Stand on the long suspension bridge over the Ya River and the town opens up around you: a crowded main street, traders moving between the Chinese and Tibetan worlds, and mountains pressing in on every side. Ya'an sits at the western edge of the Sichuan Basin, just below the Tibetan Plateau, and it is a city defined by water — four rivers run through it, and rain falls on more than half the days of the year.
That wet climate is why the surrounding hills are so green, and why the region became the origin of the world's artificial tea planting. It is also the place where the first giant panda was found, in Baoxing County, and where the first panda specimen known to the western world was discovered.
This guide suits travellers who want mountains, tea and old towns rather than city sights, and who are willing to travel out from the urban centre to reach them. Most of the best experiences here sit in the counties around the city, so plan on day trips rather than an afternoon stroll.
Top things to do in Ya'an
1. Bifeng Gorge Scenic Area
Bifeng Gorge is the closest major sight to the city, only half an hour's drive away, and it holds the Bifengxia Giant Panda Conservation Base, where you can see more than 60 giant pandas. The same scenic area also contains Bifengxia Wildlife Park, where hundreds of wild animals can be seen up close.
Come in the morning to give yourself time for both the panda base and the wildlife park, and note that opening hours shorten in the low season from November to February. Tickets are separate for the gorge and the wildlife park, so decide in advance which you want.
2. Mengding Mountain tea picking
If you visit in April or May, picking tea is the experience not to miss. You can carry a small backpack and tea-picking clothes, walk into the tea fields and pick new leaves yourself, and watch the traditional production techniques of Mengshan tea, which is a national intangible cultural heritage project.
Mengding Mountain in Mingshan County is the recommended destination, and it is also where seven tea trees believed to be the origins of tea have been kept for more than a thousand years. Go during the spring picking window, since the experience depends on the season.
3. Fengtongzhai Dengchigou Scenic Area
This is where the giant panda was discovered, on the western slope of Qionglai Mountain in northeastern Baoxing County. You can watch giant pandas in a semi-wild environment, and visit the town of Dawei, named after the discoverer of the panda, along with the Catholic church where he once worked.
It is about a two-hour drive from Ya'an, so treat it as a full day out and combine the panda viewing with the church and town while you are there.
4. Dawagengza
Dawagengza in Baoxing County is known for its sea of clouds, sunrise, Buddha's light, fog, meadows and alpine azaleas, and is regarded as a 360-degree viewing platform. It sits in Gari Village in the stony soil Tibetan Township.
It opens from 08:00 to 17:30, and the sunrise and sea of clouds are the reason to make the trip, so plan your day around being there early.
5. Niubeishan
Niubeishan, formerly known as Big Mine Mountain and Bison Mountain, takes its name from a boulder at the cliff top that protrudes like a bull's head, with a long thin ridge behind it like a bull's back. It is a strong choice for photography.
The mountain top is high, so build in time to acclimatise and bring layers for the cold.
6. Mountain Jiaoding
Mountain Jiaoding in Hanyuan County sits above 3,000 metres on average, and from it you can look out over Gongga Snow Mountain, the king of the Shushan Mountains. Sunrise, sunset, the sea of clouds and the starry sky are all visible from here.
Because the appeal is the light at either end of the day, plan to stay for sunrise or sunset rather than arriving at midday.
7. Menghuo Castle
Menghuo Castle in Liziping Township has the largest alpine ecological meadows in southwest China. The meadows turn golden in autumn, the scenery changes in layers as you move through it, and free-range cattle and sheep are visible throughout. You can camp on the meadows or go horse galloping.
It is about a two-hour drive from Xichang and around four hours from Chengdu, with its own high-speed exit, and entry is free. It is open around the clock, so camping overnight is possible.
8. ShenMuLei
ShenMuLei in Stony Township, Baoxing County, is called the place where the immortals live. Forests, snow-capped mountains, streams, alpine meadows and alpine caliche pools make up the main scenery, and you can visit the Sequoia Forest, Natural Bonsai Garden, Natural Root Carving Garden, Peak Meadow and Colourful Pools.
It opens from 08:30 to 18:30, and because the scenery changes through the year, any season works — just allow most of a day.
9. Erlangshan Horn River Scenic Area
The Erlangshan Horn River Scenic Area in Tianquan County is rich in wildlife and is known as the Noah's Ark of Quaternary Glacial Species. If wildlife is what you are after, this is the place to build a day around.
Pair it with the other Baoxing and Tianquan-area sights if you are travelling through that part of the prefecture.
10. Longcanggou Forest Park
Longcanggou Forest Park sits deep in the mountains of Yingjing County, with forest coverage of 97.5 percent and air full of negative oxygen ions. Summer temperatures here average only 23°C, making it a good escape from the heat of the basin.
There is a direct train from Ya'an Bus Terminal to the scenic spot, and the park is open from 08:30 to 16:00, so start early.
11. Mount JiāJīn
Mount JiāJīn lies west of 210 Provincial Road in Baoxing County and is reached by driving. Road conditions on the mountain are better than you might expect, but the top is cold, with temperatures of one or two degrees and snowfall.
Above 4,000 metres you may feel the altitude, so rest before heading down. The descent has slippery road, dark ice and rock potholes, so drive carefully.
12. ShangLi old town
ShangLi old town is one of the top ten ancient towns in Sichuan Province. It is surrounded by two waters, backed by mountains and facing fields, with wooden houses forming well-shaped streets.
It works well as a half-day trip combined with the Bifeng Gorge area, since both sit in the same direction from the city.
13. Ya'an Museum
Ya'an Museum on Wending Street in Yucheng District is as modern as almost any museum in China, though its archaeological collection is understandably small. Entry is free.
It is open Tuesday to Sunday from 09:00 to 17:00, with last entry at 16:30, and it is reachable by bus routes 1 and 5. It is a sensible rainy-day stop given how often it rains here.
14. Anshun field
Anshun field, near Anshunchang Township, was formerly known as Zidadei and was a place where wars were fought as recorded in the Qing Dynasty. The scenic area is open all day, while the indoor arena opens Tuesday to Sunday from 09:00 to 17:00 and closes on Monday.
Public transport runs from Sichuan Railway Station to Anshunchang Ancient Town, so you can reach it without a car — but check the day of the week, since the indoor section is closed on Mondays.
15. Ruins of the ancient city of Yen-Dao
The Ruins of the ancient city of Yen-Dao sit at Guchengping, west of Xingjing County, on the third terrace of the south bank of the Xingyang River below Zhongjun Mountain. They are the well-preserved ruins of a Han Dynasty city, and many tombs and artefacts from the Spring and Autumn period through the Qin and Han dynasties have been found there.
This is a site for travellers with a genuine interest in archaeology rather than a general sightseeing stop.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Bifeng Gorge Scenic Area, half an hour's drive from the city. Spend the morning at the Bifengxia Giant Panda Conservation Base, where more than 60 giant pandas are kept, and continue into Bifengxia Wildlife Park if you have the time and the separate ticket.
Afternoon: Head to ShangLi old town, with its wooden houses and well-shaped streets between two waters, for a slower couple of hours. If the weather turns wet, Ya'an Museum on Wending Street is the alternative — it is free and open until 17:00, with last entry at 16:30.
Evening: Return to the city and eat. Order Ya Fish Clay Pot, made with local cold-water Ya fish, or Ya'an Tata Noodles with their chewy texture and spicy seasoning, and finish with Yingjing Bangbang Chicken.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit Ya'an?
April and May are the months for tea picking, when you can go into the tea fields and watch the traditional production of Mengshan tea. Be aware that rain falls on around 213 days a year, so pack for wet weather whenever you come.
Do I need a car to see the main sights?
Many of the strongest sights, including Mount JiāJīn and Dawagengza, are reached by driving. Some places are served by public transport instead: there is a direct train from Ya'an Bus Terminal to Longcanggou Forest Park, and public transport runs from Sichuan Railway Station to Anshunchang Ancient Town.
Where can I see giant pandas?
Two places in the sources: the Bifengxia Giant Panda Conservation Base inside Bifeng Gorge Scenic Area, and Fengtongzhai Dengchigou Scenic Area in Baoxing County, where you can watch pandas in a semi-wild environment.
What local food should I try?
Ya Fish Clay Pot, made with local cold-water Ya fish, is a signature dish. Ya'an Tata Noodles are known for chewy noodles and spicy seasoning, Yingjing Bangbang Chicken is spicy and fragrant with tender meat, and Zha Zha Mian is made from buckwheat pressed into strips. Tibetan brick tea and panda tea are local specialities worth looking for.
Decide which season suits you, pick your base, and start mapping the tea fields, the meadows and the old towns into a route.