Introduction
Lying at the western edge of the Nile River Delta, Alexandria extends about 40 km along Egypt's northern coast. Founded in 331 BCE by Alexander the Great, this major Mediterranean port city is Egypt's second largest after Cairo and a leading hub for science, culture, and scholarship. Nicknamed the "Bride of the Mediterranean," Alexandria remains a popular tourist destination where ancient history, Hellenistic heritage, and modern energy converge.
Before you go
Prepare for a journey through time as you explore a city defined by its layered history, from the era of Alexander the Great to the modern day. You can experience the remnants of a once-great knowledge economy and cosmopolitan culture in the remaining Greek restaurants and cafes. Because the city extends along the coast, most sights, dining options, and accommodations are concentrated near the Corniche, the waterfront promenade that makes navigation straightforward. To ensure a comfortable stay, keep the following in mind:
- Dress modestly; women should cover their shoulders, midriffs, cleavage, and legs.
- Cover your head when entering places of worship.
- Be mindful of pickpockets and avoid displaying valuables or wearing bags like fanny packs.
- If you encounter persistent harassment from street kids or drivers, a firm "La!" or the phrases "la shukran" (no thanks) or "emshi" (go) should be effective.
Getting there
You can reach Alexandria by air via Borg el Arab Airport, which handles domestic flights from several regional cities. While the airport is modern, it lacks public transport, meaning you will need to arrange a taxi for the trip into the city center. For those traveling from Cairo, the train is an easy option with numerous daily services ranging from "Express" to "Special" non-stop trains that offer air conditioning and snacks. You can also choose to travel by bus, which provides comfortable seating and a trolley service, or take a minibus for a more local experience. If you prefer to drive, you can navigate the Agriculture Road or the less crowded Desert Road, both of which take about three hours from Cairo.
Getting around
Navigating the city along the Corniche is manageable through several transport options. You can choose to ride the historic tram system, which features two distinct networks: the blue-and-cream Ramleh Lines and the bright yellow City Lines. While the route maps are confusing and change frequently, the Ramleh Lines offer dedicated right-of-way while the City Lines often encounter traffic. For a practical option, you can take the yellow tram #25 from Raml Station to Ras el-Tin and Fort Qait Bey. For more direct travel, yellow and black taxis are available throughout the city. You should agree on a fare before entering the vehicle, as drivers do not use meters and may attempt to overcharge you. Alternatively, local buses and "mini-buses" operate along main streets; these smaller vehicles function on a hop-and-go basis where they stop when you wave. Because bus drivers rarely speak English and signage can be inconsistent, it is helpful to know the Arabic name of your destination or use local hand signals to indicate where you wish to get off.
Where to stay
You can find a wide range of accommodations in Alexandria, many of which are housed in older buildings featuring charming colonial-style lobbies. For those staying for a month or more, apartments are readily available across various states of repair. When viewing these rentals, it is advisable to visit the property in the late afternoon to check the lighting and ensure the space is comfortable. If you prefer a hotel, many options exist from budget-friendly stays to upscale resorts. Some establishments offer a sense of period charm with grand architecture and historic features like wire-cage lifts, while others provide modern amenities and expansive views of the coast. For those seeking a more secluded experience away from the city center, several hotels are located in the outskirts where you can enjoy spacious rooms and a quieter atmosphere.
Food & drink
Savor the local flavors of Alexandria by heading to the waterfront, where seafood restaurants line the coast. You can enjoy traditional Egyptian dishes like Koshary—a hearty mix of noodles, rice, and lentils topped with tomato sauce—often served with a local twist of fried liver. For a snack along the Corniche, look for street vendors selling corn on the cob. If you have a sweet tooth, try the local ice cream; it is known for its unique "stretchy" texture and is available in many flavors at shops near Qait Bey. The city offers a diverse cafe culture ranging from traditional coffee shops where you can watch the world go by to more modern establishments. You can find:
- Historic, posh cafes like Trianon, famous for its rich bread pudding.
- Relaxing waterfront spots such as Cafe de la Paix or those offering views of the harbor and fort.
- Specialized eateries serving Middle Eastern staples like shawarma and grilled meats, or Mediterranean favorites like pasta and pizza.
What to see and do
Explore the historical depth of the city by visiting the Citadel of Qaitbay, a 15th-century fortress built on the Anfushi promontory where the ancient lighthouse once stood. Built in 1477 by Mameluke Sultan Abdul-Nasser Qa'it Bay using stone recycled from the ruined lighthouse, it attempted to defend the city against invaders from crusaders to Napoleon. Nearby, you can find the Alexandria Naval Unknown Soldier Memorial, a neoclassical structure built between 1927 and 1938 that serves as a striking backdrop for photos during the day or when illuminated at night. For a glimpse into ancient history, visit the Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa in the Carmouz district, where you can explore underground levels and burial chambers carved out from the 2nd to 4th century CE featuring a blend of pharaonic, Grecian, and Roman styles. Other notable landmarks include the 25-meter-high granite Pompey's Pillar, constructed in 297 CE in honor of the Emperor Diocletian, the marble tiers of the Roman amphitheatre at Kom el-Dikka with its 13 semicircular tiers and seats for up to 800 spectators, and the expansive grounds of Montaza Palace, built in 1892 and featuring over 80 hectares of gardens. Immerse yourself in the local culture through its diverse museums and religious sites. The Graeco-Roman Museum in the Latin quarter houses a vast collection from the Ptolemaic and Roman periods spanning the 3rd century BCE to the 3rd century CE, while the Alexandria National Museum showcases more than 1800 archaeological pieces ranging from prehistoric to Islamic eras. You can also visit the Royal Jewelry Museum in the Zizenia district or the Arabic Calligraphy Museum to see works featuring calligraphic scripts across various media. For a modern experience, the Bibliotheca Alexandrina serves as a massive research center and library featuring an antiquities museum and a planetarium. If you prefer the outdoors, you can spend time at Maa'moura Beach or Montazah Beach.
Three days in Alexandria
Day one, you can explore the historic atmosphere of Alexandria and take in views of the Mediterranean coast. You will find yourself immersed in the local character of this ancient city. Day two, you can wander through the Corniche and surrounding neighborhoods while taking in the sights of the waterfront. You can enjoy the surroundings as you navigate the local landscape and visit museums. Day three, you can spend your time exploring more of the city's religious sites and beaches, experiencing the unique blend of Hellenistic, Roman, and Islamic heritage that defines Alexandria.
Begin your exploration of this ancient Mediterranean port by wandering the Corniche at sunset, when the light catches the water and locals emerge for their evening stroll. From there, the layers of Alexandria's remarkable history await.