By late evening the embankments are still busy: couples walking off dinner, groups drifting between bars, and the last canal boats returning to their moorings as the sky holds a pale light in summer or drops to full dark in winter.
Saint Petersburg goes out late and goes out seriously. The city has a wide selection of clubs covering rock, pop, jazz, hip hop and R&B, and its bars are generally considered to have the best beer selection of any city in Russia. It suits visitors who want a long evening that starts with a performance or a meal and ends in a club, and it also suits those who prefer a quieter night of opera, ballet or a small venue gig.
Where to go out in Saint Petersburg
1. Dumskaya
Dumskaya street, connected with Lomonosova street, forms a compact neighbourhood of bars and clubs usually referred to simply as "Dumskaya". It sits right by Gostiny Dvor metro station, which makes it easy to reach and easy to leave.
This is the densest concentration of nightlife in the centre and suits a night that moves between several places without long walks or taxi rides. Locals generally rate it below Rubinshteina for the quality of the clubs and the crowd, so treat it as the busier, more mixed option.
2. Rubinshteina street
Rubinshteina street is the other main cluster, closer to Mayakovskaya metro station. It has a similar mix of bars and clubs but a different feel.
Locals usually consider Rubinshteina to be above Dumskaya in terms of the quality of the clubs and the people who go there, and it is the one recommended if you are choosing between the two. It suits a night where you want to settle into one or two places rather than move constantly.
3. Around Nevsky Prospect
Beyond the two main clusters, there are plenty of good clubs throughout the city centre, usually closer to Nevsky Prospect though not limited to it.
This suits a night built around wherever you already are, whether that is a theatre, a restaurant or a walk along the main avenue. Because the options are spread out rather than concentrated, it helps to decide on a specific area before you set out.
4. Opera and ballet theatres
An evening at the opera or ballet is a standard part of a visit. The Mariinsky is the best-known institution for both, but it is by no means the only theatre in the city.
This suits a formal night out, and it can work for families: it is possible to take not-so-small children into some performances if you take a private box, though you need to ask when you buy your tickets. Tickets are sold on each theatre's website, at each theatre's box office, and at city kiosks and shops called Teatralnaya Kassa; blocks of tickets sometimes sell out at the kiosks while seats remain at the theatre, or the reverse, so it is worth checking both if you have a particular performance in mind.
5. Concert halls and small clubs
The music scene is diverse, with several classical, jazz and pop concerts to choose from each week. Several ballet and opera theatres also offer orchestral and recital performances, and there are many small clubs where up-and-coming bands play.
This suits anyone who wants live music without the scale of a major theatre. Tickets for classical, jazz and similar concerts are available at the same Teatralnaya Kassa locations as ballet and opera tickets, while tickets to pop concerts, especially US and European stars on tour, sometimes use exclusive distributors.
6. Rooftops and viewpoints
The best views in the city are from rooftops, such as rooftop bars and restaurants. Rooftop tours are also offered, generally in Russian.
This suits the start or the end of an evening rather than the whole night. If you would rather stay at ground level, climbing the more than 250 steps of St. Isaac's Cathedral also gives good views.
7. Canal boat tours
A boat tour of the canals is a good way to see the city in the summer. The typical route runs through the Moika, out to the Neva to see the Peter and Paul Fortress and the Cruiser Aurora, then in through the Fontanka, sometimes as far as the Mariinsky Theater.
This suits an early part of the night, before dinner or a performance. Tours start at many points along the route and return to their starting point, and hawkers for different boat companies are numerous on Nevsky Prospect; boats may or may not have a cafe and toilet on board, and most tours are in Russian, though English tours can be booked from the Water Tourism Center.
8. Sport fixtures
Football, basketball and hockey all draw evening crowds. FC Zenit play in the Russian Premier League at Krestovsky Stadium on Krestovsky island, reached by taking Metro M3 (Green Line) west towards Begovaya and getting off at Novokrestovskaya. BC Zenit play in the VTB United League at a home ground commonly known as Sibur Arena, near the football stadium. HC SKA play in the Kontinental Hockey League at SKA Arena, reached by taking Metro M2 (Blue Line) south towards Kupchino and getting off at Park Pobedy, from where a shuttle bus runs every five minutes on match days or you can walk about 15 minutes through the park.
This suits a night that is planned around a fixed start time, with the rest of the evening fitted in around it.
How a night out unfolds
The sources do not set out a detailed timetable of when people eat and go out, or how late venues run. What they do show is that an evening is often built around a fixed booking: theatre, opera, ballet and concert performances are ticketed for specific times, and sport fixtures likewise. Canal boat tours are a summer activity, and the White Nights period in summer is when the night skies do not get completely dark for a month, which changes the feel of an evening outdoors. For meeting people, the Telegram groups InterNational Events, SPb Couchsurfing, Say Yes Saint Petersburg, Train Your Brain, World Language Cafe, Mafia English Events and English Meetup Saint Petersburg contain almost daily events for meeting locals or other foreigners, excursions, or practising languages.
Festivals and events worth timing a trip around
- Message to Man — an international documentary, short and animated film festival, held in October, screening many films in English.
Frequently asked questions
Where should I go if I only have one night out?
Choose between Dumskaya and Rubinshteina. Locals usually consider Rubinshteina to be above Dumskaya in terms of the quality of the clubs and the people who go there, so it is the recommended option of the two. Both are near metro stations, Gostiny Dvor and Mayakovskaya respectively.
Do I need to book theatre tickets in advance?
It helps, but it is not the only route. Tickets are sold on each theatre's website, at each theatre's box office, and at city kiosks and shops called Teatralnaya Kassa. Blocks of tickets sometimes sell out at the kiosks while seats remain at the theatre, or the reverse, so it is worth checking both if you have your heart set on a particular performance.
What is the difference between a regular concert ticket and a dance floor ticket?
For pop and rock concerts, unless you buy tickets for the dance floor (tanzpol), you are expected to sit quietly in your seat as if you were at a ballet. Ushers are vigilant about keeping the audience from standing up, dancing or cheering; polite applause is allowed.
Can I see the city by boat at night?
Canal boat tours run in summer and are a good way to see the city. The typical tour goes through the Moika, out to the Neva to see the Peter and Paul Fortress and the Cruiser Aurora, then in through the Fontanka, sometimes as far as the Mariinsky Theater. Most tours are in Russian, but English tours can be booked from the Water Tourism Center.
Decide which part of the evening matters most to you, book what needs booking, and let the rest of the night follow from there.