Ha Long
Introduction
Hạ Long is a ward in Quảng Ninh, Vietnam, and serves as the administrative center of the province. Its name comes from the former city of Hạ Long, which was once the provincial capital of Quảng Ninh.
Getting around
Hạ Long has no metro, tram or urban rail network, so getting around means road transport, boats, or your own two feet. In practice, most visitors rely on taxis, ride-hailing apps, or transport arranged through their hotel or cruise operator. Taxis are the default choice and are available at the airport, at the pier, in the city centre and at major attractions, and hotels can arrange one for you. Reputable companies include Halong Taxi, Bai Chay Taxi, Hong Gai Taxi and Mai Linh Taxi; fares are metered, starting at a small flag-fall charge and then a per-kilometre rate. Ride-hailing apps — Grab, Be and GoViet — are used in the city and let you see the fare up front. Car rental with a driver is available if you want a vehicle at your disposal for the day, and motorbike rental is a cheap and popular way to explore, though both require a valid driver's licence and passport, and helmets are mandatory on two wheels — police do issue fines. Bicycle rental is inexpensive and can be arranged through hotels and local shops, with guided bike tours also on offer. Bear in mind the terrain includes hills, rocks and uneven surfaces, and normal traffic rules apply — keep to the right.
Public buses are the cheapest way to travel, and routes connect Hạ Long Bay with Hanoi and other northern cities; long-distance services are air-conditioned with frequent daytime departures. The main bus station is Bai Chay Bus Station on Vuon Dao Street, from which you can pick up local buses or a taxi onward to your accommodation. Within the city itself, information is thin: anecdotal reports mention a bus route serving Tuan Chau, and an unnumbered bus that starts from the lighthouse pier in the Bai Chay area and can be flagged down at any stop along Hạ Long Boulevard, running roughly from early morning until early evening, but this service is described as infrequent and no official schedules, stop lists or timetables appear to be readily available online. Treat local bus information as unreliable and be prepared to fall back on a taxi. Walking is realistic for short hops around your immediate area, but Hạ Long is not a city you can comfortably cover on foot end to end — the piers, cruise departure points, the museum and outlying islands are generally spread out, so plan to walk locally and use a vehicle for anything longer. The islands and the bay itself are reached by boat or as part of a cruise excursion, and if your goal is the bay rather than the city, your cruise operator will handle the transport. If you are flying in, taxis are available at the airport and ride-hailing apps can also be used; many visitors pre-book a private car or a limousine transfer instead, and booking through your hotel or cruise operator is a reliable way to arrange an airport pickup. Carry small change for metered taxi fares, keep your licence and passport with you if you rent a car or motorbike, and ask your hotel to arrange taxis or transfers — they can also organise bicycle or motorbike rental.
Three days in Ha Long
Day one: Base yourself in Bai Chay, the busy tourist quarter on the Hạ Long side of the bay, and use it as your starting point for the water. Boats leave from the Bai Chay wharf for cruises among the limestone islands of Hạ Long Bay, and the streets around Vuon Dao Street are where you will find the agencies and operators who run them. In the evening, walk the Bai Chay waterfront along Hạ Long Boulevard, where the seafood restaurants and cafes face the bay.
Day two: Take a full day on the water in Hạ Long Bay, the reason most travellers come to Quảng Ninh. Cruises range from a few hours to overnight, and the classic route threads between the karst pillars and floating fishing villages. If you would rather stay on land, Tuan Chau is the other main base, reached by road across the bridge from Bai Chay, and it has its own marina and beach. Back in Bai Chay, eat grilled squid and other fresh seafood, the local speciality.
Day three: Cross to Hong Gai, the commercial half of the city, for its markets and streets, then decide how to move on. Buses leave from Bai Chay Bus Station, and Hanoi is the usual next stop. Within the city, taxis are the easy option - reputable companies include Halong Taxi, Bai Chay Taxi, Hong Gai Taxi and Mai Linh Taxi - while ride-hailing apps such as Grab, Be and GoViet also work here. You can also rent a bicycle or car if you want to explore at your own pace. Carry cash for smaller places, and treat the weather with respect: summers are hot and humid with sudden storms, winters can turn damp and chilly.