Stand on Shantang Street in the late afternoon and the city explains itself: a canal running north toward Tiger Hill, whitewashed houses leaning over the water, stone bridges carrying people in both directions. Suzhou has been a trading and scholarly city on this water for a very long time, and much of what is worth your time sits within walking distance of the old town's canals.
The city suits travellers who like gardens, temples, canals and slow walking more than checklist sightseeing. Its classical gardens are the main draw, and several of the finest are close enough together to visit in a single day.
1. The Humble Administrator's Garden
The largest and most famous of Suzhou's classical gardens, in the northeast corner of the old city on Dongbei St. It is said to have cost a boatload of silver and taken sixteen years to build. Free tours run every five to ten minutes, though they are conducted only in Mandarin; the tour includes a "Chinese marriage", a look at carved tree roots, and a boat ride through the garden canals.
The collection of bonsai trees at the end of the garden furthest from the main entrance is worth the trip on its own. It is open 07:30–17:30, and admission is ¥80, or ¥70 off-season.
2. The Garden of the Master of the Nets
Down a small alley off Fenghuang Rd, just south of Shiquan Jie. Founded in 1140 and rebuilt in 1770, this enclosed complex of house and garden is one of the smallest, most beautiful and most perfectly proportioned in Suzhou. Do not let the small size deceive you: it has enough to occupy you for half a day or more.
On certain evenings there are demonstrations of many traditional performing arts. It is open 07:30–17:00 from March to October and 07:30–16:30 from November to February, and admission is ¥40.
3. The Lingering Garden
One of the largest classical gardens in Suzhou, open 07:30–17:30. Admission is ¥55, or ¥45 off-season. It represents the gardening style of the Yuan Dynasty among the four great gardens of Suzhou.
4. Lion Grove Garden
Just off Lindun Rd, near the Humble Administrator's Garden, so the two combine naturally in one outing. It has an incredible collection of pitted, eroded rocks that were greatly appreciated by classical Chinese scholars, and was originally part of a Buddhist monastery; the gardens are a reminder of the Buddhist story of the lions.
The layout follows many twists and turns, and it is easy to get quite lost in the winding paths. Open 07:30–17:30, admission ¥40, or ¥30 off-season.
5. The Surging Wave Pavilion
Just off Renmin Rd on the south side of the old town, near the Confucian Temple, this is one of the oldest of Suzhou's private or "scholar's" gardens. It is more densely forested than the others, which makes it ideal for hot days when you want to escape the sun.
It is best viewed from within its many pavilions, with windows framing different views. Admission is ¥20.
6. Suzhou Museum
Pair it with the Humble Administrator's Garden and Lion Grove Garden, which are in the same part of the old city.
7. The Couple's Garden Retreat
Quietly hidden in a small lane off Pingjiang Rd and not easy to find: look for the gate at the south end of the zoo's carpark, or, since three sides of the garden face canals, try getting there by boat. Built in the early 20th century by a couple, it leads you from view to view through many small garden rooms, with each window or hall perfectly framing a set of plants, rocks or trees.
Most of the garden consists of covered walkways, so even if it rains you can enjoy it without getting wet. Admission is ¥20.
8. North Temple Pagoda
On Renmin Lu, reachable by bus #4 from the train station, second stop. The peak of the pagoda is Suzhou's most famous and is viewable from the train station itself. A garden and temples are on the grounds. Admission is ¥25.
9. Temple of Mystery
At the east end of the pedestrian shopping area on Guanqian Jie, open 07:30–17:00. This large Taoist hall is perpetually obscured by a curtain of joss smoke from devotees, and it has a large market area with many small shops aimed mainly at devotees or tourists.
The temple was established in the 3rd century and broadened to its present size in the Song Dynasty, when it became a popular spot for travelling magicians and acrobats. Admission is ¥10.
10. Twin Pagodas
On DingHui Temple Ln, open 08:00–17:00. A pair of brick Northern Song Dynasty pagodas stand over the stark remains of an Arhat Temple from the same era. Mostly intact stone pillars carved with floral designs stand at the corners of the foundation, and a stone etching at the rear of the garden helps you fill in the rest.
The grounds are peaceful but feel like a stone graveyard, with fragments of carvings displayed around the outer wall or used as stands for bonsai plants. Admission is ¥8.
11. Ding Hui Temple
Off Fenghuang St, on the same lane as the Twin Pagodas, so the two are easy to visit together. It stands on the site of a Tang Dynasty temple; little more than two huge 300-year-old Ginkgo trees and some stone pillar bases remain from the original complex after it was demolished and a factory built atop it in 1949. Entry is free.
12. Cold Mountain Temple
South of the Grand Canal. Established in the Liang dynasty (502–557 AD), most of the buildings date from the Tang Dynasty except for the five-storey pagoda, which was built later.
13. The Garden of Cultivation
In the northwest corner of the old city, inside the encircling canal. It sits in an ancient block of small alleys and streets, so ask local shopkeepers for help finding it. Make sure to go all the way towards the back inside the garden to see the best part. Admission is ¥10.
14. Former Residence of Poet and Scholar Yu Yue
In the ancient Liuhuafang Block in the central part of the old city near Guanqian St. Cross Renmin Rd to the southwest corner, go south about 100 m along the west side of Renmin Rd, turn west at the KFC, and you will see it on the north side of the alley.
Go all the way towards the back inside the garden to see the best part. This tucked-away place is a little tough to find but worth the effort if you want a quiet, unpretentious spot visited mainly by locals. Entrance and tea cost ¥1.5, or ¥3–7.
15. Tarrying Garden
Outside Changmen Gate. Built in the Ming Dynasty, with many parts rebuilt in the Qing Dynasty. Part of the garden is the Nanmu Hall, with a collection of furniture made of nanmu, a wood prized because it looks good and resists both humidity and decay. The Mandarin Duck Hall is divided into two parts by a meticulously carved partition. Admission is ¥10.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at the Humble Administrator's Garden when it opens, in the northeast corner of the old city. Join one of the free tours, which run every five to ten minutes, then walk to the far end of the garden for the bonsai collection. From there, walk to nearby Lion Grove Garden and let yourself get lost in its winding paths among the eroded rocks.
Afternoon. Visit the Suzhou Museum, then head south to the Garden of the Master of the Nets, down the small alley off Fenghuang Rd. Give it more time than its size suggests, since it can occupy you for half a day or more. If you still have energy, the Surging Wave Pavilion on the south side of the old town is a good late-afternoon stop, and its dense planting makes it a comfortable place to escape the sun.
Evening. Walk Shantang Street along the canal, then finish at the Temple of Mystery at the east end of the pedestrian area on Guanqian Jie, which closes at 17:00, or simply stay on Guanqian Jie for the evening. If your visit falls on a day when the Garden of the Master of the Nets holds its evening demonstrations of traditional performing arts, plan your day around returning there instead.
Which gardens are included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing?
The listing for the Classical Gardens of Suzhou includes nine of the finest gardens, dating from the 11th to the 19th century. Among those named in this guide are the Humble Administrator's Garden, the Garden of the Master of the Nets, the Lingering Garden, the Mountain Villa with Embracing Beauty, the Lion Grove Garden, the Surging Wave Pavilion, the Retreat and Reflection Garden, the Garden of Cultivation and the Couple's Garden Retreat.
Which are the four great gardens of Suzhou?
They are the Humble Administrator's Garden, representing the Song Dynasty style; the Lingering Garden, representing the Yuan Dynasty; the Surging Wave Pavilion, representing the Ming Dynasty; and the Lion Grove Garden, representing the Qing Dynasty.
What is the best time of day to visit a garden?
Several gardens open at 07:30, including the Humble Administrator's Garden, the Lingering Garden and the Lion Grove Garden, so an early start gives you the coolest and quietest hours. The Surging Wave Pavilion is more densely forested than the others and is a good choice on a hot day. The Couple's Garden Retreat is mostly covered walkways, so rain does not spoil it.
How do I reach the gardens in the old city?
Most of the gardens named here sit within the old city and are close to one another: the Humble Administrator's Garden and Lion Grove Garden are near each other, the Surging Wave Pavilion is near the Confucian Temple, and the Couple's Garden Retreat is off Pingjiang Rd. North Temple Pagoda is on Renmin Lu and is reachable by bus #4 from the train station, second stop.
Pick two or three gardens, one temple and one canal-side street, and you have a trip worth planning around Suzhou's water and stone.