Fes is a city of two old medina quarters and a much larger modern urban area, all set among hills in northern inland Morocco. The old city is centred on the Fez River, and the Medina of Fes is one of the world's largest and oldest urban pedestrian zones, meaning the historic core is car-free and explored on foot.
For a visitor, the practical split is between Fes el-Bali, the old medina where the main sights and many guesthouses are found, Fes Jdid, the royal administrative district with the Mellah on its south side, and the Ville Nouvelle, the modern area founded during the French colonial era. This guide covers which of these areas to base yourself in, and what each is like for getting around, noise, and access to the sights.
Best areas to stay in Fes
1. Fes el-Bali (the Medina)
Most visitors to Fes will want to stay in Fes el-Bali, also called Old Fes or the Medina, because the main tourist sights are located there and many local residences operate as guesthouses. It is a car-free pedestrian zone, so you move around on foot, and the two parallel main streets are where you will find a handful of hostels near the main gate.
It suits first-time visitors who want to be close to the sights, as well as budget travellers and those looking for traditional guesthouses. One practical point: the streets beyond the two main ones can be frightening at night, so try to arrive well before dark.
2. The Ville Nouvelle
The Ville Nouvelle is the modern urban area, much larger than the two medina quarters and founded during the French colonial era. It is well placed for the youth hostel and offers a different, more everyday setting than the old city.
It suits budget travellers and those who prefer a modern base. The key practical point is distance: the new town is quite a distance from the medina, so you will be relying on taxis to take you in and out every day.
3. Fes Jdid and the Mellah
Fes Jdid, or New Fes, is the royal administrative district where the Royal Palace is still located, with extensive gardens added later, and the Mellah, the Jewish quarter, formed on its south side. It sits alongside the old medina quarters as one of the city's historic areas.
It suits visitors who want to be near the royal district and the Mellah while staying within the historic city rather than the modern town. As with the rest of the old city, expect to explore on foot and plan your movements around the pedestrian layout.
Where to stay on a budget, mid-range or splurge
- Budget: Hostels and simple guesthouses, including places near the main gate of the medina and a youth hostel in the Ville Nouvelle. Expect shared bathrooms, basic rooms, and in some cases a curfew or lockout.
- Mid-range: Traditional riads and dars, often restored courtyard houses, some in residential parts of the medina and some close to the main street. Rooms tend to be larger and more comfortable, with breakfast often included.
- Splurge: Beautiful, comfortable guesthouses known as riads in the medina of Fes el-Bali. They are expensive by Moroccan standards but offer luxury for about the price of a North American chain hotel.
Best area for a first visit
Fes el-Bali is the best area for a first visit, because the main tourist sights are located there and many local residences operate as guesthouses. Staying in the medina puts you within the pedestrian old city rather than relying on taxis from the new town. Just plan to arrive before dark, since the streets beyond the two main ones can be frightening at night.
Frequently asked questions
Should I stay in the medina or the Ville Nouvelle?
Most visitors will want to stay in Fes el-Bali, since the main sights are there and many local residences operate as guesthouses. The Ville Nouvelle is quite a distance from the medina, so staying there means relying on taxis to go in and out every day.
Is the medina car-free?
Yes. The Medina of Fes is one of the world's largest and oldest urban pedestrian zones, so it is a car-free area explored on foot.
What is it like to stay in a riad?
Riads are traditional courtyard houses, and in Fes el-Bali there are beautiful, comfortable guesthouses of this kind. They are expensive by Moroccan standards but offer luxury for about the price of a North American chain hotel.
Are there budget options in the medina?
Yes. There are a few hostels near the main gate, walking down either of the two parallel main streets, though not many of them. It is worth arriving well before dark, as the streets beyond the two main ones can be frightening at night.
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