Stand on Zhonghua Road and the White Pagoda rises above the trees of the park that was laid out around it in 1908. It is the tallest ancient pagoda in the northeast of China, and it sits in the middle of an ordinary city street, which is the first sign that Liaoyang wears its long history lightly.
The city suits travellers who are already in Liaoning and want a day or two of Liao-dynasty pagodas, temple courtyards and Manchu capital remains without the crowds of a larger destination. It is about an hour south of Shenyang by car, which makes it easy to combine with the provincial capital.
This guide covers the sights named in the source material, the food streets worth walking in the evening, and how to string the best of them together if you only have one day.
Top things to do in Liaoyang
1. White Pagoda Park
The White Pagoda dates to the Liao Dynasty and is the tallest ancient pagoda in the northeast of China. The park around it was constructed in 1908, and the pagoda still stands at the centre of the city on Zhonghua Road.
From the train station, take bus 7. Entry is free, so it works well as a first stop before walking on to the temple next door.
2. Guangyou Temple Scenic Area
This is one of the oldest Buddhist sites in China, first constructed during the Eastern Han Dynasty and expanded in 1161 after receiving the favour of the Emperor. The army of Tsarist Russia burned the site in the early 1900s, and it has since been restored. The complex covers some 60,000 square metres.
Inside is a large statue of Sakyamuni Buddha made of camphor wood and gilded with gold, standing some 21.48 metres high. Entry is free. It sits beside the White Pagoda, so combine the two in one visit.
3. Liaoyang City Museum
The museum opened in 1985 and was graded as a AA class site by the Provincial Tourism Bureau in 2002. It covers 31,450 square metres over five galleries and holds 4,000 items from the neolithic through to the Ming and Qing dynasties.
It is on Zongxin Road in Wensheng District; from the train station take bus 23 or 16. Entry is free.
4. Dongjing City
Liaoyang became the capital of the Manchurian Late Jin Empire in 1621, and an imperial palace called Dongjing, or "East Capital", was built here. A few walls and gates of the old palace remain.
It is in Taizihe District. Pair it with Dongjing Mausoleum, which lies in the same district.
5. Dongjing Mausoleum
The first Manchurian Emperor, Nurhachu, built this mausoleum in 1624 to house the remains of his grandfather, wife, brother, son and others. In total ten people of Nurhachu's family were placed here.
It is in Taizihe District, so it fits naturally into the same outing as Dongjing City.
6. Cao Xueqin Memorial Hall
Cao Xueqin wrote "The Dream of Red Mansions", one of the four most famous novels of China, and Liaoyang has been put forward as the likely location of his birth. A memorial to him opened in Liaoyang in 1995.
It is at 2 Woshi Hutong; take bus 20. Entry is free, and it is just 100 metres from the Wang Erlie Memorial Hall, so see both together.
7. Wang Erlie Memorial Hall
Wang Erlie was a court official born in Liaoyang during the reign of the Emperor Qianlong. He achieved excellent scores in his Imperial exams and went on to become one of the richest and most powerful people in China. The museum tells the story of his life and has some English language translations.
It is in Baita District; take bus 20. Entry is free, and it is 100 metres from the Cao Xueqin Memorial Hall.
8. Longfeng Mountain Scenic Spot and Temple
Longfeng temple dates to the time of the Tang Dynasty Emperor Zhenguan, over 1,300 years ago, and was renovated during the Ming and Qing dynasties. According to inscriptions in the temple, Tang Emperor Taizong visited the site, as did the Emperor Qianlong of Qing in the 44th year of his rule. It was damaged during the Cultural Revolution and has since been restored.
It is in Xiadahe Town, about 35 kilometres from the city centre, so allow time for the trip out.
9. Qingfeng Temple
Qingfeng Temple is a provincial cultural relic, built in the fifth year of the Ming Dynasty in 1571 and historically known as "the first temple outside the Shanhai Pass". It was rebuilt in the Qing Dynasty, remains largely intact, and is one of the city's key ancient buildings.
10. Yanzhou Town
The mountain city of Yanzhou was built with large stone walls on the east, west and north sides, with the south side facing the river. It has a perimeter of 2,500 metres and a commanding platform built on the high point of the city, surrounded by an inner city 45 metres long and 35 metres wide.
11. Li Zhaolin House
The former residence of General Li Zhaolin is in Houtun Village, Dengta City, and covers an area of 2,080 square metres. It is open from 8:00 to 17:00.
12. Hehuogou Provincial Level Forest Park
Part of the Qianshan mountain range, Hehuogou Park contains canyon scenery with waterfalls, natural springs and ancient pine trees. It is 11 kilometres southeast of Liaoyang, near Hanling Town.
13. Liaoyang Zoological Park
The zoological park is in the Longshi Scenic Tourism Zone South Park area of Hongwei District. It is open from 08:30 to 18:00.
14. Gongchangling Skiing Field
The skiing field is at the Tanghe scenic spot in Gongchangling District. The area around Gongchangling, just east of the main city, is also noted for its hot spring resort and golf course.
15. Shopping streets and Korean BBQ
The downtown shopping area holds a total of five malls and pedestrianised streets with many Chinese brand name stores, and the streets have many regional snacks. Within the shopping area are two streets with many Korean BBQ restaurants, Er-dao jie and Xingyun da jie.
Come in the evening, when the pedestrian streets are at their liveliest, and choose one of the two Korean BBQ streets for dinner.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at White Pagoda Park, taking bus 7 from the train station, then walk next door to the Guangyou Temple Scenic Area to see the camphor wood Sakyamuni Buddha. Both are free.
Afternoon: Take bus 23 or 16 to the Liaoyang City Museum on Zongxin Road and work through its five galleries. If you have time left, take bus 20 to the Cao Xueqin Memorial Hall and the Wang Erlie Memorial Hall, which are 100 metres apart.
Evening: Head to the downtown shopping area, walk the pedestrianised streets for regional snacks, and have dinner on Er-dao jie or Xingyun da jie, the two streets known for Korean BBQ restaurants.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Liaoyang?
Liaoyang is approximately one hour south of Shenyang, the provincial capital, by car. Within the city, buses connect the main sights: bus 7 from the train station to White Pagoda Park, and buses 23 or 16 to the Liaoyang City Museum.
Which sights are free to enter?
White Pagoda Park, the Guangyou Temple Scenic Area, the Liaoyang City Museum, the Cao Xueqin Memorial Hall and the Wang Erlie Memorial Hall are all listed as free.
What can I do outside the city centre?
Longfeng Mountain Scenic Spot and Temple is in Xiadahe Town, about 35 kilometres from the city centre. Hehuogou Provincial Level Forest Park is 11 kilometres southeast near Hanling Town. Gongchangling, just east of the main city, is noted for its hot spring resort, golf course and ski centre, and the Gongchangling Skiing Field is at the Tanghe scenic spot.
Where should I eat in the evening?
The downtown shopping area has pedestrianised streets with many regional snacks, and two streets within it, Er-dao jie and Xingyun da jie, have many Korean BBQ restaurants.
Work out which of these fit your days, check the bus routes from the train station, and you have enough to start planning a trip to Liaoyang.