Stand at the entrance to Xatirə parkı and the arc de triomphe frames the whole sweep of the complex beyond it. Walk a few minutes into the Old City and the scale changes entirely: narrow məhəllə quarters, a mosque from 1606, and a garden that has been shaded by plane trees for centuries.
Ganja suits travellers who are happy to build a day out of streets, parks, tea houses and a handful of specific buildings rather than a tick-list of blockbuster sights. Most of what is worth your time sits within the Old City and the Sloboda, with the large park complex and the ancient site a short ride away.
1. Xatirə parkı (Heydar Aliyev Park Complex)
This is the city's largest green space and the one attraction that can absorb a half day on its own. The arc de triomphe stands at the very entrance, and inside you will find attractions for children, recreational and entertainment venues, and a bicycle rental.
Rent a bicycle rather than walking the whole thing, and combine the visit with the World War II memorial and grave of unknown soldier, which sits within the same complex.
2. Complex of Shah Abbas mosque, with medieval baths and tomb of Javadkhan (Juma Mosque)
Centrally located in the Old City, the mosque was built in 1606 based on the idea of Sheykh Baheddin. Its second name comes from Shah Abbas, who ordered the construction of many mosques during his reign. The complex also takes in medieval baths and the tomb of Javadkhan.
Because it sits in the heart of the Old City, treat it as the anchor of a walking morning and step from here into the surrounding quarters rather than arriving by car.
3. Xan bağı (Khan Bagi, Khan's Garden)
The central city park is one of the oldest parks in Azerbaijan and the Caucasus, with seven hectares of local and foreign trees, plants and flowers. It was founded in 1700, named "Khan Bagi" in 1804 to honour the last ruler of Ganja, Javad Khan, and restored in 2010.
Come on a hot day for the shade of the plane trees, and in the evening for a cup of tea with old-timers in one of the cosy tea houses nearby.
4. Cavadxan küçəsi (Javadkhan street)
A good walking street in the heart of the Old City of Ganja, with fountains and street art monuments along its length. There are many cosy cafes and souvenir stores, which makes it the natural place to break a walk.
Pair it with the Old City sights around City Hall Square and the mosque complex, and use the cafes here for a mid-afternoon stop.
5. Bottle House (Butulkalı ev)
The house of the Jafarovs family of Ganja, created in 1967 by Ibrahim Jafarov in honour of his brother and all World War II soldiers who did not return home or died on war fronts. Instead of bricks, he used bottles for many parts of the house, including the walls, and coloured stones from Sochi. A supposed picture of the brother is part of the walls.
This is a private house, but the family does not mind people taking façade pictures. You can contact his grandson Elshan, who still lives in the house, to hear their story; donations are welcome, and the family can be bargained with for a bigger group.
6. Tomb of Nizami Ganjavi (The Nizami Mausoleum)
Built in 1947 to honour the 12th-century poet Nizami Ganjavi, on the grounds of a former mausoleum, and given its present form in 2013. It stands in Ancient Ganja, the archaeological site of the city that was destroyed during the Mongol invasion in the 13th century.
Combine it with the other remains in Ancient Ganja, including the ancient city site with remains of walls, the main necropol and the rebuilt city gates park, since they are all part of the same area.
7. Aleksandr Nevski Rus Pravoslav Kilsəsi (Russian Church of Alexander Nevsky)
A Russian Orthodox church built in 1887 on the grounds of an ancient cemetery, dedicated to local Christians and Muslims alike. In 1916 it became a cathedral, and its Byzantine style uses bricks known as "plinfa". Between 1935 and 1938 it served as the museum of local history, and it reopened in 1946, with many former icons surviving, including those of St. Alexander Nevsky and Mary Magdalene.
Public worship is performed on Saturdays, Sundays, the Twelves and Great holidays. The dress code is strictly enforced, so do not plan to go in shorts or a skirt.
8. City Hall Square with Museum of Heydar Aliyev
The side of the square has remained the same as it was since the 16th century, while the City Hall itself was built during the Soviet era and is a twin of the Tbilisi Parliament Hall. The Museum of Heydar Aliyev is on the square.
It is an easy addition to an Old City walk, and a useful orientation point before you head on to Cavadxan küçəsi.
9. Gəncə Filarmoniyası (Ganja Philharmonic Society)
The Philharmony was built in 2016 on the site of the castle with khan palace and city walls that stood until the Russian siege in the 19th century. During the Soviet era the historical buildings were destroyed and Cinema Baku was built here; after Azerbaijan attained independence the cinema was torn down to develop the Philharmony.
It is worth a look for the layered history of the site as much as for the building, and it sits close enough to the Old City to fold into the same walk.
10. Chokek Hamam
A medieval 17th-century bath, restored and open to the public. The Vego hotel even has an underground tunnel going from the hotel to this bath.
Visit it as part of the same Old City circuit as the Shah Abbas mosque complex, which also includes medieval baths.
11. German Lutheran Church (Kukla Teatri)
Built in 1885 by the Germans who moved to the city then, in the Sloboda part of Ganja that developed during Russian rule. The church was active until 1941 and was later converted by the Soviets into the State Puppet Theatre, still serving that purpose.
Pair it with the other Sloboda sights, the Promenade, National Flag Square and the European Baths, which are all in the same part of the city.
12. Nizami Gəncəvinin heykəli (Monument to Nizami Ganjavi)
The monument to the poet Nizami Ganjavi; by making it, the author was granted the Stalin Prize.
It is a quick stop rather than a destination in itself, so slot it into a walk along the central streets rather than making a separate trip.
13. Kolkhoz bazaar
The city's bazaar is the place to have a breakfast of fresh fruits, vegetables and dairy products.
Go in the morning while the produce is at its best, then walk it off in Khan's Garden.
14. Ozan məscidi (Ozan Mosque)
The Ozan Mosque sits on Ozan küçü, one of the streets named in the Old City listings.
Combine it with the other named streets in the same quarter, Təbriz küçəsi, Ozan küçəsi and Əttarlar küçəsi, which are best taken as a single wander rather than as separate stops.
15. Ganja State Drama Theatre
The Gəncə Dövlət Dram Teatrı on M.A.Abbaszadə is the city's drama theatre, and an option for an evening if you would rather sit indoors than walk.
If you prefer a cinema, CinemaPlus "Khamsa Park" is on the 4th floor of a shopping mall. Gaming cafés are also popular with locals and cost little per hour, with payment for the tea or beer.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at the Kolkhoz bazaar for a breakfast of fresh fruits, vegetables and dairy products. Walk from there into the Old City and take in the Complex of Shah Abbas mosque, with medieval baths and tomb of Javadkhan (Juma Mosque), followed by City Hall Square with Museum of Heydar Aliyev and Chokek Hamam.
Afternoon. Walk Cavadxan küçəsi for its fountains, street art monuments, cafes and souvenir stores, then rest in the shade of the plane trees in Xan bağı (Khan Bagi, Khan's Garden). If you have the energy left, head out to Xatirə parkı (Heydar Aliyev Park Complex) and rent a bicycle to cover the grounds, including the World War II memorial and grave of unknown soldier.
Evening. Return to Khan's Garden and take a cup of tea with old-timers in one of the cosy tea houses, or see a performance at Ganja State Drama Theatre.
When is the best time of day to visit Khan's Garden?
On a hot day, go for the shade of the plane trees; in the evening, stay for a cup of tea with old-timers in one of the cosy tea houses.
Can I visit the Bottle House?
It is a private house, but the Jafarovs do not mind people taking façade pictures. You can contact the grandson Elshan, who still lives there, to hear the family's story. Donations are welcome, and the family can be bargained with for a bigger group.
What should I wear to the Russian Church of Alexander Nevsky?
The dress code is strictly enforced, so do not plan to enter in shorts or a skirt. Public worship is performed on Saturdays, Sundays, the Twelves and Great holidays.
What is there to do in Ganja with children?
Xatirə parkı (Heydar Aliyev Park Complex) contains many attractions for children, along with recreational and entertainment venues and a bicycle rental. CinemaPlus "Khamsa Park" is on the 4th floor of a shopping mall, and gaming cafés are popular with locals.
Pick the Old City for your first morning, keep the park complex for the afternoon, and you have enough of Ganja's shape in a single day to plan the rest of your stay around.