Xiva

Getting around

Nearly everything you want to see in Khiva lies inside or just beside the walls of Ichan-Kala, the compact walled inner city, so you can leave the question of transport until you want to venture beyond the old town. Within the walls, walking is the default and often the only mode you need: the lanes are narrow, the distances short and the main sights cluster together. The walk between the train station and Ichan-Kala takes a little longer than you might expect, and with luggage a taxi for that stretch is inexpensive and more comfortable.

• The interurban trolleybus to Urgench is Khiva's most distinctive form of public transport and the only surviving trolleybus system in Uzbekistan. It loops through several streets in Khiva, makes a short stop at the local market and runs at frequent intervals from early morning until early evening, stopping at marked stops and on request; a conductor collects a low standard fare as you leave. Note that it no longer serves Urgench's railway station or airport — its Urgench terminus is the central market.
• Marshrutkas (shared minibuses) run from the Urgench bus terminal toward Khiva and are the cheapest option, but they are infrequent, can be crowded and take considerably longer than a taxi — treat them as a budget choice rather than a convenient one.
• Taxis are the most flexible way to move between the station, the old town and Urgench. Fares are negotiated, so agree the price and confirm your exact destination before setting off — naming a landmark such as the western gate of Ichan-Kala avoids confusion and overcharging. Shared taxis back toward Urgench leave from near that gate and depart only once full.
• Yandex.Taxi works in Urgench city, but coverage is limited at the airport arrivals area, so download and register the app before you travel.
• For sights outside Khiva, such as the desert fortresses of Toprak Kala and Ayaz Kala or the sites around Kunya-Urgench, there is no practical public transport; the usual approach is to rent a car with a driver through your hotel or a local agency for a full day.

Carry cash in Uzbek som or US dollars, as ATMs in Khiva exist but are not always reliable, and build in a buffer for any transfer to the airport or the return trip to Urgench.

Three days in Xiva

Day one: Start inside the walls of Ichan Kala in Khiva, the walled inner town where most of the sights sit within easy walking distance of one another. Take your time wandering the lanes and climbing the old fortifications, then pause for Uzbek dishes at one of the small places inside the walls. Note that ATMs in Ichan Kala can be unreliable, so carry enough cash for the day.

Day two: Head out of the city to the desert fortresses of Toprak Kala and Ayaz Kala, both within reach on a day trip. Carry water and sun protection, as the exposed sites offer little shade. Back in Khiva in the evening, eat well and rest before another early start.

Day three: Use the morning to revisit the parts of Ichan Kala you liked most, then sort out onward transport. Marshrutkas and shared taxis run to Urgench, and taxis are easy to arrange; Yandex Taxi works in Uzbekistan, and fares are modest. If you are heading further afield, Kunya Urgench makes a worthwhile stop on the way.