Dire Dawa sits in eastern Ethiopia on the Dechatu River, at the foot of a ring of cliffs, with the Gorro River touching its western outskirts. The Dechatu is dry for most of the year and becomes a torrent only when it rains. The city grew up around the railway, and it is an industrial centre with several markets and its own airport.
For a visitor, the useful way to picture Dire Dawa is as two settlements separated by the Dechatu River. The north-western part was planned and built very regularly, largely by the engineers of the railway company, and later drew Europeans and Arabs who opened shops and hotels. The south-eastern part grew up around the market. This guide covers which of these areas to base yourself in, what each is like, and how the accommodation options differ by budget.
1. North-western Dire Dawa (Gezira / Kezira)
This is the planned, regularly laid out part of the city on the north-western side of the Dechatu River. It was constructed mostly by the railway company's engineers and first housed railway employees, then attracted French, Greek, Armenian, other European and Arab residents who opened shops and hotels and founded some industry. The imperial railway company played a key role in its early development, particularly the area known as Gezira (or Kezira).
For a first-time visitor this is the most straightforward base: it is the part of town with the established commercial and hotel tradition, and it connects easily to the rest of the city. Because the river between the two halves of town is dry most of the year but can flood when it rains, check conditions if you plan to walk across between the two sides.
2. South-eastern Dire Dawa (around the market)
The other settlement, south-east of the Dechatu River, concentrated around the market and was inhabited mainly by Somali and a few Arab traders. It began to develop further during the 1920s, with inhabitants mostly Gurgura and Oromo. If your interest is in the market life of the city, basing yourself on this side puts you in the middle of it.
This area suits travellers who want to be close to the markets and the everyday commercial life of Dire Dawa rather than the planned railway quarter. As with the north-western side, the Dechatu crossing is the practical link between the two, and it is dry for most of the year.
Where to stay on a budget, mid-range or splurge
- Budget: basic accommodations are in abundance in Dire Dawa, so this is the easiest level to find something without planning far ahead.
- Mid-range: this is where the named places in the sources sit, including hotels close to downtown. Expect a range of quality at this level: some options are described as quite pricey for what they offer, while others are considered extremely reasonable for what you get. Amenities at this level can include balconies, free WiFi and room service.
Best area for a first visit
Base yourself in north-western Dire Dawa, the planned quarter also known as Gezira or Kezira. It is the part of the city built around the railway, with the longest-established tradition of shops and hotels, and it gives you the easiest footing for reaching the rest of Dire Dawa. From there you can cross the usually dry Dechatu River to the market side when you want it.
Which part of Dire Dawa is best for a first-time visitor?
The north-western, planned part of the city, known as Gezira or Kezira. It was laid out by the railway company's engineers and developed as the commercial and hotel quarter, which makes it the simplest base for getting oriented.
Where should I stay if I want to be near the market?
The south-eastern settlement, which grew up around the market and was historically inhabited mainly by Somali and a few Arab traders. Staying there puts you in the market district rather than the planned railway quarter.
Is there anything to watch out for between the two halves of the city?
The Dechatu River separates them. It is dry for most of the year and becomes a torrent only when it rains, so the crossing is normally straightforward but worth checking after heavy rain.
How do I get to Dire Dawa?
The city has its own airport, Dire Dawa Airport, and it also lies on the Addis Ababa–Djibouti railway line, so you can arrive by air or by rail.
Compare live prices for your dates with the booking tools on this page before you decide where to base yourself.