Stand on the path above Shang Lake in the late afternoon and the water opens out below you, ringed by low hills and bamboo, with the towers of Changshu on the far shore. It is a quiet, green city on the Yangtze River Delta, part of Suzhou's jurisdiction in Jiangsu province, and it rewards travellers who prefer gardens, hills and lakeside walks to crowds.
Changshu suits slow travellers, walkers and anyone using Suzhou as a base for a side trip. The city has a long history as a market town for rice, corn, wheat, tea and mulberry leaves, and its sights sit close together on the western edge of town.
This guide covers the main places to see, how to string them into a single day, and a few practical questions.
Top things to do in Changshu
1. Shang Lake Scenic Area
Shang Lake Scenic Area is the anchor of a visit to Changshu: a lake park with a bamboo boat ride through the Crane Reserve and a bamboo water forest. It is advertised as similar to Hangzhou's West Lake but with far fewer tourists, and it works best as a relaxed half-day rather than a checklist stop.
Take bus routes 116 or 117 to reach it on Wai Xi San Huan Road in Yushan Town. Opening hours shift with the seasons, so check before you go, and note the entrance fee. You can get lunch at Kingrace Hotel afterwards.
2. Yu Mountain National Forest Park
Yu Mountain National Forest Park gives you the best views in the area. Partway up there is a "Great Wall"-style path with decent views of the city and the scenic area below, and from the summit you look out over tree-covered slopes, the city and Shang Lake. An old temple sits at the top.
The park has several entry points; the closest to the city centre is the South Entrance, reached by bus nos. 5, 8, 9, 110, 113, 114 or 116 to Yanzi's Tomb, then bus no. 118 or 128 to get up the hill. Most visitors ride up rather than walk, since the walk itself is not particularly interesting. About two-thirds of the way up there is an entrance fee that applies whether you walk or drive. For the descent, walk down through the scenic tea plantations or return by car.
3. Shajiabang Scenic Area
Shajiabang Scenic Area lies out in Shajiabang Town and is reached by bus routes 5 and 342. It is the third of the city's larger scenic draws and is worth adding if you have more than a day.
Ticket prices differ between high and low season, so check the current rate before setting out.
4. Fangta Tower Park
Fangta Tower Park is one of the city's gardens and parks, and pairs naturally with the other green spaces on the western side of town.
5. Yushan Park
Yushan Park sits at the foot of the hill of the same name, making it a sensible starting or finishing point for a walk up Yu Mountain National Forest Park.
6. The Zengs' Garden
The Zengs' Garden is one of Changshu's classical gardens, in the same cluster as the Zhaos' Garden and the Yan Garden.
7. The Zhaos' Garden
The Zhaos' Garden is another of the city's gardens, best visited as part of the same stroll as the Zengs' Garden.
8. The Yan Garden
The Yan Garden completes the trio of gardens in the city, and is easy to combine with the other two in a single afternoon.
9. Xingfu Temple
Xingfu Temple is listed among the city's archaeological sites and is one of the places of worship you can visit in Changshu, where local people generally follow Buddhism, Taoism, Protestantism and Catholicism.
10. Zhongyong's Tomb
Zhongyong's Tomb is one of the archaeological sites in the city, and sits in the same part of town as the hill parks.
11. Yanzi's Tomb
Yanzi's Tomb is both a site in its own right and the landmark you ask for when finding the South Entrance of Yu Mountain National Forest Park, since buses to the park stop here.
12. Changshu Christian Church
Changshu Christian Church is the city's Protestant church, and a straightforward stop if you are interested in the city's religious life alongside its temples.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Yanzi's Tomb, then enter Yu Mountain National Forest Park through the South Entrance and ride up the hill. Stop at the "Great Wall"-style path on the way for views over the city and the scenic area below, and continue to the summit for the old temple and the outlook over the city and Shang Lake.
Afternoon: Come down through the tea plantations, then spend the rest of the afternoon at Shang Lake Scenic Area, taking the bamboo boat ride through the Crane Reserve and the bamboo water forest. Get lunch at Kingrace Hotel.
Evening: Finish with a quiet walk through the city's gardens — the Zengs' Garden, the Zhaos' Garden and the Yan Garden are close enough to take in together before dinner.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Yu Mountain National Forest Park without a car?
Take bus nos. 5, 8, 9, 110, 113, 114 or 116 to Yanzi's Tomb for the South Entrance, the entry point closest to the city centre. Once inside the park, bus no. 118 or 128 will take you up the hill.
Is it worth walking up Yu Mountain?
Most visitors ride up, by bus, taxi or their own car, because the walk itself is not particularly interesting. If you do walk, note that an entrance fee applies about two-thirds of the way up, whether you are walking or driving.
What is there to do at Shang Lake Scenic Area?
The main draw is a peaceful bamboo boat ride through the Crane Reserve and the lush bamboo water forest. It is a good half-day if you want a Chinese park on a lake without many visitors.
When is the best time to visit Shang Lake Scenic Area?
Opening hours vary through the year, running later in March to May and September to November than in June to August and December to February. Check the current hours before you travel.
With the lake, the hill and the gardens mapped out above, you have enough to start planning your days in Changshu.