Step off a train at Huaihua railway station and the city's role becomes clear at once: this is a rail junction in the mountains of western Hunan, where lines from several directions meet. The central urban area itself is low-key, and the places worth your time lie out in the counties of the prefecture, reached by bus and in some cases by train.
Huaihua suits travellers who are drawn to Dong and Miao culture, old commercial towns and mountain scenery rather than big-city sights. The prefecture is the central region of the Dong ethnic population, and its old towns and villages reward a slow, unhurried visit.
This guide covers the sights named in the source material, ordered with the strongest first, plus a plan for a single day.
Top things to do in Huaihua
1. Hongjiang old commercial town (洪江古商城)
A Ming dynasty town that flourished in the old days as a commercial centre. Among its buildings is an ancient brothel with waxwork figures, which explains a good deal about local life in imperial China.
Give it time rather than rushing through; the town is the kind of place where the detail of the old commercial streets is the point. It sits in Hongjiang City, so plan it as the anchor of a day in that part of the prefecture.
2. Qianyang Ancient City (黔阳古城)
A famous cultural city with a history of more than 2,200 years, and one of the best-preserved ancient cities of the Ming and Qing Dynasties in China. It is on Gucheng Road in Hongjiang City.
Ticket sales stop at 16:30, so arrive well before then to have time inside. Because it lies in the same city as Hongjiang old commercial town, the two make a natural pairing.
3. Gaoyi Ancient Village (高椅古村)
One of the top ten ancient villages in China, named because it is surrounded by mountains on three sides and faces water on one side, with terrain said to resemble a Taishi chair. It is in Gaoyi Village, Gaoyi Township, Huitong County.
It is open Monday to Friday, 08:00–16:30, so a weekday visit is the safe choice. Admission is free.
4. Wanfo Mountain (万佛山)
A scenic area known to geographers as the "Green Great Wall", made up of five major scenic spots: Wanfo Mountain, Shenxian Cave, Qixing Mountain, Jiangjun Mountain and Ziyun Mountain. Within it are features named Single Rock, Seven Star Ancient Temple, Blessed Cave, Lion Watching the Moon, Optical Pillar, Beauty Watching Her Husband, Shenzhou Conch, Golden Turtle Looking for Food, the Natural Magpie Bridge and the Thirty-Six Bends of the Forest.
It is in Taipingyan Village, Wanfoshan Town, Tongtong Dong Autonomous County. This is a full outing rather than a quick stop, so set aside the better part of a day.
5. Tongdao Dong Autonomous County (通道侗族自治县)
Here you can visit Kam people, whose language belongs to a branch of the Tai-Kadai linguistic family and who are distant relatives of the Thai people.
This is one of the main ethnic destinations of the prefecture and lies outside the central urban area, so treat it as a trip in its own right rather than an afternoon's detour.
6. Jingzhou Miao and Dong Autonomous County (靖州苗族侗族自治县)
This county is a place to visit Hmong people, whose language belongs to a branch of the Hmong-Mien linguistic family.
Like Tongdao, it sits away from the city proper and is reached by bus or, in some cases, by train. Combine it with your wider plans for the prefecture rather than trying to fit it into a city day.
7. Xiangshipo Forest Park (象狮坡森林公园)
An ideal place for vacation and leisure, where you can enjoy Dong cultural customs and Dong architectural art such as drum towers, stilted buildings, wind and rain corridors, village gates and pavilions. It is next to Longmen Villa on National Highway 320 in Zhijiang Dong Autonomous County.
Because the architecture and customs are the draw, allow time to walk rather than pass through. It works well as a slower day between the old towns.
8. Huaihua Zhijiang Airport museum
The airport is of some historic importance: during World War II it was known as Chihkiang Airfield and was used by the U.S. air force. There is now a museum about the airport's history.
The airport lies in Zhijiang Dong Autonomous County, so if you are passing through that county for Xiangshipo Forest Park, the museum is a sensible addition to the same outing.
9. Su Yu historic sites, Huitong County
Su Yu, a military commander and politician, was born in Huitong County, and it is possible to visit historic sites related to his life.
Huitong County is also where Gaoyi Ancient Village lies, so the two can be worked into one day in the county.
10. Wuxi Cultural Plaza·Qianhe Lake (五溪文化广场·千鹤湖)
A square on Lulin Road in Hecheng District, with a themed sculpture totem pole called "Five Streams Culture" at its centre, created and designed by the Chinese sculptor Zhu Weijing.
It is suitable for night running, which makes it a good way to end a day back in the city rather than a daytime destination.
11. Huaihua Yingfeng Park (怀化迎丰公园)
A park on Jinxi North Road in Hecheng District, with green trees and luxuriant flowers and plants, and an exquisitely designed Spanish-style roller skating rink.
It is one of the few low-key sights in the central urban area, so keep it for time you are spending in the city itself.
12. Huaihua Jade Palace (怀化玉皇宫)
Located 180 metres due north of No. 9 Wuling Road in Hecheng District, in the only national forest park in Huaihua City. The air is fresh, and pilgrims from hundreds of miles around come to burn incense and worship each year.
Pair it with the other central-city sights if you have a spare half-day in Hecheng District.
13. Huaihua Museum
The central urban area has only a few low-key sights, and the Huaihua Museum is one of them.
It is a reasonable first stop if you want context before heading out to the counties, and it keeps you in the city while you organise transport.
14. Wanda Cinema (万达影城)
A cinema on the third floor of Huaihua Wanda Plaza, 200 metres north-west of the intersection of Nanhuan Road and Hutian Avenue in Hecheng District.
Useful on a wet or cold day, or as an evening option when you are based in the city.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start in Hongjiang City at Qianyang Ancient City, arriving early enough to be inside well before ticket sales stop at 16:30. Walk the preserved Ming and Qing streets while the day is fresh.
Afternoon: Move on to Hongjiang old commercial town, the Ming dynasty town that flourished in the old days, and see the ancient brothel with its waxwork figures. The two are in the same city, which makes them the most practical pairing for a single day.
Evening: Return to Hecheng District and finish at Wuxi Cultural Plaza·Qianhe Lake on Lulin Road, where the "Five Streams Culture" totem pole stands at the centre of the square. It is suitable for night running if you still have energy left.
Frequently asked questions
Are the main attractions in Huaihua's city centre?
No. The central urban area has only a few low-key sights such as the Huaihua Museum. The main attractions and ethnic towns are outside the main urban area and in other parts of the prefecture, reached by bus and in some cases by train.
Which ethnic groups can I expect to encounter in the prefecture?
The Dong, Miao, Tujia, Yao and Bai are major native minority groups, and Huaihua is the central region of the Dong ethnic population. In Tongdao Dong Autonomous County you can visit Kam people, and in Jingzhou Miao and Dong Autonomous County you can visit Hmong people.
When should I visit Gaoyi Ancient Village?
It is open Monday to Friday, 08:00–16:30, and admission is free, so plan a weekday visit.
Is there anything of historic interest at the airport?
Yes. During World War II the airport was known as Chihkiang Airfield and was used by the U.S. air force, and there is now a museum about its history.
Decide which county you want to build your trip around, check the bus and train connections, and start planning your days in Huaihua.