You step through the Southern Gate of Dali Old Town and the green stone pavement of Foreigner Street runs west beneath your feet, seven metres wide and a kilometre long, with the Wuhua-Tower rising at the centre of the pedestrian street ahead of you. Behind the town, the Cangshan Mountains climb sharply, and on a clear day the Cloud Traveler's Path gives you the whole valley and Erhai Lake below.
Dali suits travellers who want markets, temples, mountain walking and lake villages within reach of one old town, and who are happy to arrange transport locally rather than follow a fixed itinerary.
1. Cangshan Mountains and the Cloud Traveler's Path
The Cangshan Mountains offer two accessible altitudes. At 2500 m you find Gantong Temple, Zhongho Temple and the Cloud Traveler's Path between them; at 3700 m is Horse Washing (Xima) Pool. The northern route of the path runs 6 km and gives one of the sharpest cliff views of the entire Dali valley, with Jizu Mountain visible beyond Erhai Lake on a clear day; a 2 km side path at the bend in the main valley ends at a mountain pool where you can swim on a warm day. The southern route winds 11 km through several valleys to Gantong Temple and takes 4–5 hours.
A suggested route is to hike or ride a horse to Zhonghe Temple, take the northern path for 3 km, then head back south past Zhonghe Temple towards Gantong Temple, buying refreshments at the temple. If you plan to descend by cable car at Gantong Temple, reach it before 16:30, as the service closes at 17:00 but may close earlier. Entrance to the Mountain Park is ¥30; the cable car from and to Gantong Temple is ¥80 round trip or ¥50 one way.
2. Tang Dynasty Three Pagodas
The Tang Dynasty Three Pagodas stand about 10 minutes by bike northwest of Dali Old Town, next door to Three Pagodas Hotel, and are among the best preserved Buddhist structures in China. The Central Pagoda is almost 1200 years old and represents the period when Dali was a Buddhist Kingdom; the Congshen Temple behind the pagodas has been rebuilt and reopened, and the complex continues far up the mountain. A climb to the top of the pagodas rewards you with an overlook of Dali Ancient Town and Erhai Lake.
Do not miss the "Shadow Agglomeration Pond", where the three pagodas reflect in a picturesque way, and look for the "Frog Call Stone". A small vegetarian buffet operates from 11:30 to 13:00 for ¥20. Entry is ¥75, with a 50% discount on a student ID. Summer hours are 07:10–19:00 and winter hours 07:30–18:30.
3. Erhai Lake
Erhai Lake is visited for Guanyin Temple and several islands, and makes a good day out if you go with a group. Boats can be arranged easily because owners come into town to drum up business, and you can see what you are getting from the photobooks they carry. Ferry rides at real stations cost around ¥30.
A ¥30 entrance fee is charged for lake visits, plus ¥50–100 per person for a day. Signs indicate that fishing boats and paddle boats cannot carry tourists.
4. Erhai Lake Villages
There are 17 villages spread along the western shore of Erhai Lake between Xiaguan and Xizhou. Ride east from Dali Old Town until you reach the lake at Caicun Village, then north beside the lake shore using local paths and roads. It is a good opportunity to see village life, meet locals, see the banyan trees in each village square and admire local architecture, with three Qing Dynasty bridges along the route.
Combine the ride with a visit to Wase Market on the eastern shore, a traditional and conservative Bai town with a weekly market aimed at townspeople and nearby farmers.
5. Dali Municipal Museum
The Dali Municipal Museum sits on the middle section of Fuxing Road in Dali Old Town, housed in the former headquarters of Du Wenxiu. It includes historical relic exhibitions, traditional courtyard architecture and a stele forest. Entry is free.
Summer hours are 08:30–17:30 and winter hours 09:00–17:00. It pairs naturally with a walk along Fuxing Road and the rest of the old town.
6. City Wall
Walking Dali Old Town's city wall gives you an elevated view over the town, and access is from the Southern Gate. It is an easy first stop when you arrive in the old town.
Combine it with the Wuhua-Tower and Foreigner Street, both a short walk away in the centre of the old town.
7. Wuhua-Tower
Wuhua-Tower is the old gate-looking tower in the centre of the pedestrian street of Dali Old Town. Climb the stairs for a nice view. Entry is free of charge.
Note that the tower is inaccessible as of March 2019, so check before making the climb the main purpose of your stop.
8. Foreigner Street
Foreigner Street in the ancient city of Dali runs east–west, 1000 m long and 7 m wide, with green stone pavement. It takes its name from the period when Yunnan people rose against Yuan Shikai after he proclaimed himself Emperor.
Walk it as part of a circuit of the old town centre, together with the Wuhua-Tower and the City Wall.
9. Puxian Temple
Puxian Temple is an authentic, non-touristy temple, which makes it a quieter counterpoint to the better-known sights in and around the old town.
Visit it as part of a slow wander rather than as a scheduled stop, and pair it with the Dali Municipal Museum on Fuxing Road.
10. Butterfly Spring
Butterfly Spring is a deep blue pool that periodically swarms with countless butterflies, with a legend attached: a young woman named Wen Gu and a young man named Xia Lang were in love, the prince kidnapped Wen Gu, Xia Lang rescued her, and the pursued lovers jumped into the pond, from which a pair of butterflies flew out the next morning. The site also includes a hillside park with trees and birds, a small butterfly breeding centre, a Butterfly Museum with hundreds of mounted specimens, and the "world of butterflies", a greenhouse where you can see lots of butterflies flying around.
Entry is ¥40. You can pay an extra ¥15 for a ride to the pond on an oversized golf cart, but it is probably not worth it, as the distance is less than a kilometre and a nice walk. To get there, catch a minibus from outside the west gate.
11. Shaping Market
Shaping Town, about 30 km north of Dali, offers a lively weekly market with plenty of local colour. The market starts early, and it is a good chance to see local farmers out in force.
Go in the morning to catch it at its liveliest, and treat the trip as a half-day outing rather than a quick stop.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Southern Gate and walk the City Wall for an elevated view of the old town, then continue to Wuhua-Tower in the centre of the pedestrian street and along Foreigner Street. Follow Fuxing Road to the Dali Municipal Museum when it opens, and add Puxian Temple if time allows.
Afternoon: Head northwest of the old town to the Tang Dynasty Three Pagodas, allowing time for the Congshen Temple complex and the climb to the top for the overlook of Dali Ancient Town and Erhai Lake. If you are there between 11:30 and 13:00, the vegetarian buffet is ¥20.
Evening: Return to the old town and finish with a walk along Foreigner Street and around the Wuhua-Tower, which is free to visit, before settling in for the evening.
How do I reach the Cloud Traveler's Path?
You can take a cable car from the city near Guan Yin Temple to Gantong Temple, ride a horse to Zhongho Temple from Dali Tianlongbabu TV City, walk up about 1½ hours to the middle of the path from Dali Tianlongbabu TV City, or ride a horse or walk up about 1½ hours to Zhongho Temple from the city via the gate across Ren Min Lu street.
What does it cost to visit the Cangshan Mountains?
Entrance to the Mountain Park is ¥30. The cable car from and to Gantong Temple is ¥80 round trip or ¥50 one way, and a taxi to or from Gantong Temple is ¥30. The cable car to Horse Washing Pool is ¥285 for a return as of January 2014.
When should I leave the mountain to catch the cable car?
If you plan to descend by cable car at Gantong Temple, make sure you reach it before 16:30. The service closes at 17:00 but may close earlier than that; otherwise there is a path down to the city, about a 1–2 hour hike.
How do I arrange a boat on Erhai Lake?
Boats can be easily arranged because owners come into town to drum up business, and you can see what you are getting from the photobooks they carry. Ferry rides at real stations cost around ¥30, and a ¥30 entrance fee is charged for lake visits, plus ¥50–100 per person for a day.
Decide how many days you can give to the old town, the mountain and the lake, then start planning your route around the places above.