Stand on the slope below Pagoda Mountain in the late afternoon and the whole city reads at once: the pagoda on its hill, the Yanshui valley below, and the loess ridges that close the horizon in every direction. Yan'an is a small city with a very large place in modern Chinese history, and most of what a visitor comes to see sits within a short ride of the centre.
This guide suits travellers with an interest in twentieth-century Chinese history, in the cave dwellings cut into the hillsides, and in the dry, folded landscape of northern Shaanxi. It also suits anyone breaking a longer Shaanxi trip between Xi'an and the north.
What follows covers the sites named in the source material, with the practical detail you need to fit them into a day or two. Confirm opening hours and ticket prices locally before you set out, as they change.
Top things to do in Yan'an
1. Yan'an Revolution Memorial
A large museum on Wangjiaping Road in Baota District covering the history of the Communist Party's activities in Yan'an from 1935 to 1948. It is the single best place to put the sites you will see elsewhere in the city into order, so consider starting here rather than ending here.
Entry is free. Opening hours are 08:00 to 16:00, with no entry after 15:30, so an early start matters. Numerous city buses stop outside, including nos. 3, 8, 23, 28, 104, K1, K6, K7, K12, K13, K16, K103, K202, K203, K208, subroute 23 and the Education Bus.
2. Pagoda Mountain
The landmark building of Yan'an and the image most people carry away from the city, standing on a hill southeast of the centre. The climb gives you the view over the urban valley that no other spot in the source material provides.
Opening hours are 07:30 to 19:00. Admission is ¥65, with a further ¥10 to climb the tower. Late afternoon light is the reason to time your visit for the end of the day rather than the middle of it.
3. Zaoyuan
Known as "Date Park", this is a small public park containing the old housing of the Communist leaders. The park itself has not much to see, but there are many souvenirs to buy, which makes it a reasonable stop for gifts rather than for scenery.
Entry is free. It pairs naturally with the other Communist-era sites in and around the city, and it is easy to walk through in a short time.
4. Phoenix Hill
A mountain in the city centre, described in the source material as one of the four famous mountains, with a highest elevation of 1,132 metres. The ridge walks give sweeping views over Yan'an.
Because it sits in the centre, it can be combined with a morning at the Yan'an Revolution Memorial or an afternoon at Pagoda Mountain without adding much travel.
5. Qingliang Mountain
A mountain range with a long historical and cultural background, set in the typical loess plateau landform, high in altitude with steep slopes and dense vegetation. It is known above all for its role during the Anti-Japanese War, when it was an important strategic location in Yan'an and the surrounding mountains gave the Red Army advantages of concealment and defence.
Many relics and memorial facilities related to the Yan'an period are preserved on the mountain, making it one of the important places to learn about the history of the Chinese revolution. Admission is ¥31, and opening hours are 07:30 to 19:30.
6. Nanni Bay
The site, southeast of Yan'an, where in March 1941 the 359th Brigade of the Eighth Route Army under brigade commander Wang Zhen launched a mass production movement. It is described as the birthplace of the Yan'an spirit and of China's agricultural reclamation.
It sits outside the city, so treat it as a half-day trip rather than a stop squeezed between two others. Opening hours are 08:30 to 17:30 and entry is free. The site can be reached on +86 911-2113735.
7. The Mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor
The mausoleum of Xuanyuan, described as the founder of the Chinese nation, at Qiaoshan in Huangling County. It is the one site in this list that belongs to the deep past rather than the revolutionary period, and it draws visitors for that reason.
Opening hours are 07:30 to 18:30. Admission is ¥91.00 in peak season, from 1 March to 30 November, and ¥51.00 off-season, from 1 December to 28 February. The site can be reached on +86 0911-5212742. Because it lies in Huangling County, plan it as a separate excursion.
8. Yan'an Nursery
A communist play staged as part of the two-day tours from Xi'an, in Chinese 延安保育院. It is a bit like an opera, and the source material notes plainly that if you do not understand Chinese you can forget about enjoying it.
Tickets are ¥150 and are usually charged as an extra on top of the tour. Book it only if you have Chinese and want a performance to close the day.
9. The city's yaodongs
In the city centre you can find numerous yaodongs, caves dug into hillsides that serve as traditional homes. They are the vernacular architecture of this part of Shaanxi, and seeing them in use is a different experience from seeing the preserved revolutionary sites.
Look for them as you move between the central sights rather than making a special trip; they are part of the fabric of the centre.
10. The Communist Party historical sites
In and around Yan'an there are several spots related to the history of the Chinese Communist Party: the place where Mao and his comrades lived and worked, and places where party conferences were held. These are scattered rather than gathered in one location.
Use the Yan'an Revolution Memorial first to understand what you are looking at, then visit the individual sites with that context in hand.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at the Yan'an Revolution Memorial on Wangjiaping Road when it opens at 08:00, keeping in mind that no entry is allowed after 15:30. Give it a couple of hours to set the historical scene for everything else.
Afternoon. Walk or ride to Phoenix Hill in the city centre for the ridge views, then continue to Zaoyuan for the old housing of the Communist leaders and the souvenir stalls. If you have time and energy left, Qingliang Mountain is open until 19:30 and its relics and memorial facilities reward a slower hour.
Evening. Finish at Pagoda Mountain, open until 19:00, and climb the tower for the view over the city as the light goes. If you are on a two-day tour from Xi'an and have Chinese, the Yan'an Nursery play can close the evening instead.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Yan'an Revolution Memorial free to enter?
Yes. Entry is free, and the museum is open from 08:00 to 16:00, with no entry after 15:30.
How much does it cost to climb Pagoda Mountain?
Admission is ¥65, with an additional ¥10 to climb the tower. It is open from 07:30 to 19:00.
Can I visit Nanni Bay and the Mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor in the same day?
They lie in different directions and neither is in the city centre, so it is better to give each its own half-day. Nanni Bay is open 08:30 to 17:30 and is free; the mausoleum is open 07:30 to 18:30 and charges ¥91.00 in peak season and ¥51.00 off-season.
Do I need Chinese to enjoy the Yan'an Nursery play?
The source material states that if you do not understand Chinese you can forget about enjoying it. Tickets are ¥150 and it is usually an extra on the two-day tours from Xi'an.
Decide which of these you want most, check the current hours and ticket prices, and build your days around the sites that sit closest together.