East London
Introduction
East London, officially known as KuGompo City, sits on the southeastern coast of South Africa within the Eastern Cape's Buffalo City Metropolitan Municipality. The city spreads along the Indian Ocean largely between the Buffalo River and the Nahoon River, and it is home to the country's only river port.
Before you go
East London sits on South Africa's east coast and is the main city of the Buffalo City Metropolitan Municipality, which also takes in Bhisho and King William's Town. The city is served by an airport, a deep-water port and a railway link to the national network. Its name is a colonial one, and there is ongoing debate about changing it, so you may hear the city referred to in more than one way. The wider area is one of the country's major tomato-growing regions, thanks to a climate that stays good throughout the year, and it is also a boxing hub, having produced a long line of world champions.
Plan your trip around the outdoors: the city is known for its beaches and for game reserves where the Big Five can be found, including a lion park close to the city. Mdantsane, once considered the country's second largest township, lies within the municipality. If you take an interest in natural history, note that in 1938 the curator of the town museum found a prehistoric coelacanth — long thought to be extinct — in the catch of a local fishing vessel.
Getting there
East London is well connected by road: the N2 links it to Port Elizabeth and Durban, while the N6 runs inland to Bloemfontein. If you're travelling from or to Port Elizabeth, consider the R72 "Romantic Coast Road" instead — it takes a little longer but rewards you with spectacular views and small coastal towns such as Port Alfred along the way. Distances are considerable, so plan your fuel and rest stops: Durban, Johannesburg, Kimberley, Mthatha and Cape Town are all a long drive away. By air, East London Airport (ELS) is served by South African Airways, with flights to Cape Town, Johannesburg and Durban as well as some smaller cities in the country. Shosholoza Meyl runs regular inter-city trains from Johannesburg, Bloemfontein and Cape Town, and you can reach Kimberley, Pietermaritzburg and Durban by changing trains in Bloemfontein, or Port Elizabeth by changing in Noupoort or Colesburg; the railway station sits in the city centre on the corner of Station and Terminus streets. MetroRail commuter trains serve some outlying suburbs, with a reduced service over weekends. Translux and Greyhound operate regular bus services to all bigger South African cities, and minibus taxis to Port Elizabeth leave from the corner of Buffalo and College streets, while Eldo Coaches run buses to Johannesburg.Getting around
East London has no metro, tram or extensive municipal bus network, so getting around is difficult without a car. Most visitors rely on taxis, ride-hailing, a pre-booked shuttle or a rental car. Walking works in pockets rather than across the city: the Esplanade and Nahoon Beach are comfortable on foot, but you will need wheels for the malls, dining further afield and day trips. Avoid walking or cycling alone in isolated areas or after dark, particularly in the CBD after business hours, and take a taxi instead.
- Metered taxis: widely described as the best way to reach the city and its suburbs. Pre-book through a reputable company or your accommodation; fares are distance- and time-based and cash is preferred.
- Mini-bus taxis: the most prevalent local public transport, running fixed but unmapped routes from early morning until around 9–10pm. Fares are cash, paid to the driver or a gaartjie. They are often crowded, not wheelchair accessible, and you find out which one to board by asking locals.
- Ride-hailing: Uber and Bolt both operate, with card payment and GPS monitoring. Check that the driver and vehicle match the app before getting in, and avoid unmarked vehicles claiming to be taxis.
- Little Red Bus: a pre-bookable shuttle offering a safe, reliable and good-value link from the airport to any address in the city. Book by phone or email and the driver waits in arrivals with your name on a sign. The fee is per passenger, the bus departs once all booked passengers are collected, and return or other city journeys can be arranged.
- Car rental: several major companies operate at the airport terminal, three with branches there. You need a valid national licence, an International Driving Permit and a credit card for the deposit, with a minimum age typically of 21. South Africa drives on the left, seatbelts are required for all occupants, and phone use needs a hands-free kit. The N2 and N6 are generally well maintained, but secondary roads vary and potholes are prevalent in rural areas.
- Rail: no metro or tram, but Shosholoza Meyl runs inter-city trains from Johannesburg, Bloemfontein and Cape Town, and MetroRail runs a reduced commuter service to some outlying suburbs, especially limited at weekends. The main station is in the city centre on the corner of Station and Terminus streets.
If you have mobility impairments, plan ahead: mini-bus taxis are not accessible and public transport amenities are limited. Accessible taxi services usually require advance booking, so confirm features with your accommodation before you arrive. There are no boat taxis, cable cars, funiculars, tuk-tuks or jeepneys, and scooter rental is uncommon.
Where to stay
Budget travellers have a couple of backpacker options in East London. Sugarshack Backpackers sits on Eastern Esplanade Road and overlooks the sea, offering dorm beds, single and double rooms, and camping, with free tea and coffee. Buffalo Backpackers on Moore Street has more of a workers' hostel feel than a backpackers'. Both are inexpensive places to base yourself.
For something more comfortable, The Thatch is a guesthouse on Flamingo Crescent in Beacon Bay, overlooking the Indian Ocean. It lies outside town but is beautifully situated. At the top end, Nahoon Eco Lodge is in Woodleigh.
Food & drink
East London's eating is spread between the beachfront and the shopping centres inland. On the beach front, The Guidos is worth a visit, and you should not overlook the Milkshake Shop or the locally legendary Windmill. Cafe Neo, a Greek cafe, sits at the Windmill on Moore Street in Quigney, while Grazia Fine Food and Wine can be found on the Upper Esplanade and Beach Front Road.
- Cafe Neo — Greek cafe at the Windmill, Moore Street, Quigney
- Grazia Fine Food and Wine — Upper Esplanade/Beach Front Road
- The Guidos — beach front
- The Milkshake Shop — beach front
- Windmill — locally legendary
Inland, Beacon Bay Crossing is the focus for several options: Sanook Eatery serves simple, tasty Thai food, and Cantina and Craft offers traditional Mexican food alongside a lot of craft beer. For coffee, head to Cafe Bella in Hemingways Mall in Vincent, which roasts its own beans and serves plenty of frozen treats.
- Sanook Eatery — Thai, Beacon Bay Crossing
- Cantina and Craft — Mexican and craft beer, Beacon Bay Crossing
- Cafe Bella — home roasted coffee and frozen treats, Hemingways Mall, Vincent
What to see and do
Your trip to East London is anchored by its coastline, where stretches of white sand and surf breaks such as Nahoon Reef draw visitors from Gauteng over the Christmas and Easter holidays. The harbour is the country's only natural deep-water port, and its waterfront is lined with places to eat, including Ballyhoo Bistro, which serves meals with views over the moored yachts and also runs river cruises. Inland, the Bunkers Hill suburb holds the Botanical Gardens, while the Victorian-era Gately House, once home to a former mayor, is now a national monument. Art lovers can head to the Ann Bryant Art Gallery in Southernwood, and the East London Museum on Oxford Street covers history, artifacts and customs. For wildlife, several reserves sit within reach: Inkwenkwezi Game Reserve is home to all of the Big Five, Mpongo Private Game Reserve spreads across rolling hills and river valleys, and The Lion Park offers white lions, tigers, a cheetah, wild dogs and tame Nyala buck. Theatregoers can catch a show at the East London Guild Theatre in Selborne East. The city's calendar includes the Buyel' Ekhaya Pan African Music Festival, featuring artists from across the continent, the FNB Eastern Cape Wine Festival at Hemingways Casino, and the Daily Dispatch Cycle Tour, when the roads close to everything but bicycles.Three days in East London
Day one: Start in East London itself, the only river port in South Africa, sitting where the Buffalo River meets the Indian Ocean. Get your bearings along the waterfront and the river mouth, then head inland to KuGompo City, a precinct of museums, craft and heritage in the heart of town. If you want the wider picture, the city sits within the Buffalo City Metropolitan Municipality in the Eastern Cape, with Bhisho and King William's Town nearby in the same municipal area.
Day two: Follow the rivers. The Nahoon River is the other waterway shaping the city, and its surroundings reward a slow morning before you turn to the coast. The Romantic Coast Road runs down toward Port Alfred and is the classic drive from here, with the Indian Ocean on one side the whole way. Keep the day loose; the point is the coastline, not a checklist.
Day three: Look beyond the city to the Eastern Cape interior and the bigger picture. Mdantsane lies close by and shows a different side of the region. If you are planning onward travel, East London Airport (ELS) handles flights, while Shosholoza Meyl, MetroRail, Translux and Greyhound connect the city by rail and road to places such as Port Elizabeth, Durban, Bloemfontein, Johannesburg, Kimberley, Mthatha, Cape Town, Pietermaritzburg, Noupoort, Colesburg and Station Terminus. Distances are long, so pick one direction and give it the day.