Mthatha travel guide

Mthatha, South Africa

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Mthatha

Introduction

Mthatha, also written Umtata, is the main city of the King Sabata Dalindyebo Local Municipality in South Africa's Eastern Cape province, and serves as the capital of the OR Tambo District Municipality. The city takes its name from the nearby Mthatha River, which was itself named for the sneezewood (umtati) trees growing in the area, long valued for their wood and medicinal properties.

Mthatha has an airport, formerly known as the K. D. Matanzima Airport after the former leader Kaiser Matanzima. The city's position as a municipal capital makes it a natural base for exploring the surrounding OR Tambo District.

Getting there

Mthatha sits on the N2 highway, which runs directly through the city and gives you straightforward connections south to East London, Port Elizabeth and Cape Town, and north to Durban. The R61 regional road branches east to Port St Johns on the coast, and west towards Queenstown and the more mountainous, remote interior.

Getting around

Getting around Mthatha is mostly a matter of road transport, as there is no passenger train service to the city and no metro or tram network. Minibus taxis are the dominant and most affordable option, running on set routes with frequent service; fares are low, but you will need to know your route and be comfortable with a busy, informal system. Two major taxi businesses operate in the city, the Uncedo Taxi Association and the Border Taxi Association, and their history of feuding — notably over the R61 road to Libode and Port St. Johns — has at times led to ranks being closed and taxis impounded, so expect the taxi landscape to be organised around ranks and associations and be prepared for occasional disruption. Bus services also exist but are less common than minibuses, serving several key routes and generally considered more comfortable for longer-distance travel.

Metered taxis and ride-hailing services such as Bolt and Uber operate in the city; they cost more than minibuses but offer door-to-door service, which is practical if you are unfamiliar with the minibus routes or carrying luggage. Walking is viable if you are staying close to where you need to be, letting you explore local amenities such as cafes, libraries and events. Bicycle rental services are available, and some companies offer electric scooter rentals suited to short-distance trips; if you cycle or use a scooter, follow traffic rules and wear a helmet and protective gear. The city is described as generally safe, but precautions are advised: travel in groups, especially at night, familiarise yourself with routes and schedules, and keep emergency contacts on hand. Mthatha is also prone to severe thunderstorms, some tornadic in nature, and has experienced serious flooding, so check conditions before travelling, particularly around the airport.

Where to stay

Finding somewhere to stay in Mthatha is usually straightforward, as the town has numerous accommodation options. Among them are guesthouses and B&Bs rather than large hotels, so you can expect a personal, low-key base for exploring the area.

Food & drink

For a city of its size, Mthatha offers a couple of notable places to eat. The Ebony Restaurant, at the Ebony B&B, is regarded as perhaps the best restaurant in the Eastern Cape, an unexpected find here. If you would rather stick with something familiar, Ocean Basket is a seafood chain you will come across in most cities and large towns, and it also serves a reasonable salad.

What to see and do

For a sense of the city's place in the country's story, head to the Nelson Mandela Museum, the standout sight in Mthatha and the anchor of any visit here. Plan your stop for a weekday or a Saturday morning, when the museum is open, and leave time afterwards for its craft shop, run by the Ithemba project, where you can browse handmade work and pick up something made locally. Beyond the museum, the source offers little in the way of organised activities, so treat Mthatha as a place to slow down and look around rather than tick off a list of attractions. The museum and its craft shop are the clear highlights, and building your time in the city around them is the most reliable way to spend a worthwhile day here.

Three days in Mthatha

Day one: Arrive at Mthatha Airport, also known as Matanzima Airport, named after Kaiser Matanzima, and take a metered taxi, Bolt or Uber into town. Once settled, walk the streets of Mthatha, the town also called Umtata, and get your bearings along the Mthatha River. For longer hops around the Eastern Cape, minibus taxis run by the Uncedo Taxi Association and the Border Taxi Association connect Mthatha with Libode, Port St Johns, Queenstown, East London, Port Elizabeth, Durban and Cape Town, while buses and SA Airlink flights link the town with Johannesburg.

Day two: Base yourself in Mthatha, seat of King Sabata Dalindyebo Local Municipality within OR Tambo District Municipality, and use the day to understand how the town anchors the surrounding OR Tambo District. If you want to push further afield, minibus taxis and buses make Port St Johns and Libode reachable, and the same network reaches Queenstown, East London, Port Elizabeth, Durban and Cape Town. Keep your movements simple and let the taxi ranks and bus stops set your rhythm.

Day three: Spend a final day in Mthatha itself before departing. Walking and cycling are the easiest ways to cover the centre, and metered taxis, Bolt and Uber are on hand when you need them. When it is time to leave, head back to Mthatha Airport for an SA Airlink flight to Johannesburg, or join a bus or minibus taxi toward Port St Johns, Queenstown, East London, Port Elizabeth, Durban or Cape Town.

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