Stand on Caoyun Square in Huai'an District and the city's long relationship with the Grand Canal is right in front of you: the waterway that carried grain to the imperial capital, and the museum that explains it, sit side by side. Huai'an is a flat, canal-crossed city on the Jianghuai Plain, and much of what is worth your time clusters in the old district around Zhenhuai Building and the lanes of Hexia.
This guide suits travellers who prefer surviving yamen halls, pagodas and writers' residences to theme-park spectacle, though the city has one large theme park too. It covers the sights and museums named in the source material, with the practical details you need to string them into a day.
Top things to do in Huai'an
1. Huai'an Government House
One of the very few surviving examples in China of a prefecture-level yamen, first built in 1370 and restored several times after fire damage. The complex gives you a sense of how imperial-era local administration was laid out and run.
It stands at 38 Dongmen Street in Huai'an District. Bus 69 stops at either Shangban Street or Caoyun Xiaoqu, both close by, so you can pair it easily with the China Water Transport Museum on the same outing.
2. China Water Transport Museum
Huai'an has long been an important port on the Grand Canal, and this museum tells the story of the city's role in the transportation of grain to the imperial capital. It is the clearest introduction to why the city mattered.
It is on Caoyun Square in Huai'an District, opposite Huai'an Government House. Take bus 69 and get off at Caoyun Xiaoqu. It opens 08:30-12:00 and 13:30-17:30, with a midday break, so plan around the lunchtime closure.
3. Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall
This hall contains exhibitions about the life and work of Zhou Enlai, one of the most prominent political figures in China during the 20th century. It is a substantial, free stop and the natural starting point for the Zhou Enlai sights in the city.
It is at 2 Yonghuai Road in Huai'an District. Take bus nos 8, 10, 63, 67 or 618 and get off at the Huai'an Foreign Languages School bus stop, or take tram Line 1 to either Memorial Hall Station or Huaxi Road Station. Summer hours are 08:30-17:00; in other seasons it closes at 16:30.
4. Zhou Enlai's former residence
Zhou Enlai was born in this house in 1898 and lived here for the first 12 years of his life. Seeing the modest lanes he grew up in adds context that the memorial hall alone cannot give.
It is at 7 Fuma Lane in Huai'an District; bus nos 62, 65, 619 or y65 stop at the bus stop named after the residence. Admission is free. Summer hours are 08:30-17:00, and 08:30-16:30 in other seasons.
5. Wu Cheng'en's former residence
Wu Cheng'en, the acclaimed author of Journey to the West, lived here during the Ming Dynasty. The residence sits in Old Hexia Town, so you get the historic lanes around it as part of the visit.
It is at 12 Datong Lane, Old Hexia Town, Huai'an District. Take bus nos 62, 65, 69 or y65 to Zhuxiang Street, then walk about 500 metres down the street to Datong Lane. Summer hours are 08:30-18:00 and winter hours 08:30-17:30.
6. Zhenhuai Building (old city gate)
Constructed during the 12th century as a libation hall for the Jin army, the building was rebuilt in the 19th century and given its present name, which literally means "building that controls the Huai River". There is a small museum inside.
It is at 2 Zhenhuai Road East in Huai'an District, and many bus routes stop at the Zhenhuai Building bus stop, including nos 10, 20, 60, 61, 63, 65, 66, 67, 69, 606 and 618. It opens 7:30-18:30, making it a convenient anchor at either end of a day in the old district.
7. Huai'an Museum
A museum about the history and culture of Huai'an, and a useful orientation stop if you want the wider story before visiting individual sites. Admission is free.
It is at 1-146 Jiankang Road West in Qingjiangpu District. Take bus nos 4, 16, 32, 86, 88 or 116 and get off at either Jiankang Road West or the South Campus of the No. 1 Elementary School of Huaiyin Teacher's College. It opens 09:00-12:00 and 13:30-17:30, so avoid arriving over the midday break.
8. Wentong Pagoda
The pagoda was built in 708, when it was known as the Zunsheng Pagoda, and was renamed the Wentong Pagoda in 1629 following a major renovation. An earthquake in 1668 caused severe damage and it had to be almost completely rebuilt.
It is at 46 Ximen Street in Huai'an District, in the middle of a park alongside the Wentong High School. Catch bus nos 65 or y65 and get off at the bus stop named Pharmaceutical Company.
9. The place where Zhou Enlai studied as a child
This was a family school operated by Zhou Enlai's elder relatives, where he attended classes with his younger brother and his two younger sisters. It is a quieter counterpart to the better-known Zhou Enlai sites.
It is at 174 Caoyun Road West in Qinghe District. Take bus no. 30 and get off at the bus stop named after this place. Admission is free.
10. Iris Chang Memorial Hall
Dedicated to the memory of Iris Chang (1968-2004), the Chinese American writer whose 1997 book The Rape of Nanking did much to raise public awareness of the Nanjing Massacre. The hall has exhibitions on Chang's life and the Nanjing Massacre.
It is at 502 Nanchang Road North in Huaiyin District. Take bus 107, 117 or special bus 07 and get off at the Oriental Maternal Love Park. It opens 09:00-11:30 and 14:00-17:00, and is closed on Mondays, so check the day before you go.
11. Huai'an Zoo
Established in 1958 and moved to its present location in 2012, the zoo holds both imported and native animals. It is a straightforward option if you are travelling with children.
It is at 198 Jiankang Road West in Qingjiangpu District, close to Huai'an Museum on the same road. Catch bus nos 22 or 86 for the north gate, or bus nos 3, 5, 22, 48 or 86 for the south gate. It opens 08:00-16:30.
12. Journey to the West Amusement Park
A major theme park based on the characters and stories in Wu Cheng'en's novel, Journey to the West. It is the city's largest single attraction and worth a half day or more if the novel means anything to you.
It is at 6 Xiyou Avenue in the Huai'an Economic and Technological Development Zone; bus nos 30, 58, 91, Tourist Bus 7 and Tourist Bus 9 serve it. It opens 10:00-21:00, the ticket office closes at 19:30, and visitors must enter the gate no later than 20:00. Entry after 16:00 is cheaper, and seniors aged 70 or over and children under 1.2 metres in height enter free at all times.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Huai'an Government House on Dongmen Street, then cross to the China Water Transport Museum on Caoyun Square. Both are served by bus 69, and the museum's 08:30-12:00 window fits neatly before lunch.
Afternoon: Head to Zhou Enlai's former residence on Fuma Lane, then continue to the Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall on Yonghuai Road. If time allows, walk or ride to Zhenhuai Building, which stays open until 18:30.
Evening: Finish in Old Hexia Town at Wu Cheng'en's former residence, which in summer stays open until 18:00, and take your time over the lanes around Datong Lane afterwards.
Frequently asked questions
Which sights in Huai'an are free to enter?
Huai'an Museum, the Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall, Zhou Enlai's former residence and the place where Zhou Enlai studied as a child are all free. The China Water Transport Museum, Huai'an Government House, Wu Cheng'en's former residence, Zhenhuai Building and Huai'an Zoo charge admission, and Journey to the West Amusement Park has tiered pricing.
When should I avoid visiting the museums?
Several sights close over midday. The China Water Transport Museum and Huai'an Museum both break between 12:00 and 13:30, and the Iris Chang Memorial Hall closes between 11:30 and 14:00 and is shut on Mondays. Plan indoor visits for the morning or mid-afternoon.
How do I reach the main sights without a car?
Buses cover most of them. Bus 69 serves the Caoyun Square area and Huai'an Government House, tram Line 1 reaches the Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall, and bus nos 62, 65, 69 and y65 serve the Old Hexia Town area around Wu Cheng'en's former residence.
Do opening hours change with the seasons?
Some do. The Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall and Zhou Enlai's former residence both close at 17:00 in summer and 16:30 in other seasons, and Wu Cheng'en's former residence closes at 18:00 in summer and 17:30 in winter. Check before you set out.
Pick the sights that match your interests, note the midday closures and seasonal hours, and you have everything you need to start planning your days in Huai'an.