Stand on Fushang Street in the late afternoon and the Shangdang Gate rises above the traffic, its Ming-era brickwork catching the low sun while buses 5 and 5A pull past below. This is the centre of Changzhi, a city on the southern section of the Taihang Mountains in southeastern Shanxi, where the old and the everyday sit close together.
Changzhi suits travellers who are already in Shanxi and want mountain scenery, temple architecture and twentieth-century history without a crowd. The city is reached by the Taiyuan–Jiaozuo high-speed railway, the Taiyuan–Jiaozuo Railway or the Handan–Changzhi Railway, and Changzhi Wangcun Airport lies 7.5 kilometres north of the city. Four controlled-access highways and three national highways pass through, and a bus and taxi network covers the urban districts.
This guide covers the sights named in the source material, with the practical details you need to string them into a day or two. Note that winters here are cold and very dry, while most of the year's rain falls from June to August, so pack accordingly.
Top things to do in Changzhi
1. Taihangshan Grand Canyon
A AAAAA Tourist Attractions of China site in Daxiagu Town, Huguan County, and the grandest landscape in the area. Take the special tourist bus from the Huguan County Seat North Bus Station and get off at the visitor centre. Do not confuse it with the similarly named Taihang Grand Canyon in Linzhou, Henan Province.
Combine it with the other mountain and cave sights in the surrounding counties if you have a second day, and call +86 400 0710999 for enquiries.
2. Shangdang Gate
This old gate at 15 Fushang Street, Luzhou District, is a major historical landmark and is often seen as a symbol of the city. The first gate was built during the Sui Dynasty as part of a local government office and was destroyed by the Jurchens in the 12th century; the current structures date from the Ming Dynasty. It is free to visit and open 08:00–18:00.
Bus nos. 5, 5A and 14 stop nearby, and the Changzhi Museum is also on the no. 5 and 5A routes, so the two pair well in one afternoon.
3. Huangya Cave Cultural Tourism Area
More than a geological park, this is also an important historical site. During the Second World War the Communist-led Eighth Route Army set up a military base here, including the army's first armaments factory, and in November 1941 the forces at the base fought off a Japanese attack despite being outnumbered six to one. The former military base is now one of the key attractions in the park.
It sits at 168 Shangchiyu Village, Huangyadong Town, Licheng County. Take a train or bus no. 818 to Licheng County, then bus no. 808 from Licheng Bus Station to the final stop. Opening hours are 08:00–18:00 with no entry after 17:00. Standard adult tickets are ¥120; children between 7 and 18 and adults between 60 and 64 pay ¥60; children aged 6 or under and adults aged 65 or over enter free. Enquiries: +86 355 5512000.
4. Changzhi Museum
The city museum at 9 Yingbin Street, Luzhou District, and a sensible first stop for context before you head into the mountains. It is free, open 09:00–17:00 with no entry after 16:30, and closed on Mondays except when Monday is a public holiday.
Reach it on bus nos. 5, 5A, 101 or 102, or Tourist Bus 1. Enquiries: +86 355 3553071; bookings: +86 355 3553682.
5. Faxing Temple
Faxing Temple was built in the first year of the Sixteen States Period (AD 401) and was formerly located in Cilin Mountain Col, Eldest Son County. It now stands on Cuiyun Mountain in Cuizhuang Town, southeast of Eldest Son County, covering an area of 40,000 square metres.
The temple faces south and retains a Tang Dynasty layout, with the scriptures and stupa in front and the central axis running through the Bulieshan gate, pagoda, round sense hall and Bodhisattva hall, flanked by the Guan Gong Hall, Jia LAN Hall and stele corridor. Seventeen inscriptions from the Tang to the Qing Dynasty record its history and establishment, so allow time to read them.
6. Xiantang Mountain
A mountain in the county countryside, named in the source material as a sight worth the trip. It rewards those already travelling the rural counties around Changzhi rather than a dedicated journey on its own.
Pair it with the other county sights on the same loop, and check conditions before setting out in the wetter summer months.
7. Lingkong Mountain
Another of the named mountain sights in the area, best treated as part of a day in the hills rather than a quick stop. The city sits along the southern section of the Taihang Mountains, and the terrain here is mountainous and hilly, so build in travel time.
Combine it with Xiantang Mountain if you are touring the counties, and start early so you are not descending at dusk.
8. Drifting adventure
Drifting is one of the outdoor activities the area is known for, and the rivers fed by summer rain make June to August the natural window. Expect to get thoroughly wet.
Book through your accommodation or a local operator, and keep a dry change of clothes in the car.
9. Spelunking
Caving is another of the region's outdoor pursuits, and the karst country around the Taihang Mountains is where you will find it. It suits travellers who want a guided underground trip rather than a walking day.
Go with a guide who knows the system, and avoid the period right after heavy rain.
10. Rock climbing
The cliffs of the Taihang Mountains make this a genuine climbing area. It is a half-day or full-day commitment and best arranged locally, since routes and access change.
Pair it with a stay in the Huguan County area so you are close to the rock, and check the forecast before committing.
11. Visiting a wetland park
A wetland park is one of the gentler ways to spend an afternoon here, and a good option if you want scenery without a long climb. It works well as a rest day between the mountain sights.
Go in the cooler hours of the morning or late afternoon, and bring water, as the climate is rather dry outside the summer rains.
12. Taihang Mountain Music Festival
Held on the last weekend in July, this is the one fixed date in the Changzhi calendar and worth planning a trip around if live music in a mountain setting appeals. July is also the warmest and wettest month, so pack for both heat and rain.
Since it falls on a single weekend, sort out transport and accommodation well ahead, and use the rest of the trip for the canyon and the county sights.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Changzhi Museum on Yingbin Street when it opens at 09:00, using bus nos. 5, 5A, 101 or 102 or Tourist Bus 1. Give it until late morning, then walk or ride to the Shangdang Gate on Fushang Street, open 08:00–18:00 and free, and look at the Ming-era structures that give the city its symbol.
Afternoon: Take the special tourist bus from the Huguan County Seat North Bus Station to the Taihangshan Grand Canyon and spend the afternoon in the gorge, alighting at the visitor centre. Remember it is not the similarly named canyon in Linzhou, Henan Province.
Evening: Return to Luzhou District and eat near Fushang Street, where the gate is lit and the bus network still runs. If you have a second day, give it to Huangya Cave Cultural Tourism Area in Licheng County, which needs the full day.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Changzhi?
By rail on the Taiyuan–Jiaozuo high-speed railway, the Taiyuan–Jiaozuo Railway or the Handan–Changzhi Railway, or by air into Changzhi Wangcun Airport, which is 7.5 kilometres north of the city. Four controlled-access highways and three national highways also pass through, and there is a bus and taxi network within the city.
When is the best time of year to visit?
The climate is rather dry and monsoon-influenced, with cold, very dry winters and very warm, somewhat humid summers. Most of the annual rain falls from June to August, and the Taihang Mountain Music Festival takes place on the last weekend in July. Annual sunshine hours are 2,400–2,600 and the frost-free period is 160–180 days.
How much do the main sights cost?
The Shangdang Gate and the Changzhi Museum are free. At Huangya Cave Cultural Tourism Area, standard adult tickets are ¥120; children between 7 and 18 and adults between 60 and 64 pay ¥60; children aged 6 or under and adults aged 65 or over enter free.
Do I need to book the Taihangshan Grand Canyon in advance?
The source material does not state a booking requirement, but it does give an enquiry line, +86 400 0710999, and the route in is the special tourist bus from the Huguan County Seat North Bus Station, so it is worth calling ahead to confirm the bus and entry arrangements.
Work out which of the county sights you want most, check the bus routes and the July festival weekend, and start planning your trip to Changzhi.