Stand on the square in Downtown Valledupar and the yellow blossoms of the cañaguate and puy trees are likely to be what you notice first, along with the colonial arcades that still frame the plaza. This is the city that gave vallenato music to Colombia, and the sound of accordions drifts out of its streets and workshops.
Valledupar suits travellers who are drawn to music, river swimming and low-key colonial architecture rather than big-city sights. It also works as a base for the indigenous villages and mountain country of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Be prepared for heat: the city has an average temperature of 28 °C and has been classified as the hottest place in Colombia.
This guide covers the places worth your time in the city and around it, followed by a plan for a single day.
Top things to do in Valledupar
1. Museo del Acordeón
This museum on Carrera 17 is the place to learn about vallenato music, the genre that made Valledupar its cradle. Two tours run each day, at 10am and 3pm, and admission is COP$35,000.
It sits adjacent to Casa De La Mama De Diomedez Diaz, so combine the two in one visit. Call ahead on +57 300 8368877 if you want to confirm a tour.
2. Plaza Alfonso Lopez
The main square, also referred to as “Alfonso López Pumarejo,” anchors the traditional and colonial part of Downtown Valledupar. The surrounding streets still preserve Spanish colonial architecture, and the square is the natural starting point for a walk through the centre.
Come in the dry season if you want to see the yellow blossoms of the cañaguate and puy trees that cover the region. The plaza is not far from Callejón De La Purrututú.
3. Festival de la leyenda Vallenata
Held in the last week of April, this is a competition of vallenato bands and the city's signature event. Expect a big crowd.
If your trip can be timed around it, plan the rest of your visit around the festival rather than the other way round, and book what you need well in advance.
4. Swim in the Guatapurí river
The Guatapurí borders the city, and swimming in it is one of the simplest pleasures here. The swimming facilities “Hurtado” at the river Guatapurí are the established spot.
Be aware that the river gets packed on weekends and holidays, so a weekday visit is calmer. The Badillo river is another option for a cool, clean swim.
5. Los Besotes ecopark
This verdant park is the place for birdwatching and hiking, in country that forms part of the biodiverse Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and Serranía del Perijá ecosystem.
Pair it with the reserve “Vida Silvestre” or the eco park “Paraver,” which is known for its protection of flora and fauna, if you want a full day outdoors.
6. Indian village of Nabucimake (Nabusimake)
Nabusimake is the secluded town of the Arhuaca people, and visiting it is a chance to witness their traditions and culture. It is reached by shared taxi: first to Pueblo Bello (COP$20,000), then another shared taxi to Nabusimake (COP$15,000).
Treat it as a respectful visit to a living community rather than a sight, and allow the journey time it needs.
7. Casa De La Mama De Diomedez Diaz
On Carrera 17, adjacent to the Museo del Acordeón, this is the former home of the vallenato musician Diomedez Diaz.
Visit it immediately before or after the museum, since the two share the same block.
8. Callejón De La Purrututú
Between Carreras 6 and 7 near Calle 13c, not far from the plaza, this is Valledupar's historical museum. It is an easy addition to a walk through the colonial centre.
You can reach the staff on +57 300 5906243. Combine it with the Plaza Alfonso Lopez while you are in the area.
9. La Mina
The nearby historic village of La Mina is where to go for indigenous crafts, and it also has natural swimming facilities.
It works well as a half-day trip that combines shopping with a swim.
10. El Cuartico
On Cra. 14a #9C - 05, this is a one-room cottage holding old relics, run in the manner of an amateur living history museum. It might be of interest if you are really looking for something to do. Admission is COP$5,000.
Set your expectations accordingly and treat it as a small curiosity rather than a full afternoon.
11. The monuments and parks
The city's monuments and parks include “Los Poporos”, “María Mulata”, ”Los Gallos”, “El Folclor Vallenato”, ”Mi Pedazo de Acordeón”, and “Revolución en Marcha”.
These are scattered around the city, so fit them into walks between the plaza and the centre rather than making a separate trip.
12. Vallenato music groups and parties
Beyond the museum and the April festival, the city's vallenato music groups and vallenato parties are part of ordinary life here. The “stage” Compai Chipuco is one of the venues associated with the scene.
Ask locally what is on during your stay, since this is a living music culture rather than a fixed attraction.
13. The park “Lineal” and the “Village Vallenato”
These are among the city's named green spaces and are worth folding into a day when you want to be outdoors without leaving Valledupar.
Pair them with the fruit trees you will find across the city, among them mango, cañahuate, ceibas, robles, totumos, acacias, mamones, cotoprix, uvitos, cardamomos and cauchos.
14. The savannah and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta
The savannah area of the Cesar department and the mountain area of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta are the two contrasting landscapes around the city, and both are within reach for a day out.
Villages such as La Paz, Patillal, Manaure Cesar, Pueblo Bello and Nabusimake are among the places to aim for if you want to see the surrounding country.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Plaza Alfonso Lopez and walk the traditional and colonial part of Downtown Valledupar, including the monuments and parks such as “Los Poporos”, “María Mulata” and ”Los Gallos”. Continue to Callejón De La Purrututú nearby, then take the 10am tour at the Museo del Acordeón and step next door to Casa De La Mama De Diomedez Diaz.
Afternoon: Head to the swimming facilities “Hurtado” at the river Guatapurí for a swim, keeping in mind that the river is busiest on weekends and holidays. If you would rather stay dry, spend the afternoon at Los Besotes ecopark birdwatching and hiking.
Evening: Return to the centre for the park “Lineal” and the “Village Vallenato”, and look for a vallenato music group playing in the city. If you have time before dark, El Cuartico is a small stop on Cra. 14a #9C - 05.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit Valledupar?
The region has two dry seasons and two rainy seasons. In the dry season the vegetation turns mostly yellow and water bodies shrink, while the rainy season brings green growth and higher river levels. If you want the Vallenato festival, come in the last week of April.
How do I get to Nabusimake?
Take a shared taxi to Pueblo Bello for COP$20,000, then another shared taxi from there to Nabusimake for COP$15,000.
Where can I learn about vallenato music?
The Museo del Acordeón on Carrera 17 runs two tours, at 10am and 3pm, for COP$35,000. The city's vallenato music groups and vallenato parties, and the Festival de la leyenda Vallenata in the last week of April, are the other ways to hear it.
Can I swim near the city?
Yes. The swimming facilities “Hurtado” at the river Guatapurí are the established spot, and the Guatapurí and Badillo rivers are both swum. The river gets packed on weekends and holidays, and La Mina also has natural swimming facilities.
Decide whether you are coming for the festival in April or for the rivers and the mountains, and start planning your days around that.