Providence

Introduction

Providence is the capital and most populous city of Rhode Island, and the seat of Providence County. It sits within New England as the region's third-most populous city, and its metropolitan area reaches beyond the state line into Massachusetts.

Before you go

Providence has a humid continental climate with a subtropical influence, so expect high humidity year-round. Summers are hot and wet, winters cold and snowy, and rain or snow is a regular feature of every season. The city's position on Narragansett Bay keeps temperatures milder than inland New England, but it also leaves Providence open to the occasional hurricane, though these are rare. Pack for the season you're visiting and plan for precipitation regardless of the month.

Before you arrive, it helps to know how the city is laid out. Most of what you'll want to see sits east of Interstate 95, with Federal Hill as a notable exception. The downtown core, including Kennedy Plaza and Washington Street, can feel dodgy at night, and the club areas on the outskirts of downtown have drawn trouble in the past. Late nights on Federal Hill are known for drunken misbehavior, so take care in its bar and club district. South Providence and Olneyville are best avoided, though Olneyville's New York System is worth a quick stop for hot dogs if you don't linger in the neighbourhood. The Camp Street area of the East Side is another spot to skip after dark. The city's visitor centre, run by the Providence Warwick Convention and Visitors Bureau, sits downtown inside the Rhode Island Convention Center and offers maps, brochures, and information on hotels, restaurants, shopping, and attractions.

Getting there

If you're arriving by plane, T.F. Green Airport (PVD) sits in nearby Warwick, south of the city, and handles many low-cost and regular flights to cities across the United States. From there you can drive north on I-95, a trip of roughly twenty minutes, or take RIPTA buses #14 and #20 to Kennedy Plaza downtown — the #14 is the express option, while the #20 makes more stops and takes longer. The MBTA also runs commuter trains from the airport to downtown Providence on weekdays. For international flights, Boston Logan International Airport (BOS) is the larger option; by car it's about an hour south on I-95, though traffic can stretch that considerably, and by public transit you take the MBTA Silver Line bus to South Station and then a commuter train to downtown Providence, leaving you in the center of the city.

Train is the easiest way in if you're coming from any major city along the Boston–DC line, and Providence station on Gaspee Street, across from the Rhode Island State House, puts you within reach of all of downtown and the area around Brown. Amtrak's Acela and Northeast Regional both stop here, with the Acela running multiple times daily between Boston and Washington, D.C. and the Northeast Regional offering the most frequent service along the corridor. From Boston, the MBTA Commuter Rail on the Providence/Stoughton Line is a cheaper option than Amtrak, though the trip takes longer. By car, I-95 serves you well from the Boston or New York areas, Rt. 146 is better from Worcester or western Massachusetts, and I-195 connects to Cape Cod and eastern Massachusetts. Long-distance buses also arrive at Kennedy Plaza, including Bonanza Bus Lines and Greyhound, while Megabus stops on Canal Street at Park Row, across from the Roger Williams National Memorial, with daily service from New York City.

Getting around

Downtown Providence is compact and easily covered on foot, which makes walking the simplest way to move between the central sights. Some parking is available throughout the city, but RIPTA's public transport network is extensive and a practical alternative to driving. Public transit here is almost entirely buses, and they are on-time, reliable, with much of the fleet new. Kennedy Plaza is RIPTA's downtown bus station and central hub, well laid out with digital displays at each terminal showing when the next bus will arrive. RIPTA serves all of Rhode Island, and passes — one-day, 10-day, 15-day, and monthly — can be bought inside the Kennedy Plaza bus station or at a Rhode Island Stop and Shop or Shaw's. Seniors and disabled riders pay half price during non-peak hours with ID, and students at some local colleges can buy discounted passes or use their school ID cards, though the policy varies by school.

• Two downtown lines run entirely on natural gas trackless trolleys, called the Providence LINK Trolley, and cover most of historic Providence. E-riptiks and ride passes can be purchased on board or at local Shaw's and Stop and Shop supermarkets.
• Providence station, across from the Rhode Island State House, is the central train station and is convenient to all of downtown and the area around Brown. Amtrak's Acela runs multiple times daily between Boston and Washington, D.C., while the Northeast Regional connects Boston, New York City, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington, D.C. MBTA Commuter Rail runs between Boston and Providence on the Providence/Stoughton Line — cheaper than Amtrak from Boston, though slower. Tickets bought aboard rather than at the station carry a surcharge.
• From T.F. Green Airport in nearby Warwick, take I-95 North by car, or the #14 and #20 buses to Kennedy Plaza — the #14 is an express taking 15–25 minutes, the #20 makes more stops and takes about 40 minutes. The MBTA also runs trains from the airport to downtown.
• From Boston Logan, drive via I-95 South, or take the MBTA Silver Line bus to South Station and then a commuter train to downtown Providence; allow roughly 1 hour 30 minutes plus waiting time if you haven't planned which train to catch.
• By car, I-95 serves from the Boston and New York areas, Route 146 from Worcester or western Massachusetts, and I-195 from Cape Cod and eastern Massachusetts. Intercity buses also serve the city: RIPTA regional services and Bonanza Bus Lines use Kennedy Plaza, Greyhound serves Providence, and Megabus stops at Canal Street at Park Row, across from Roger Williams National Memorial.

Where to stay

Food & drink

What to see and do

Providence rewards walking, and much of what you'll want to see is clustered on the East Side and downtown. Benefit Street on College Hill is tree-lined and holds an outstanding collection of 18th- and 19th-century houses and mansions; nearby Prospect Park on Congdon Street offers a relaxed overlook of the downtown skyline and the Rhode Island State House, and is a common spot for weddings, picnics or simply lying on the lawn. Brown University's Ivy League campus dates to the 1700s and features buildings from nearly every American architectural movement; it's best visited between May and September, when school is largely out of session and the weather is amenable to walking. The monumental Rhode Island State House, finished in 1901, anchors downtown, which also holds a number of beautiful 19th-century buildings in a variety of styles. The RISD Museum and Roger Williams Park Zoo each offer days of sightseeing for adults and children alike, and Roger Williams Park itself is an elaborately landscaped expanse in the southern part of the city with lakes and numerous museums. Waterplace Park, finished in 1994, follows the downtown rivers below the level of automobile traffic along cobblestone paths, and connects to the Riverwalk, a cobblestone-paved pedestrian route along the waterfront.

Federal Hill, just west of downtown and reachable by walking, biking or trolley, is one of the city's oldest neighbourhoods and is known for its Italian heritage, with shopping, dining and nightlife, plus bakeries and pastry and confection shops. Running roughly parallel to Atwells Avenue is Broadway, lined with large Victorian mansions. The East Side, which starts east of Waterplace Park and takes in College Hill and beyond, is home to the Rhode Island School of Design and Brown, and is great for walking, browsing the eclectic shops along Thayer Street, and viewing the city from Prospect Park. For events, Waterfire sets a string of fires alight on the three rivers through downtown, illuminating nearly two-thirds of a mile as residents and visitors stroll the river; the fires burn from sunset to past midnight on select evenings, typically weekends, from April or May through October, accompanied by classical and world music. A free Friday night concert series kicks off at Waterplace Park in June, featuring jazz, folk, hip-hop and rock. Federal Hill hosts the Feast of St. Joseph in May, "The Stroll" in June and October (a walk with restaurant and shop samples), and Columbus Day weekend festivities with a parade and outdoor vendors. Rhode Island Pride takes place in summer, usually June, with daytime events and a nighttime parade downtown. For theatre and music, the Providence Performing Arts Center hosts Broadway productions, children's shows and popular entertainment; AS220 is a community art centre with musical performances and poetry slams; Trinity Repertory Company produces premiere plays; and downtown's Amica Mutual Pavilion, Rhode Island Convention Center and Strand Ballroom host concerts, functions and live music. Many nightclubs are found downtown, particularly along Richmond Street.

When to go

Providence has a humid continental climate with a subtropical influence, and humidity stays high all year. Summers are hot and wet, with sweltering spells and bouts of rainfall; the Atlantic coastal position moderates the heat somewhat, but you should still expect sticky, uncomfortable days and warm nights. Winters are cold and snowy, with snowfall and blizzards regularly hitting the city, though the coast keeps temperatures relatively warmer than inland New England. Spring often brings bouts of rainfall as conditions shift from cold winter weather toward the hot, wet summer.

Autumn sits between the hot wet summer and the cold snowy winter, with precipitation remaining a mainstay and the coastal location keeping temperatures relatively warm. Hurricanes are rare but possible given the city's position on Narragansett Bay.

Three days in Providence

Day one: Arrive in Providence and get your bearings. If you are flying in, Green Airport (PVD) in Warwick is the closest option, while Boston Logan International Airport (BOS) is another possibility, with the MBTA Silver Line connecting to South Station for the train onward. Once in the city, start downtown around Kennedy Plaza and Washington Street, then head to Federal Hill for its Italian character and something to eat. In the evening, walk along the waterfront on Narragansett Bay.

Day two: Explore the East Side, with its historic streets and college atmosphere, then cross to the Camp Street area. Stop by the Rhode Island Convention Center and the Providence Warwick Convention and Visitors Bureau for local information. Later, head to Olneyville for a New York System hot wiener, a Providence specialty.

Day three: Use RIPTA to reach South Providence and see another side of the city. If you have time before leaving, return downtown for a last look at Kennedy Plaza. Summers here are warm and humid, so plan accordingly. From Providence, trains via the MBTA make Boston an easy onward trip.