Provo

Introduction

Provo is a city in Utah County, Utah, and serves as the county seat. It is the principal city of the Provo–Orem–Lehi metropolitan area and anchors a metropolitan area in Utah second only to Salt Lake City's.

Before you go

Provo is dominated by the LDS (Mormon) church, and that shapes the rhythm of a visit: many businesses, including some gas stations, close on Sunday, so plan your errands and meals around that. If you're connected to BYU, note that students aren't required to practise the Mormon faith but must abide by the Mormon code of conduct while enrolled, which includes no premarital sex and no consumption of tea, coffee or alcohol. On BYU campus, nearly all campus services close on Tuesdays between 11AM and noon for weekly devotionals and forums, so time your visit accordingly.

When calling locally, dial the full number: the 801 area code must be dialed along with the local number, since the same area is also served by the 385 code.

Getting there

Provo has its own municipal airport served by multiple commercial airlines, but the most common approach is to fly into Salt Lake City and drive or catch a shuttle down. The drive follows I-15 and usually takes between 45 minutes and an hour, though heavy traffic can stretch it considerably; taking I-215 through the Salt Lake Valley until it meets I-15 can mean better conditions. By car, I-15 runs through the western half of the city, with exits for south Provo, downtown and Utah Lake, north Provo and Riverwoods via Orem, and Provo Canyon via Orem. Be aware that I-15 is undergoing heavy redevelopment — slow down, watch for construction workers, and expect delays. From the north, State St (from exit 279) through American Fork, Pleasant Grove, Lindon and Orem is often a viable surface-street alternative.

Greyhound stops in Provo on routes from Salt Lake, Las Vegas and Grand Junction, and Amtrak's California Zephyr calls daily between Emeryville and Chicago at a platform with no services. FrontRunner commuter rail links Provo to cities along the Wasatch Front including Salt Lake City and Ogden, with many stations intermodal and connected to UTA bus lines and TRAX. UTA buses and light rail also reach Provo from northern Utah and Salt Lake City, but scheduling is limited: much of the local network runs on a 30-minute or hourly schedule, with 15-minute service on some routes, so plan your transit carefully.

Getting around

Cars are the main way people get around Provo, and driving is the most practical option for most visits. Rental agencies operate in the city, including Enterprise Rent-a-Car on South University Avenue, Avis inside the Sears Auto Center at Provo Towne Centre, and Hertz at the Provo Marriott on West 100 North; you can also pick up a car at the Salt Lake City airport if you're flying in. Parking is generally easy to find around town, with the notable exception of the Brigham Young University campus, though permit parking there usually opens up to the public in the evenings. I-15 runs through the western half of the city, with exits serving south Provo, downtown and Utah Lake, north Provo and Riverwoods, and Provo Canyon, but heavy construction on the freeway means you should slow down and expect delays. From the north, State Street through American Fork, Pleasant Grove, Lindon and Orem can sometimes serve as a surface-street alternative.

UTA buses cover parts of Provo and Orem, but service elsewhere in Utah County is sparse, and local routes often run on a 30-minute or hourly schedule, so check timetables before you set out. FrontRunner commuter rail connects Provo to Salt Lake City and Ogden along the Wasatch Front, with many stations linking to UTA buses and TRAX light rail; the Provo station is on South Freedom Boulevard. Amtrak's California Zephyr also stops in Provo for long-distance travel, though its platform has no services, so arrive self-sufficient. Greyhound stops on North 300 West with routes to Salt Lake, Las Vegas and Grand Junction. Most streets follow a grid layout, which makes walking reasonably straightforward, and new cycling paths are being built throughout the city. Two cautions: the boundary between Provo and Orem is often unmarked, so check that an address is in the right city, and don't confuse University Avenue, which runs north–south through Provo, with University Parkway (the "Diagonal"), which runs through both cities.

Where to stay

Downtown puts you within walking distance of the Marriott Hotel & Conference Center, a full-service hotel with a pool, fitness center, laundry, and onsite restaurants. The Hines Mansion Bed & Breakfast, the city's only B&B, sits a few blocks away with themed rooms and a gourmet breakfast included. South Provo, near the Provo Towne Centre, has a cluster of practical chain options including the Hampton Inn & Suites and the Sleep Inn, the latter of which allows pets for a fee.

If you're visiting BYU, the SpringHill Suites on North Freedom Boulevard is within walking distance of campus and shares its complex with a couple of restaurants. Along the Provo River trail, the Residence Inn offers a free shuttle, laundry, fitness center, and indoor pool. For a mountain escape, the Sundance Resort up Provo Canyon has standard rooms, studios, suites, and multi-bedroom homes. Campers have several choices: campgrounds along the shore of Deer Creek Reservoir in Provo Canyon with showers and drinking water, a lakeside campground at Utah Lake State Park, and the RV-friendly Lakeside RV & Campground near the Utah Lake marina. Rock Canyon Campground, up a partially paved road between Squaw Peak and Y Mountain, is the most isolated option, with no water and vault toilets, but excellent access to climbing and hiking.

Food & drink

Provo is a college town, and its eating scene reflects that: casual, student-friendly and strong on treats. For burgers and sandwiches, try Burgers Supreme in Brigham's Landing, which also does salads, ice cream and sides like "Zucchini Stix" and taquitos, or head to J-Dawgs for gourmet hotdogs — the Polish hotdog with "special sauce" is the thing to order, and it's popular with BYU students. Guru's downtown is a chic, creative cafe serving breakfast, sandwiches, salads, wraps and pasta, often with live music in the evenings, while Café Zupas covers soup, salads and sandwiches and Cafe Rio brings Mexican chain food that's popular with students. Pizza is well represented: SLABpizza, just south of BYU campus, serves really big slices, Nicolitalia Pizzeria is one of the many pizzerias in town, and Brick Oven near campus has been a staple for decades, known for its pizza and homemade rootbeer.

For something more substantial, Bombay House is an authentic Indian restaurant downtown, started by a BYU student from India and known for its naan and lassis; La Dolce Vita is a family-owned Italian place serving Napoli cuisine; and Shoots is a Chinese restaurant in the Shops at Riverwoods. As a college town, Provo has plenty of places for family and "date night" treats. BYU Creamery is known for its ice cream, with a burger grill at the main location and outlets around campus, and Macey's grocery store serves huge soft-serve cones — head to the bakery/deli counter to order. For a drink, ABG's downtown is a bar mainly serving beer, with live bands and pub grub.

What to see and do

Provo Canyon, just north of the city along Highway 89, is where you'll find Bridal Veil Falls, a tall waterfall you can see from the road or from a viewing station; a short walking and biking trail leads to the base, and a steeper path climbs to the middle level. East of town, the Wasatch Range draws hikers, campers and skiers, and the Alpine Loop scenic drive circles Mount Timpanogos through Provo Canyon and American Fork Canyon in the warmer months. In town, downtown Provo holds a dense collection of historic architecture alongside restaurants and shops, and you can pick up a self-guided walking tour booklet at the Provo City Library or the Utah Valley Visitors Center to find the County Courthouse and other historic buildings, including the Provo City Center Temple, whose exterior was restored after a fire gutted the original tabernacle.

Brigham Young University anchors the city's cultural life. Start at the visitors' desk in the Hinckley Center for an overview and an optional guided tour, then work through the campus museums: the Museum of Art for rotating exhibitions and a permanent collection, the Monte L. Bean Life Science Museum for taxidermied animals in natural habitats and weekday evening or Saturday public shows that usually include live animals, the Museum of Paleontology for dinosaur fossils and a Jurassic exhibit, and the small Museum of Peoples and Cultures for cultural anthropology. The Harold B. Lee Library and the Harris Fine Arts Center hold further exhibits and student art, and BYU hosts plays and concerts most nights, largely at the Harris Fine Arts Center. Sports fans can catch a BYU Cougars team in season. Elsewhere, the Provo Pioneer Museum and its recreated Pioneer Village display pioneer artifacts and history, the Museum of Mormon History of the Americas covers Mormons in Mexico, and the Utah State Hospital Museum chronicles a mental health hospital operating since the 1880s, with notable architecture on the surrounding campus. The Provo Utah Temple sits on a hill overlooking the city; its grounds and fountains are open to all even though only members may enter. Around the Fourth of July, America's Freedom Festival brings a parade, balloon fest, carnival rides and other events.

Three days in Provo

Day one: Start in Provo, the seat of Utah County, and get your bearings along State St before turning toward the BYU campus, where you can spend time exploring the university grounds. In the evening, head to the Riverwoods area for a meal and a stroll.

Day two: Use Provo as your base for the wider valley. Head north to Orem, Pleasant Grove, Lindon, American Fork or Lehi, or drive up Provo Canyon for a change of scenery. If you are visiting on a Sunday, keep in mind that many businesses close and the area's LDS character shapes the day's rhythm.

Day three: Take a day trip toward Salt Lake City, whether by FrontRunner along the Wasatch Front or by other transit, and use TRAX to get around once you arrive. Alternatively, stay closer to home and spend the day near Utah Lake. Greyhound and Amtrak connections, including the California Zephyr, serve the region if you are continuing onward.