Chipata
Introduction
Chipata is the administrative centre of Zambia's Eastern Province and of Chipata District. It was declared the country's fifth city in 2017, joining Lusaka, Ndola, Kitwe and Livingstone.
In the years leading up to that city status, Chipata saw rapid economic and infrastructure growth, and that momentum shapes the city you arrive in today.
Before you go
Chipata was once Fort Jameson, capital of North-Eastern Rhodesia until the creation of Northern Rhodesia, and it is now the capital of Zambia's Eastern Province. It is a busy town, with people arriving daily, so expect a working provincial centre rather than a resort. The town is built around one main axis: the Great East Road from Lusaka runs through town to its solitary set of traffic lights, after which it becomes the Umodzi Highway heading for the Malawian border. On the western edge of the city, Lundazi Road branches north towards Mfuwe, Lundazi and eventually Chama. Knowing these two routes is enough to find your way around, and they are also the roads you will use to arrive and leave.Getting there
To reach Chipata by air, you can fly to Lusaka or to Mfuwe, the gateway for South Luangwa. Proflight runs these flights from Monday to Friday, and bookings can be made at Jasat Travel Agency in Down Town.
From Lusaka, the bus ride to Chipata takes seven to eight hours on a luxury coach, and buses to the capital leave every hour. Arrive at least an hour before departure, since buses leave as soon as they are full and do not always stick to the timetable. Companies operating the route include Lungu luxury coaches, Chibangamoto, Kapekele and CR Carriers, among many others; Zoom has a rather poor safety record. Cheaper transport exists but will probably take twice as long. There are two bus stations, one for minibuses and one mainly for coaches, with another under construction, so you will need to ask around to find the one you need. Expect to wait at the local bus station regardless of what the conductor tells you, as minibuses only leave when full.
Chipata sits roughly 22 km from the Malawian border along Lusaka Road / T4. Shared taxis run to the border, taking around 30 to 40 minutes. Taxis from the Malawi side can carry you through Malawi customs, but you will have to change once on the Zambian side. Shared taxis to Mfuwe and South Luangwa National Park depart along the M12, under the big baobabs next to the park, leaving when full.
Getting around
Chipata is sprawling for a rural community, so while walking is the most straightforward way to cover short distances, longer walks can be tiring. If you want more range, bicycles can be hired cheaply, and day-long arrangements can be made through the Tourism News. There is no metro, tram or urban rail network in the city; the railhead here functions as a freight and cross-border corridor rather than a local commuter service, so ask locally about current passenger services before planning around them.
Blue cabs are plentiful and unmetered, so bargain hard and agree on the fare before you set off; they will also take you to the Malawian border, with prices varying by how many people are travelling. Shared taxis are the cheaper option for common routes: those to the border run along Lusaka Road (the T4) and take roughly half an hour, while shared taxis to Mfuwe and South Luangwa National Park leave from under the big baobabs along the Chipata–Mfuwe road when full, a trip of a few hours. For longer journeys, coaches are the main way in and out, with separate minibus and coach stations and limited signage, so ask around to find the one you need. Vehicles leave when full rather than to a strict timetable, so build in buffer time. The airport sits outside the city on the D104 road, which also continues to Mfuwe and South Luangwa, so plan your onward transfer in advance and agree the taxi fare before leaving.
Where to stay
Budget options cluster around town and along the roads heading north. Chipata Motel, just north of the Lundazi Road intersection, has clean but somewhat run-down doubles, and it also hosts concerts — worth visiting, though not ideal if you want to sleep through them. Pine View Guest House sits on the southeast side of town off Umodzi Highway. Further out on Lundazi Highway you'll find Katuta Lodge, with camping and clean singles and doubles with bathrooms, plus a decent restaurant serving local and Western fare, and Mama Rula's, which offers chalets and camping and is popular with overlanders, with a good bar serving Mosi and Carlsberg and local and Western dishes. Deans Hill View Lodge, near the Chipata welcome arch just off the main Lusaka highway, has camping and dorm beds and bed and breakfast for backpackers and travellers.
For mid-range comfort, Faigib Guest House on DK Road, at the corner with Chawama Drive northwest of the city centre, offers doubles with bathroom and breakfast, Wi-Fi when electricity is available, and a helpful manager who will give you a ride on his motorbike to restaurants, buses or shared taxis. If you're struggling to find a guest house, the Tourism News office on Church Road in the Mandawa Photo Studios Building, on the road to Luangwa House, can help with travel arrangements and can also arrange a bicycle for a reasonable fee.
Food & drink
Chipata has several local restaurants serving cheap traditional food, so you won't struggle to eat well on a budget. Chef's Pride on Parerenyatwa Rd serves local dishes alongside Zambianised Indian food; try the pepper chicken and chapattis, and note that the chicken meals are held in particularly high regard. Next door, Lazeez Khana offers similar food at similar prices and is your best bet for beef steaks.
- Chef's Pride, Parerenyatwa Rd — local and Zambianised Indian dishes; pepper chicken and chapattis are the things to order.
- Lazeez Khana, next to Chef's Pride — similar menu and prices to its neighbour; go for the beef steaks.
- Jamraz, at Welcome.
For drinking, Chipata's nightlife is low-key. Up Town, near the Caltex Filling Station, is the only proper nightclub in town. The Wildlife Club, in the Wildlife & Environment Conservation Society building, has a pool table and beers; it is theoretically members-only but in practice anybody gets in, and it is popular with Chipata's small expat community. Pine View, on the guest house property, has a chilled-out bar and pool tables — a good place to meet locals and have some fun.
What to see and do
Chipata is not a city that rewards sightseeing for its own sake, but a few spots are worth your time. The Juma Mosque, also known as the Central Mosque, sits on Mosque Road and is probably the prettiest building in town; non-Muslims cannot enter, but it is just down the road from the Down Shops, so you can combine the two. Muslims make up only a small minority of the population here. For a view over Chipata, head to Kanjala Hill on the northeast corner of town, nearly two kilometres east of Shoprite. Pack a lunch and make the hike, or drive up if you have a 4WD, since the track leading up from JBG Road is rough.
If your visit coincides with one of the two major festivals held around Chipata, plan around it. Ncwala, usually in the last week of February at Mutenguleni village, is a Ngoni festival celebrating the first fruit of the season: the Ngoni chief ceremonially tastes the fruit of the land, then spears a bull and drinks its blood. Kulamba takes place sometime in August at Undi village, about 75 km from Chipata near Katete. It is a Chewa thanksgiving festival that draws colourful Nyau secret society dancers from Zambia as well as Malawi and Mozambique.
When to go
Chipata has a tropical savanna climate, so your trip will be shaped by two broad seasons: a wet season from November to March and a dry season from May to October. The wet months bring high humidity and significant rainfall, with frequent downpours and muddy conditions underfoot. This is also the warm-to-hot stretch of the year, and temperatures climb toward their peak in October and November.
If you prefer clear, dry conditions, plan around the dry season from May to October, when rainfall is minimal. July is the coolest month, making it the most comfortable time for time outdoors, while October brings the year's highest temperatures as the dry season comes to an end.
Three days in Chipata
Day one: Arrive in Chipata, the provincial capital of Zambia's Eastern Province, by road on the Great East Road from Lusaka, or by air from Lusaka, Ndola, Kitwe or Livingstone with Proflight, which flies on Mondays and Fridays. From the centre, take the Umodzi Highway towards the Malawian border, or head out on Lundazi Road towards Mfuwe and South Luangwa. Settle into the town and get your bearings in Down Town.
Day two: Use Chipata as your base for the wider district. The town sits in Chipata District within Eastern Province, and the roads out lead to Mfuwe, Lundazi and Chama. If you are arranging transport onward, companies such as Jasat Travel Agency, Lungu, Chibangamoto, Kapekele, CR Carriers and Zoom can help, and it is often cheaper to book through them than to arrange things piecemeal.
Day three: Round off your stay with the history of the place in mind. Chipata was known as Fort Jameson, and the surrounding area was part of North Eastern Rhodesia and later Northern Rhodesia. Knowing this, a last look around town before you leave gives the journey more shape, whether you continue to South Luangwa or back towards Lusaka.