Stand on the deck of a boat on the Beijiang River and the hills close in on both banks, temple roofs appearing among the trees. That river is the spine of a Qingyuan visit, and most of the places worth your time sit along it or in the mountains that rise behind it.
Qingyuan suits travellers who are already in Guangdong and want mountains, river scenery, caves and hot springs rather than a city break. It is a large, mostly mountainous prefecture, and the practical way to see it is to pick one or two areas and give them a full day each.
1. Feilai Temple
A temple around 1,400 years old, set on the bank of the Beijiang River in Qingyuan Valley, roughly 23km from the city centre. The setting is the reason to come: the temple sits directly at the water's edge, so you get the building and the river in the same view.
You can reach it by private or public boat from Qingyuan, which makes it a natural pairing with a river trip rather than a separate outing.
2. Feixia Scenic Area
An area along the Beijiang River with hills on both banks, about 30km northeast of the city centre.
You can arrive by private or public boat, or by bus, which takes about 1½ hours. The site has phone numbers listed for enquiries: +86 763 3780168 and +86 763 3780088.
3. Baojing Palace of Yingde
A cave attraction in Yingde City, listed among Qingyuan's attractions. It is one of the named sights in the Yingde area, so it works well as the anchor of a day spent in that direction.
The listed contact number is +86 763 2222131. Check locally before travelling, as cave sites can close for maintenance.
4. Taihe Ancient Cave
A cave scenic area at Taihe Town in Qingxin County. It is one of the named attractions of the Qingxin side of the prefecture, convenient if you are basing yourself in the Qingxin area.
Combine it with the Qingxin hot springs below, since both sit in the same county.
5. Sankeng Hot Spring
A hot spring area at Sankeng Town in Qingxin County. Soaking here is the standard way to end a day of walking or river travel, and the county has more than one hot spring option.
6. Huanghua Lake
A lake in Fogang County, listed among Qingyuan's attractions. It is a quieter, water-based stop and pairs naturally with a slow day rather than a packed itinerary.
Because it sits in Fogang, treat it as a separate outing from the Qingxin and Yingde sights rather than something to squeeze in between them.
7. Gulongxia
The tallest of the canyons used for water-rafting here. Be clear about what this is: not white-water rafting as usually understood, but a man-made cement slide on a mountain where two people sit in a small dinghy and hold on, with no guide and no rowing required.
Above the same valley there is a glass bridge high over Gulongxia and a glass viewing platform.
8. Huangtengxia
Equally popular for the same style of rafting, and it has more besides: a water park, a mountain luge trail, cable cars and a treetop walk. If you want a full day out with several activities in one place, this is the one to choose.
Going with a tour agency can get you better prices, as agencies often tie the trip to shopping visits where you listen to a lecture on various products. Even allowing for that, a tour including lunch can end up cheaper than the entrance fee at the rafting site.
9. Feihu Park
A park that is at its best in the evening, when it is a good way to relax with family, friends and companions. The trees, the lake and the wind make for a pleasant walk, and on the right evening you can watch the sunset.
If the weather is right, the lake is a first-class viewing platform, and there is a fishing area on the west side. If you are prone to mosquito bites, bring repellent.
10. The Old Village
A village with scenic waterways and old-fashioned buildings. It is a low-key stop, best for an unhurried walk rather than a checklist visit.
Pair it with the river sights, since the waterways are the point of the place.
11. Three Gorges of Huangchuan
The gorge has two sides with very different characters. The western side is developed with tourist attractions, including a high bridge some distance from town.
The eastern side is not developed and can be reached by car along a narrow road, with no ticket price, passing several villages and places where you can get down to the water without charge. Choose the side that matches the day you want.
12. Little Beijiang of Lianyang
A river that helps sustain the whole northwest part of Qingyuan. You can row on it with a rowboat, which is the simplest way to spend time on the water here.
It is a good fit if you are heading northwest and want a quiet half-day rather than a developed attraction.
13. Peak Shikengkong in Yangshan County
A named attraction in Yangshan County, in the mountainous north of the prefecture. Expect a hill outing rather than a built-up site.
Because it sits in Yangshan, plan it as its own day rather than combining it with the Qingcheng and Qingxin sights.
14. Underground River of Lianzhou
A named attraction in Lianzhou, in the northwest of the prefecture. It is a water-and-cave experience, and one of the reasons to make the trip out to that side of Qingyuan.
Lianzhou is also one of the prefecture's ports, so the area is oriented around the river.
15. Yao Ethnic Minority of Liannan
You can visit minority communities in Liannan and Lianshan, the two areas where the Zhuang and Yao populations live. This is a cultural stop rather than a scenic one.
Treat it as part of a Liannan or Lianshan day, and go with the expectation of observing everyday life rather than a staged attraction.
If you only have one day
Morning: Take a private or public boat from Qingyuan to Feilai Temple, roughly 23km from the city centre, and see the temple on the bank of the Beijiang River. Continue on the water to the Feixia Scenic Area, about 30km northeast of the city centre, for the hills on both banks.
Afternoon: Head to Qingxin County for Taihe Ancient Cave at Taihe Town, then move on to Sankeng Hot Spring at Sankeng Town to soak. If you would rather have a more active afternoon, swap in Gulongxia for the canyon rafting and the glass bridge, or Huangtengxia for the rafting, water park, luge trail, cable cars and treetop walk.
Evening: Return to the city and walk in Feihu Park. The trees, the lake and the wind are at their best in the evening, and on the right evening you can watch the sunset from the lake. Bring mosquito repellent.
How do I get to Feilai Temple and the Feixia Scenic Area?
Both can be reached by private or public boat from Qingyuan. Feixia can also be reached by bus, which takes about 1½ hours.
What is water-rafting in Qingyuan actually like?
It is not white-water rafting as usually understood. It is a man-made cement slide on a mountain where two people sit in a small dinghy and hold on, with no guide and no rowing required. There are several canyons to choose from, with Gulongxia the tallest and Huangtengxia equally popular.
Is it worth booking a tour for the rafting?
Going with a tour agency can get you better prices, as agencies often tie the trip to shopping visits where you listen to a lecture on various products. Even so, a tour including lunch can end up cheaper than the entrance fee at the rafting site.
Which side of the Three Gorges of Huangchuan should I choose?
The western side is developed with tourist attractions, including a high bridge some distance from town. The eastern side is not developed and can be reached by car along a narrow road with no ticket price, with several villages and places to reach the water without charge.
Decide which side of the prefecture you want to base yourself in, check the cave and hot spring sites before you travel, and start planning your days around the river.