Livingstone
Introduction
Livingstone sits in Zambia's Southern Province, a short distance north of the Zambezi River and within easy reach of the Victoria Falls. It is a historic colonial city named after David Livingstone, the Scottish explorer and missionary who was the first European to explore the area, and it served as the first capital of Northern Rhodesia before later becoming the capital of Southern Province.
Today the city draws travellers for its proximity to the falls and for its road and rail links to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, the resort town on the opposite side of the falls. Use Livingstone as a base for the falls and for crossing between Zambia and Zimbabwe.
Before you go
Livingstone is generally a fairly safe town, and because it depends on foreign visitors, locals tend to be careful about making travellers feel safe. Still, take sensible precautions: avoid walking downtown at night, especially if you have been drinking, since there are very few street lights and many locals are very poor. Try not to annoy taxi drivers, particularly late at night when some have been drinking. Walking the 8 km from Livingstone to Victoria Falls is not generally recommended because of reports of crime, and bull elephants in musk at certain times of year become irritable and aggressive and are not shy about humans.
Be cautious when exchanging currency into kwachas: touts may approach you with better rates and fool unsuspecting tourists with clever tricks of hand, so it is best to use the government bureau, and even the post office in Livingstone can change currency. If you plan to go rafting, choose an experienced, genuine guide and ask around your hotel or resort about a potential guide's reputation, since some are not genuine and may take your money and leave or lead you on a bogus trip that endangers your life. Make sure your safety equipment and gear is in good repair and properly secured.
Getting there
Livingstone has its own airport, Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport (LVI), with flights arriving daily. FlySafair, Airlink and CemAir connect the city with Johannesburg, while Zambia Airways serves both Johannesburg and Lusaka. Kenya Airways flies to Nairobi and Cape Town a few times a week, and ProFlight Zambia links Livingstone with Lusaka several times a day as well as other Zambian destinations. The airport is named after a figure central to Zambia's independence movement. From the airport you can take a taxi into town or use the ride-hailing app Yango, though you'll need cash for the latter. Alternatively, you can fly into Victoria Falls (VFA) on the Zimbabwe side of the border.
By rail, the once-weekly Zambezi train runs from Kitwe via Lusaka, operated by Zambia Railways, with departures from Lusaka on Wednesdays and a journey of around twelve hours; sleeper and economy classes are available, and a third-class-only train connects with Mulobezi once a week. The small Livingstone railway station sits just south of the city centre. Luxury buses run between Lusaka and Livingstone, with Power Tools the most reliable operator, taking seven to nine hours; reserve tickets in advance at the inter-city bus terminus, and note there are no overnight buses. Minibuses cover the same route for about the same fare, though with five seats to a row. International buses reach the Livingstone inter-city bus terminus from Windhoek via Katima Mulilo and from Francistown via Kasane. Driving from Lusaka is straightforward, with some of the country's best roads and only one left turn, and roads also lead in from Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, where you'll need a temporary import permit and Zambian third-party insurance. From Victoria Falls you can cross the border on foot and take a blue taxi into town, or a minibus; from the Botswana ferry at Kazungula, shared taxis wait a short distance from immigration and leave when full.
Getting around
Livingstone is compact, and the bulk of its accommodation, restaurants and nightlife sits close together in the town centre, so you can cover much of it on foot during the day. Sidewalks exist in places but road conditions are inconsistent, and walking is less comfortable after dark. Victoria Falls lies well beyond comfortable walking distance, so plan on wheels for that trip. Cycling is possible and bicycle rentals are available, but there is no dedicated cycling infrastructure, so it works best for leisure or guided tours rather than errands. The railway station south of the centre handles long-distance rail only, not a local commuter service, so arriving by train usually means continuing into town by taxi or on foot.
Taxis are the most dependable way around and prowl constantly; official ones are blue with red number plates. If you flag one on your way to the town centre, the driver may ask whether you are booking the vehicle or not — booking means full fare and door-to-door service, while not booking means paying for a single seat and sharing with other passengers going the same way. Agree the fare before you set off, and note that journeys to five-star hotels cost more, as can a taxi arranged for you by your hotel or guesthouse rather than negotiated with the driver directly. Ride-hailing is limited but available through the Yango app, which requires cash. For a cheaper option, shared minivans wait at the taxi depot across the street from Shoprite Livingstone next to Livingstone City Market, separate from the official bus terminal; they fill up before departing, which during regular hours does not take long, and serve destinations such as Victoria Falls and the Kazungula crossing into Botswana. Minibuses make up most local public transport, though quality and reliability vary and they do not substantially help with everyday travel around town.
Where to stay
Livingstone has a range of places to sleep, from budget hostels and campsites in town to luxury lodges on the Zambezi. Budget options cluster in and near the centre: Fawlty Towers sits downtown across from a strip mall and has a pool, a bar, a comfy lounge with a TV, free tea and coffee, and free pancakes daily; you can even camp by the pool if rooms are full. Jollyboys Backpackers offers a small campsite, dorm beds and private rooms with shared or en suite bathrooms, plus a pool, hammocks, mango trees and a roofed viewing platform where you can see the steam from the falls on a good day; its bar serves breakfast and home-cooked meals, a self-catering kitchen is available, and there is a free morning shuttle to the falls. Jollyboys Camp, a quieter, family-friendly version about a ten-minute walk from the centre, caters to families, school groups and mission groups, with campsites, dorms, private rooms, a playground, a pool, a campfire area and an open-air self-catering kitchen. Zinga Backpackers, on Magoye road, offers camping and dorm beds with free Wi-Fi, though it is a bit far from downtown.
Mid-range choices include treehouses on stilts overlooking the Zambezi at Tree-tops, the super quiet Chanters Lodge just off Obote Avenue, Waterberry Lodge on the banks of the Zambezi with garden-view huts, Zig Zag Guesthouse with en suite rooms, breakfast and free Wi-Fi, Olga's Accommodation run by the same organisation as Olga's: The Italian Corner restaurant, and Kozo Lodge Livingstone on Kabila street with double rooms, private bathrooms and breakfast. For a splurge, The Royal Livingstone sits on the banks of the Zambezi with a restaurant and bar right over the water, distant views to the mist of the falls, and giraffes, zebras and impalas roaming the grounds. The Zambezi Sun, between the Royal Livingstone and the falls in the same complex, offers several restaurants and accommodation types with a free shuttle between the two. Further afield are The River Club on the Zambezi upstream of the falls, the luxurious Stanley Safari Lodge overlooking the Zambezi, the falls and the Elephant Drinking Place, the river-facing David Livingstone Safari Lodge, and Royal Chundu Lodge, whose suites on stilts in the river and private-island villas lie well upstream, away from the noise and hubbub of the falls and Livingstone.
Food & drink
< p>Western-style food is easy to find in Livingstone, from pizza and burgers to burritos, and many lodges and accommodations run their own restaurants and pubs on-site. For a young crowd, O'Discols Restaurant near Fawlty Towers Backpackers is a popular spot with al fresco dining. The Funky Munky, down the street from Jollyboys Backpackers, is an excellent takeaway known for its pizzas, while Pub and Grill in town opposite the main banks serves American-style food in plentiful portions. Chanters Lodge, just outside the centre, offers pepper steak and can cater to those wanting an authentic Zambian meal. For the most "Zambian" dining experience, head to Sunrise in Kutaway — a street historically known as "second class" — where local people run a fairly clean and cozy place tucked between the buildings; the entrance is easy to miss, and even many taxi drivers don't know it. Armadillo Oriental & Grills on Mosi O Tunya Road serves Oriental and Continental dishes, and Ngolide Indian Restaurant offers authentic Indian and Continental options. Olga's: The Italian Corner, behind the Catholic church, serves authentic pizzas and pasta, with profits going to a local NGO working with at-risk youth, plus free WiFi and a gift shop of crafts made by program participants. You'll also find the Crocodile Cafe at the Zambezi Sun for pastries and light al fresco meals, Kalai Restaurant at the David Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa for contemporary cuisine in a traditional setting, Kaazmein Lodge Restaurant for à la carte and buffet dishes with panoramic views upstairs, Rhapsody's Livingstone for gourmet cuisine in stylish surroundings, The Waterfront with river views, Wasawange Lodge, Wonder Bake Take Away and Restaurant, and Zig Zag Coffee House with its extensive breakfast menu. < p>Every hostel, hotel, and resort in Livingstone has its own bar, so a cold drink is never far away. Downtown nightclubs draw both tourists and locals dancing to local and Western music — much of the local music comes from Congolese artists performing in DRC languages, so even many Zambians don't know the words, but the rhythm and dancing are what matter. Stepright is reputedly a hub of organized crime, though tourists should not have trouble, and there's an open-air club across the road plus a bar and grill with a disco next door in the centre of town. A casino a short taxi ride away has slightly more expensive drinks. Hippos, the bar attached to Fawlty Towers, is the most common tourist hangout, though many locals socialize there too. Chez nTemba is a typical Zambian nightclub, open daily, and one of the few places with a door charge and slightly more expensive drinks. Rhapsody in the new Fallspark shopping centre — locally known as "spar" after the supermarket there — is an upper-class bar and restaurant.What to see and do
Victoria Falls is the centrepiece of any visit, and the park is designed so you can walk right up to the water. You can touch the Zambezi just metres before it plunges over the edge, cross the gorge on a narrow bridge for spectacular views, and take as many photographs as you like. Turn left to walk in front of the gorge, or take the track to the right to see the river just before it drops; doing the upriver walk first is worth considering, as it is less appealing once you are soaked. Ponchos are for hire at the entrance, with a cheaper stand inside the park, and you should think about how to keep your camera dry. Bring cash, as the card network is frequently down, and note that your ticket is valid for multiple entries on the same day. Food and drink inside the park are limited to a small stand selling bottled water and cold drinks, plus a couple of food stalls near the curio markets between the ticket booth and the falls, where hawkers can be very enthusiastic. During a full moon the park opens additionally, offering a night rainbow over the falls. Beyond the falls, Livingstone has several museums: the Livingstone Museum on Mosi-o-tunya Road, with natural history displays and an account of Zambian independence, plus a curio shop and touts outside; the Maramba Cultural Museum, showcasing traditional Zambian culture and art; and the Zambia Railway Museum on Limulunga Road, dedicated to the country's railway heritage. Adventure activities are plentiful. White water rafting runs Class V rapids starting in the gorge at the Boiling Pot beneath Victoria Falls Bridge, finishing on a sandy beach with a cable car out of the gorge; you can body board the first few rapids if you swim well. Bungee jumping from the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe is popular, with a bridge swing and zip line combo available. The Zambezi Swing lets you abseil, rap jump, zip line and gorge swing. A trip to Livingstone Island, reached from the Royal Livingstone Hotel, lets you stand in shallow water inches from the lip of the falls and swim in Devil's Pool, a current-free pool close enough to lean over the edge; the island opens in July as water levels drop, with Devil's Pool a few weeks later, and you should book with a reputable company as unregistered access is illegal. Batoka Sky and United Air Charters offer helicopter flights over the falls, with a longer option combining the gorge and game viewing over Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park; microflight rides give a closer but narrower view and do not fly on windy days. Other options include an elephant back safari with Elephant Trails, walking with young lions in Zimbabwe, sunset booze cruises on the Zambezi above the falls with game viewing and a braai, and Jet Extreme, which includes a drive through the bush and a cable car descent to the rapids. The Livingstone Performing Arts Foundation (LiPAF) performs Dancing Around Zambia at the Wasawange Hotel, and the Royal Livingstone Express runs excursions by colonial-era steam train. Nearby, Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park is home to Zambia's only white rhinos, which are under heavy guard around the clock.Three days in Livingstone
Day one: Settle into Livingstone, the gateway city in Zambia's Southern Province, and take your bearings along the Zambezi River. It is worth starting with the falls themselves, Victoria Falls, the reason most travellers come and the sight that David Livingstone, the Scottish explorer, brought to European attention during the Northern Rhodesia era. Today the town makes an easy base, with Zimbabwe just across the water. Use Livingstone as your anchor and let the river set the pace.
Day two: Still on the water, try a day of activities that suit your energy. Walking routes near the falls let you feel the spray and hear the roar, while gentler options along the Zambezi let you watch the current and the wildlife. Be prepared for warm, humid conditions and sudden rain in the wet months, and for dry, dusty heat later in the year. If you want a slower afternoon, stay in town and explore its streets and markets.
Day three: Make your onward plans. Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport, known as LVI, connects Livingstone with Johannesburg through FlySafair, Airlink and CemAir, with Zambia Airways linking to Lusaka, Kenya Airways to Nairobi, and Cape Town served by ProFlight Zambia. From the Zambian side you can also cross to Zimbabwe, or use the VFA route by road. Yango and taxis are available in town. Alternatively, simply spend a final morning by the Zambezi before you go.