Entry Requirements and Visas
Visa regulations for Iraq depend on your nationality. Citizens of EU member states, Australia, Canada, China (mainland), Japan, New Zealand, Russia, South Korea, Switzerland, the United Kingdom, and the United States may obtain a visa-on-arrival at the airport for a fee of 206,000 Iraqi dinars (approximately 150 USD), which includes a nominal health insurance charge. All other nationalities must arrange a visa in advance.
For advance visas, you can apply at Iraqi embassies located in Beijing, London, Paris, and Washington, D.C. All visa applications are processed in Baghdad, and the process is complicated and time-consuming. Even with an approved visa, entry may be refused upon arrival at the border.
Iraq also operates an electronic visa (eVisa) system for eligible nationalities. You may choose to obtain an eVisa before departure, as some airlines require confirmed visa documentation before boarding.
If you plan to visit Iraqi Kurdistan, note that it has separate visa requirements. A standard Iraqi visa is not valid for Iraqi Kurdistan—you must obtain a separate Kurdish regional visa from an Iraqi Kurdistan representation office. Similarly, Kurdish regional visas are not valid for the rest of Iraq.
Getting There
By Air
Iraq has international airports in Baghdad, Basra, Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, and Najaf. From Europe, Austrian Airlines and Turkish Airlines offer the most reliable connections. Austrian Airlines operates four weekly flights from Vienna to Baghdad International Airport (BIAP), while Turkish Airlines flies twice daily from Istanbul to BIAP and also serves Basra, Erbil, and Sulaymaniyah. Within the Middle East, Royal Jordanian operates two daily roundtrips from Amman, and Emirates and Flydubai offer daily service from Dubai.
Be aware that connecting flight tickets are typically not available when transiting Iraqi airports, meaning you'll need separate tickets for each flight. If your connection is missed due to delays, expect to wait many hours for a replacement flight.
Erbil International Airport is considered the best-connected and safest airport option, with service from most major European and Middle Eastern carriers including Lufthansa, Turkish Airlines, Austrian Airlines, Royal Jordanian, and Etihad.
By Land from Turkey
Driving from Turkey is the safest overland entry point, particularly into northern Iraq. The route from Diyarbakir, Turkey to Zakho, Iraq is accessible either by pre-arranged taxi (approximately USD 150, with drivers typically speaking Kurdish or Arabic) or by taking a bus from Diyarbakir to Silopi and then a taxi to Zakho (a less expensive option).
Your taxi driver will typically handle border paperwork, which involves obtaining stamps and approvals from multiple offices. You must provide a photocopy of your passport for the Turkish side of the border. At the Iraqi border, all persons and vehicles are subject to search by customs officials. Your vehicle will be registered and you must pay a stamp tax—without this, you cannot legally purchase fuel at state-run gas stations. Immigration officers will check your passport, and at some crossings, your fingerprint and/or photograph will be taken.
Northern Iraqi cities considered relatively safe include Zakho, Dohuk, Erbil, and As-Sulaymaniyah, though you should consult with local border police and residents about current conditions.
By Land from Jordan
Overland entry from Amman to Baghdad is possible but challenging. The journey takes 10-15 hours, departing Amman between 05:00 and 10:00, with the border crossing itself taking one to six hours depending on conditions. The route passes through remote eastern Jordanian desert terrain.
The desert highway from the border to Baghdad is considered dangerous, with reports of highway bandits and organized theft targeting unprotected travelers. Travel on this route without adequate communications equipment or security is strongly discouraged. Avoid making stops along the highway; if traffic stalls, continue circulating until it moves. Carry extra fuel and substantial food supplies.
By Land from Kuwait
The Kuwaiti border crossing is as difficult as the Jordanian route, with strict immigration and customs procedures. Kuwaiti officials enforce regulations rigorously, and arbitrary entry or exit denials can occur. This crossing presents similar security concerns as the Jordanian route.
Currency and Money
The official currency is the Iraqi Dinar (IQD). The visa-on-arrival fee is 206,000 dinars (approximately 150 USD).
When traveling overland from Turkey, be prepared to pay taxi fares and border fees. Typical costs include USD 150 for a pre-arranged taxi from Diyarbakir to Zakho, or USD 40 for the final leg to Zakho's city center. Border crossings from Jordan or Kuwait may involve customs duties and fees that vary by circumstances.
If you're renting or purchasing a vehicle, remember that you must pay a vehicle stamp tax at customs to legally purchase fuel at state-run gas stations throughout the country.
Safety and Emergency Contacts
Security conditions vary significantly by region and can change rapidly. Northern Iraq, particularly Iraqi Kurdistan with its separate regional government, is generally safer than other parts of the country. Cities like Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Dohuk, and Zakho are considered relatively safer; however, you should avoid areas such as Mosul and Baghdad without specific, current safety assessments.
When traveling by road, particularly on longer routes like the desert highway from the Jordanian border to Baghdad, significant security risks exist. Avoid traveling alone, use reliable transportation, and do not make stops along dangerous routes. Carry communications equipment and travel with adequate supplies.
The international dialing code for Iraq is +964. Contact your embassy or consulate immediately if you encounter problems. For any emergency, contact local authorities through your hotel or trusted local contacts.
Health
The visa-on-arrival fee includes a nominal health insurance charge. Before traveling to Iraq, consult your doctor about recommended vaccinations and health precautions. Ensure you have travel health insurance that covers medical evacuation if needed, as advanced medical facilities may be limited outside major cities.
Carry any necessary prescription medications in original containers with documentation. Bring a basic first aid kit and medications for common ailments. Water safety can vary, so consider drinking bottled water in areas where you're uncertain about tap water quality.
Staying Connected
Iraq's international dialing code is +964. Mobile phone networks operate in major cities and populated areas. You can purchase local SIM cards from service providers upon arrival at airports or in city centers. Prepaid plans are typically available and can be activated quickly.
Internet connectivity varies by region and provider. Major cities like Baghdad, Erbil, and Basra have internet service providers, though speeds and reliability may be inconsistent. Hotels and cafes in urban areas may offer WiFi, but coverage outside major population centers is limited. Consider having offline maps and important documents downloaded before arrival.
Local Customs and Etiquette
Iraq is a predominantly Muslim country with significant religious minorities including Christians, Mandaeans, Yarsanis, and Yazidis. Arabic and Kurdish are the official languages; Assyrian, Turkmen, and Mandaic are spoken regionally.
When interacting with locals, be respectful of Islamic traditions and practices. Dress modestly, particularly in religious areas and outside major urban centers. Remove shoes when entering homes or mosques. During Ramadan, be sensitive to fasting practices and avoid eating or drinking publicly during daylight hours.
Greetings are important in Iraqi culture. Handshakes are common, though some conservative individuals may prefer to avoid physical contact with opposite genders. Learning basic Arabic greetings such as "As-salamu alaikum" (peace be upon you) is appreciated and shows respect.
Tea and coffee are central to Iraqi hospitality. When offered, it's customary to accept and engage in conversation. Photography requires sensitivity—always ask permission before photographing people, religious sites, or sensitive locations. Certain areas and government buildings are off-limits for photography.
Iraq is ethnically diverse, with populations including Iraqi Arabs, Kurds, Turkmens, Yazidis, Assyrians, and others. Each group has distinct cultural practices. In Kurdish regions, cultural norms may differ slightly from Arab areas, so remain observant and adapt to local customs in each area you visit.