía River.
Access near the mountaintop is forbidden because of continuing volcanic activity. Of the sanctuary, only the Telpis sector with the Laguna De Telpis is open, so plan your visit around that rather than expecting to reach the summit.
3. Centro Cultural Pandiaco Museo Del Carnaval
This museum is dedicated to the carnival, and it is the place to understand what you are seeing if your visit coincides with the celebrations. It is open 08:00 to 18:00 Tuesday to Friday and 08:00 to 15:00 on Sunday, and closed Saturday and Monday.
Combine it with a walk through the city centre, since it sits on Calle 19. Check the day before you go, as the weekend hours are limited.
4. Museo del Oro Nariño
Housed in the Banco de la República, this museum covers the ways of life and history of the ancient cultures of the area, with pottery, metalwork and some gold pieces. Admission is free.
It is open 10:00 to 17:00 Tuesday to Saturday and closed Sunday and Monday. Because entry costs nothing, it works well as a short stop between other sights on Calle 19.
5. Museo Taminango
A museum about artisanal culture, on Carrera 29. It is open 08:00 to 18:00 Monday to Friday and 09:00 to 13:00 Saturday, and closed Sunday.
Pair it with the Museo Alfonso Zambrano if you are spending a morning on the city's craft and art collections, and go on a weekday when the full hours apply.
6. Museo Alfonso Zambrano
This museum is mostly about an artist's woodwork, on Calle 20. It is a focused collection rather than a broad one, which makes it a good complement to the city's other craft-oriented museums.
It sits on the fifth floor at Calle 20 #23-90, so allow time to find the entrance rather than assuming it is at street level.
7. Museo Juan Lorenzo Lucero
Displays here cover the history and cultural heritage of southwest Colombia. It is open 08:00 to 11:00 and 14:00 to 17:00 Monday to Friday, and 08:00 to 11:00 Saturday, closed Sunday.
Note the long midday closure and plan your visit for the morning or mid-afternoon. The museum can be reached at +57 2 7314414 if you need to confirm anything before travelling.
8. Templo De Cristo Rey
The interior of this church is the draw: visitors describe it as like being in a medieval European gothic cathedral. It is on Calle 20 at #24-64.
Go for the inside rather than the facade, and combine it with the nearby museums on Calle 20 in the same morning.
9. Church of Our Lady of Fatima
A Byzantine style design on Calle 19 at #14-29. The architectural style sets it apart from the other churches in the centre.
It is close to the Museo del Oro Nariño, so the two fit naturally into one walk.
10. Templo de San Felipe
This church has a nice cruciform shape and a turquoise and white design. It is a short stop rather than a long visit.
Worth seeking out if you are working through the city's churches in a single afternoon.
11. Iglesia de San Andres
Interesting architecture if you like little domes scattered about. It rewards a look at the roofline as much as the interior.
Add it to a church-focused walk through the centre rather than making a separate trip.
12. San Juan Bautista
A church on Calle 18 at #25, in the centre of the city. It is one of several religious buildings within easy reach of each other.
Combine it with the Plaza de Nariño and the surrounding streets, keeping your belongings close.
13. Plaza de Nariño
The town square and the natural starting point for a walk through the centre. Be aware that this is a place where people will help themselves to your cell phone.
Keep phones and valuables out of sight, and use the square as a meeting point rather than somewhere to linger with equipment on display.
14. Ciclovía
Every Sunday and Monday holiday from 7AM to noon, Avenida de los Estudiantes and other streets are closed to cars and hundreds of people turn out to bicycle, skate, jog and walk. You can join up on foot.
This is the easiest way to see the city alongside locals, and it costs nothing. Arrive in the morning, since the streets reopen at noon.
15. Blacks and Whites' Carnival
Held between January 2 and 7 each year, the Carnaval de Negros y Blancos features displays of craftsmanship in floats portraying legends and traditions, often mixed with references to current political events in Colombia. The floats take years for the craftsmen to create.
Do not wear nice clothes during this festival, as people paint each other's faces with cosmetic colours made for the purpose and throw colourful talcum powder and party foam. If you want to understand the floats in advance, visit the Centro Cultural Pandiaco Museo Del Carnaval.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Plaza de Nariño, keeping your phone out of sight, then walk to the Museo del Oro Nariño when it opens at 10:00. Follow with the Church of Our Lady of Fatima on Calle 19, and if it is a Sunday or a Monday holiday, join the Ciclovía on Avenida de los Estudiantes before noon.
Afternoon: Spend the early afternoon at the Museo Taminango, open until 18:00 on weekdays, then visit the Templo De Cristo Rey and the Museo Alfonso Zambrano on Calle 20. If the day is Tuesday to Friday, finish the afternoon at the Centro Cultural Pandiaco Museo Del Carnaval, open until 18:00.
Evening: Return to the centre for the churches near San Juan Bautista and the Templo de San Felipe, then settle in for a cold evening at altitude. If you have a second day, give it entirely to La Cocha Lake, and consider the Galeras Volcano's Telpis sector on another.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit Pasto for the carnival?
The Blacks and Whites' Carnival takes place between January 2 and 7 each year. Expect crowds, face painting with cosmetic colours, thrown talcum powder and party foam, and leave your good clothes at home.
How do I get to La Cocha Lake from Pasto?
The lake is 27 kilometres from the city, about 45 minutes by road, at 2,800 metres above sea level. Once there, you can visit one of its islands by boat, with the Island of La Corota the most prominent.
Can I climb the Galeras Volcano?
Access near the mountaintop is forbidden due to continuing volcanic activity. Of the Santuario de Flora y Fauna Galeras, only the Telpis sector with the Laguna De Telpis is open.
Which museums are open on Sunday?
The Centro Cultural Pandiaco Museo Del Carnaval is open 08:00 to 15:00 on Sunday. The Museo Taminango, Museo Juan Lorenzo Lucero and Museo del Oro Nariño are all closed on Sunday, so plan those for a weekday or Saturday.
Check the opening days against your travel dates, pack for cold highland weather, and start building your itinerary around the lake, the volcano and the museums of the centre.