From the yard of the church at Alto da Sé you look east over terracotta rooftops to the Atlantic, and west into the steep, tangled streets of the old town. That view is the reason to come to Olinda, and it is only a few minutes' walk from the convents, museums and tiled facades that fill the historic centre.
Olinda suits travellers who like to walk, look at colonial architecture and take their time over churches and small museums rather than tick off large attractions. The centre is compact and best explored on foot, though the hills are steep.
This guide covers the main sights of the historic centre, the museums and churches worth your time, and how to string them together if you have a single day.
Top things to do in Olinda
1. Belvedere Alto da Sé
The belvedere sits in the yard of the Church of Alto da Se. To the east you can see the Atlantic Ocean; to the west, the urban scenery of the town.
It is the natural starting point for a walk through the historic centre, and the view gives you a sense of how the town is laid out across its hills. Combine it with the Olinda Cathedral and the Sacred Art Museum of Pernambuco, both at Alto da Sé.
2. Olinda Cathedral
Also known as the Church of São Salvador do Mundo, this was the first church built in Brazil. It was built in 1540 and was briefly a Protestant church during the Dutch occupation in the 17th century.
It stands at Alto da Sé, so you can visit it in the same stop as the belvedere and the Sacred Art Museum of Pernambuco. It is open 8AM to noon and 2PM to 5PM, and admission is R$10.00.
3. Mosteiro de São Bento
This large monastery was built in 1582 and housed Brazil's first law school. The chapel holds exceptional woodcarvings.
Holy mass is celebrated on Sundays at 10:30 with Gregorian chant, which is worth timing a visit around. Opening hours are 08:00 to 11:00 and 14:00 to 17:00.
4. Convento São Francisco
The Convento São Francisco, built in 1585, is one of the most important buildings of baroque Brazil, alongside the Mosteiro de São Bento. It is a large building containing the convent proper, the Capela de São Roque chapel and the Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Neves church.
It sits on Praça do Carmo, so you can pair it with the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo on the same square. Opening hours are Monday to Friday 07:00 to 11:30, and Saturday 07:00 to 12:00 and 14:00 to 17:00.
5. Igreja da Misericórdia
Built in 1540, this church has fine azulejos, the ceramic tiles typical of Portuguese architecture, and gilded carvings.
It is open 08:00 to 12:00 and 14:00 to 17:00. The tiles and carvings are the reason to step inside rather than just pass the facade.
6. Sacred Art Museum of Pernambuco
Housed in a building that was the former city hall and later the Episcopal palace, the museum holds a rich collection of religious art with pieces dating back to the 16th century.
It is on Rua Bispo Coutinho at Alto da Sé, so it fits neatly into a visit to the cathedral and the belvedere. It is open Tuesday to Friday 09:00 to 13:00 and admission is R$1.
7. Contemporary Art Museum of Pernambuco
The museum's collection includes works by well-known Brazilian artists. The historical building it occupies dates from 1756 and was the only ecclesiastical prison in Brazil during the Inquisition.
It is on Rua 13 de Maio, 149, and is open 08:00 to 12:00 and 14:00 to 17:00. Admission is R$5, or R$2.50 for students.
8. Igreja Nossa Senhora da Graça and Seminário de Olinda
The church and seminary were built in 1549 and stand on the hill above Rua Frei Alfonso Maria.
Opening hours are 08:00 to 11:30 and 15:00 to 17:00. The position on the hill means it works well as part of a walk between the upper and lower parts of the centre.
9. Olinda Regional Museum
The museum recreates scenes of domestic and social life of the residents of Olinda in the 1700s. Displays include colonial furniture, decorative arts, painted ceramic tilework, pictures and Brazilian and Portuguese sacred art.
It is on Rua do Amparo, 128, the same street as restaurants, hotels and art studios, so you can combine a visit with a meal or a look at the studios. It is open Tuesday to Friday 09:00 to 12:00 and 14:00 to 18:00, and Saturday and Sunday 14:00 to 18:00. Admission is R$1.
10. Rua do Amparo
This street concentrates restaurants, museums, hotels and art studios, making it one of the most useful stretches of the historic centre to walk.
Come here when you want a break between sights, or in the evening for dinner. The Olinda Regional Museum and the Puppet Museum are both on or near this street.
11. Mercado da Ribeira
This 18th-century building now houses art galleries and souvenir shops.
It is a practical stop if you want to buy local art or crafts, and it fits easily into a walk through the lower part of the centre.
12. Igreja Nossa Senhora do Amparo
This restored church dates from 1613 and stands on Rua Saldanha Marinho.
It is open 08:00 to 12:00, so it suits a morning walk. Pair it with the other churches in the centre rather than making it a separate trip.
13. Puppet Museum
The Museu do Mamulengo is on Rua de São Bento, 344, and covers the puppet tradition associated with the region.
It is a small stop that pairs well with the Mosteiro de São Bento on the same street.
14. Serenades
Groups of singers and musicians play old traditional songs through the city streets on Friday evenings. There are also year-round Saturday night serenades.
Plan an evening in the centre around this rather than treating it as a fixed attraction, since the groups move through the streets.
15. Carnaval
Olinda's Carnaval is a street party where blocos parade accompanied by frevo and maracatu music. Its most famous representative is the giant dolls carried on the shoulders of the people.
The party runs from Friday evening until Wednesday morning, with the bulk of the crowd filling the streets during the day. If you are looking for accommodation, bear in mind that the most central streets get very noisy.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Belvedere Alto da Sé for the view, then visit the Olinda Cathedral and the Sacred Art Museum of Pernambuco in the same yard. Walk down to the Igreja da Misericórdia while it is open in the morning.
Afternoon: Visit the Mosteiro de São Bento and the Puppet Museum on Rua de São Bento, then the Convento São Francisco on Praça do Carmo. If time allows, add the Contemporary Art Museum of Pernambuco or the Olinda Regional Museum on Rua do Amparo.
Evening: Eat on Rua do Amparo, then stay in the centre for the Friday evening serenades, when groups of singers and musicians play old traditional songs through the city streets.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to see the serenades in Olinda?
Groups of singers and musicians play old traditional songs through the city streets on Friday evenings, and there are also year-round Saturday night serenades.
Can you swim at the beach in Olinda?
The beach in Olinda proper is polluted. Local buses can take you north to Pau Amarelo and Maria Farinha.
What should you know about staying in the centre during Carnaval?
The party runs from Friday evening until Wednesday morning and the most central streets get very noisy, so bear this in mind when looking for accommodation.
Which sights are close enough to combine in one stop?
The Belvedere Alto da Sé, the Olinda Cathedral and the Sacred Art Museum of Pernambuco are all at Alto da Sé. The Convento São Francisco and the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo share Praça do Carmo, and the Mosteiro de São Bento and the Puppet Museum are both on Rua de São Bento.
Use these sights to sketch your own route through the hills of the historic centre, and start planning your days around the hours above.