Waco

Introduction

Waco sits along the Brazos River in McLennan County, Texas, roughly halfway between Dallas and Austin on I-35. That position makes it an easy stop on a drive across the state, and the city anchors a metropolitan area that also takes in Falls and Bosque counties.

Before you go

Waco sits at the crossroads of major railroads on the Brazos River, and its history runs from a nineteenth-century cattle-shipping junction to the invention of Dr Pepper in 1885. The city is also widely known for the 1993 stand-off between federal agents and the Branch Davidians, which took place outside the city rather than in it; most residents are tired of the subject and would rather talk about something else. Since 2014, the Magnolia Silos have drawn visitors from around the world following the Fixer Upper show.

Waco has a reputation for a higher-than-normal crime rate for a small to medium-sized city, so exercise normal caution. Most violent crime occurs in residential areas away from places visitors tend to go; if you find yourself in such an area, usually for dining, drive with the doors locked, avoid drawing attention to yourself, and don't stare at other drivers. Don't be in Cameron Park at night unless you're with a large group. Pedestrians are less common here than in many places, so if you walk, watch for drivers who may not see you, and expect sidewalks to be in poor condition or absent. Tornadoes are infrequent but tend to be very strong when they hit; if a warning is issued, don't panic, turn on local news for updates, and follow any directions from the weatherperson, hotel staff, or public officials. On the Baylor campus, the Baylor Police emergency number can bring a faster response than 911.

Getting there

Waco Regional Airport (ACT) receives American Airlines flights connecting to Dallas-Fort Worth International Airport. If you're flying into a larger hub, Austin-Bergstrom International, Dallas Love Field and Dallas-Fort Worth International are each roughly a 1-hour 40-minute drive from Waco.

• By car: Waco sits on I-35, about a 90-minute drive south of Dallas and the same north of Austin. From Houston, take State Highway 6, a drive of about three hours.
• By bus: The Greyhound terminal is in the center of downtown, on S 8th St between Mary Ave and Jackson Ave.
• By train: Amtrak doesn't serve Waco directly. The nearest station is in McGregor, a small community about 15 miles west on Highway 84, on the Texas Eagle route between Los Angeles, San Antonio and Chicago. Trains run once daily, northbound in late morning and southbound in late afternoon. No scheduled public transport links McGregor to Waco, so you'll need a taxi or private transport for the final leg.
• By boat: The Brazos River runs through downtown, but shallowness, dams and falls make arriving by boat a challenge. A more practical option is to launch a kayak or canoe at the Lake Whitney dam, roughly 40 miles upstream, and float downstream into the city.

Getting around

For getting around Waco, the car is king. The city sits on Interstate 35, roughly halfway between Dallas and Austin, and driving is the most practical way to cover both the city and its surroundings. Waco Transit runs a public bus system, but it has few stops and only operates during the daytime, so it's of limited use if you want to sightsee on a flexible schedule. There's no metro, tram, or light rail. Plan your days around a rental car, or a mix of walking downtown and ride-hailing for longer hops — taxis and private transport are also the sensible fallback in the evening, when Waco Transit isn't running.

• Walking works best in the downtown core, where you'll find the Greyhound terminal and the Brazos River waterfront; the historic Waco Suspension Bridge, open only to pedestrians since 1971, is a walkable landmark over the river. Outside downtown the city spreads out, so a car or a ride is more realistic.
• Waco has no Amtrak service. The nearest station is in McGregor, west of Waco on Highway 84, served by the Texas Eagle; trains run once daily, and because there's no scheduled public transport from McGregor, you'll need a taxi or private transport into the city.
• For longer-distance travel, Greyhound has a terminal in the center of downtown on S 8th St, and FlixBus serves Waco with direct routes from a number of cities; its stop is on S 5th St, where buses board along the gas station curb.
• Beyond the urban area, the McLennan County Rural Transit District, operated by Waco Transit System, provides curb-to-curb service for the general public in the county outside the urbanized area; rides must be scheduled in advance based on availability, though same-day service is possible.

Where to stay

Food & drink

Waco has a strong claim on the soft drink world: Dr Pepper originated here, and it's the drink to try. Look for the Dublin Dr Pepper made with pure cane sugar rather than high fructose corn syrup.

For eating, start with the local institutions. Schmaltz's Sandwich Shop has been baking its bread fresh each morning since the 1970s, so sandwiches arrive warm, and two soups are served daily, one always Wisconsin cheddar cheese. Vitek's BBQ has drawn hungry crowds since 1915; if you have a big appetite, order the Gut Pak, a monster sandwich of Fritos, cheese, chopped beef, beans, sausage, pickles, onions and jalapeños, and enjoy it with a beer in the covered outdoor area. George's Restaurant and Bar, around since the 1930s, is known for chicken fried steak and an extremely large serving of beer called the "Big O." Kitok's is a popular hole in the wall where regulars favor the Lip Locker hamburger, a double-patty cheeseburger, and the oriental fries, though the Asian dishes are also good. Lolita's Tortilleria, a locally owned Mexican spot downtown, serves breakfast and lunch all day and has a one-of-a-kind queso. Dubl-R Burgers and Fuego Tortilla Grill, a 24-hour Tex-Mex place popular with students, cover burgers and tacos.

• Poppa Rollo's Pizza, founded in 1969, serves Italian food, sandwiches and a health-lite section of vegetarian and organic-style pizzas; service is brisk and somewhat rude, very New York style.
• Clay Pot on Franklin Avenue offers affordable Asian food, including the clay pot dish it's named for, in a room decorated with Vietnamese art and lowered tables with pillow cushions; it's b.y.o.b., and the tea is free.
• Baris is a small, family-owned Italian restaurant, inexpensive and authentic.
• Diamond Back's Texas Bistro, downtown near the Brazos River in a historic warehouse district, is the city's best steak house and its most expensive, with Angus beef and garlic mashed potatoes in a rustic, sophisticated room.
• Magnolia Table, owned by Chip and Joanna, specializes in homegrown foods and workshops.

For coffee and nightlife, Common Grounds is a local coffee shop and concert site with free Wi-Fi. Dancing Bear Pub is a small, locally owned pub with a nice selection, and sandwiches are available next door at Food for Thought. Scruffy Murphy's is a classic college dive bar popular with Baylor students, especially on karaoke nights.

What to see and do

Waco's biggest draw is the Waco Mammoth National Monument, the site of the only nursery herd of Columbian mammoths found in North America. On Baylor University's campus, the Armstrong Browning Library holds the world's largest collection of works related to Robert and Elizabeth Barrett Browning, housed in a building with stained glass windows depicting themes from their poetry. The Mayborn Museum Complex, across from Baylor, walks you through the natural history of central Texas with walk-in dioramas of a limestone cave, a Texas forest and the mammoth dig, plus hands-on discovery rooms and the Governor Bill & Vara Daniel Historic Village, an 1890s village moved from Liberty. Art lovers can stop by Baylor's Martin Museum of Art, which rotates exhibits by artists from around the country, or the Art Center of Waco, a gallery and studio offering classes and an open studio.

Outdoors, Cameron Park spreads across hundreds of acres of trees and trails upstream from downtown, lined by the Brazos and Bosque rivers, with paths for running, walking, biking and horseback riding, plus pavilions, a disc golf course, fishing and boating facilities and a free spray park. Cameron Park Zoo sits next to the Brazos and meanders through lush landscapes with animals from Africa, Asia, South America, North America and Madagascar, including a lemur exhibit and a Texas ranch house. The Waco Suspension Bridge, built in 1870 as the first bridge across the Brazos, is now a walking bridge popular for photos and picnics, and locals play a game of tossing tortillas from it at a concrete pillar in the river. Lake Waco offers fishing, camping, boating, swimming and trails.

For indoor history, the Dr Pepper Museum occupies the original bottling plant of the soft drink invented in Waco in 1885, and its vintage soda fountain serves Dr Pepper mixed straight from the tap. The Texas Ranger Hall of Fame and Museum is the official museum of the Texas Rangers, the Texas Sports Hall of Fame covers Texas athletes across many sports, and the Red Men Museum and Library displays artifacts such as a desk that belonged to Aaron Burr and a peace blanket that belonged to Geronimo. North of town, Homestead Heritage recreates 1800s life with a restored barn of handmade crafts and furniture, a deli, and tours of an herb farm, gristmill, pottery barn and blacksmith shop. The Alico Building, once the tallest in the Southwest, can be photographed from outside, though its interior is closed to the public.

When to go

Waco has a humid subtropical climate, with hot summers and generally mild winters. Summer brings intense heat, so plan outdoor activity accordingly — the city's record high was set in late July. Winters are generally mild, but cold snaps are possible even in an otherwise mild season; the record low came on January 31. Readings at both extremes have occurred in every month, so check conditions before you pack.

Three days in Waco

Day one: Start in downtown Waco and get your bearings along the Brazos River, which shapes the city and its McLennan County setting. Wander toward the Magnolia Silos, the complex tied to the Fixer Upper television series, and give yourself time to browse rather than rush. Later, head for Cameron Park, where the trails and river views make an easy introduction to the city's outdoor side.

Day two: Spend the morning on Baylor's campus, then continue at a slower pace through the streets near St Mary Ave and Jackson Ave. If you're arriving by air, note that Waco Regional Airport serves the city, while Dallas Love Field, Fort Worth International Airport and Bergstrom International in Austin are the bigger options further afield. Greyhound and Amtrak connections, including service via McGregor, make Waco reachable without a car.

Day three: Take a final walk along the Brazos River and through Cameron Park before you leave. Pedestrians should keep an eye on traffic, and remember that tornadoes are a seasonal risk in this part of Texas. If your schedule allows, the drive to Dallas, Austin or Fort Worth is straightforward from State Highway routes out of the city.