By early evening the temperature in Asmara drops quickly, and the wide colonial-era streets fill with people walking, greeting neighbours and heading out to eat. A sweater is worth carrying even on a clear day, since the altitude keeps nights cool and the sun's position can make one side of a street feel very different from the other.
Nightlife here is generally quieter than in most other capital cities, but there is a good range of local bars, and the city suits travellers who prefer an unhurried evening of beer, food and conversation over a long crawl between clubs. Eritrea is a beer-drinking country rather than a wine one, and Asmara Beer, a pilsner of around 5% alcohol, is the standard order.
Where to go out in Asmara
1. Local bars in the centre
The centre is where you will find the bulk of the city's drinking places, a mix of small bars and hotel bars rather than large venues. This suits an easy evening built around one or two stops, with food nearby.
Among the bars named by sources are Bar Alfa Romeo and Peacock Bar, both described as close to Alfa Romeo, and Zara Bar, near the Blue Bird restaurant, which is noted as a popular haunt with expats. Details such as opening hours are not given, so check locally before setting out.
2. Hotel bars and discos
Some of the city's nightlife is attached to hotels, which can be convenient if you want a drink and music in one place without moving around. This suits a night when you would rather stay put.
The Green Pub, at Asmara Palace Hotel, is listed with discos on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, though that listing dates from 2015 and should be confirmed before you rely on it.
3. Expo Grounds
The Expo Grounds host larger venues, including Hdmona Restaurant and Club, where food is also served. This suits a longer evening that combines dinner with music in a single stop.
The same source also refers to the club as Hidmona and describes it as a place for a bahlawi experience, with food that is well regarded. As with any listing here, confirm current opening before travelling across town.
4. Meda Eritrea square
This square is a daytime and early-evening stop rather than a late-night one, known in the sources as a good spot for fresh fruit juice. It suits a first drink or a break before dinner.
Wintana Fast Food, at Meda Eritrea square, is named as a good spot for fresh juice. Note that the source advises caution with fresh juices and ice cream, and recommends sticking to bottled drinks for water.
5. Mai-Temenai and Shuk
These are everyday neighbourhood areas rather than nightlife districts, useful for practical errands and a sense of ordinary city life. They suit a low-key evening rather than a big night out.
Sources mention barbershops in Mai-Temenai beside Ghirmai Hotel on Menegedi Keren, and in Shuk by the bus stop. No bars or clubs are named in these areas, so treat them as places to walk and observe rather than to plan a night around.
How a night out unfolds
The sources do not give specific times for dinner, going out or closing, so treat the evening as flexible and ask at your hotel or guesthouse on the day. What is clear is that the city is cool after dark and that Asmara's nightlife is quieter than that of most capitals, so an evening tends to be built around a meal and a bar or two rather than a long progression of venues. If you are heading to a hotel disco, the nights named in the sources are Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, which suggests those are the evenings worth aiming for.
Frequently asked questions
Is Asmara good for nightlife?
It is generally considered quieter than most other capital cities, but there is a good range of local bars, along with hotel bars and discos, so there is enough for a relaxed evening.
What do people drink?
Eritrea is a beer-drinking country rather than a wine one. Asmara Beer, a pilsner of around 5% alcohol with a hop flavour, is the standard choice and is served in a distinctive bottle.
Which nights are best for music and dancing?
The Green Pub at Asmara Palace Hotel is listed with discos on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights. That listing dates from 2015, so confirm before you go.
Is there anything to be careful about at night?
Prostitution is legal and described as rife. The sources also advise sticking to bottled drinks rather than fresh juices or ice cream, and note that photographing government installations, police, airports and ministries is strictly forbidden.
Check the current opening nights with your hotel, then plan an evening that starts with dinner, moves to a bar or a hotel disco, and leaves room for the cold walk home.