Cincinnati
Introduction
Cincinnati sits on the northern bank of the Ohio River, where the Licking River joins it, and the far shore marks the state line with Kentucky. Settled in 1788, it is the seat of Hamilton County and the economic and cultural hub of a metropolitan area that reaches across three states. As a river city, Cincinnati anchors a region that draws on Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana alike, and its position at the water's edge has shaped it from its earliest days.Before you go
Plan your trip around summer or fall, the peak tourist seasons. If you visit in winter or early spring, expect that some activities and sights may have shortened hours or be closed altogether. The city has four distinct seasons: winters range from harsh to mild, while summer and early fall are hot and humid. Snowy days rarely impair driving on Cincinnati's hilliest roads, but snow in Northern Kentucky is a greater concern because of the increased number of hills and rural roads, which are not treated as quickly as roads in Southwest Ohio. If you plan to drive through Northern Kentucky during a snowy period, be extremely careful and phone ahead to confirm your destination is still accessible.
Before you arrive, it helps to understand the city's layout and character. Cincinnati is still a work in progress, with an odd mix of abandoned buildings next to high-end restaurants and boutiques, and a rivalry persists between the "East Side" and "West Side" — historically the West Side was blue collar while the East Side was white collar. Over-the-Rhine, with its faded German signs on densely built ornate Victorian buildings, is a popular destination but still in a transition phase; the safest parts are along Vine Street from Central Parkway to just north of 14th Street, Main Street up to Liberty, and the area around Washington Park, which is monitored by security cameras. These areas are well lit at night with a constant police presence, but use caution wandering off by yourself in Over-the-Rhine at night, as the neighborhood is inconsistent in its makeup. A good rule of thumb is to stay on the major streets, Vine and Main, and stay south of Liberty; travel in a group if possible, or call a cab. Mount Adams is the safest neighborhood near downtown, while you should take care, particularly at night, in Avondale, Walnut Hills (though East Walnut Hills is fine), The West End, and parts of Over-the-Rhine. Downtown is generally safe, but it's safer to park your car in a monitored lot than on the street, and you may encounter panhandlers — most aren't harmful, so use common sense and firmly say no if approached. For visitor information, the Cincinnati USA Visitor Center is at 511 Walnut St on Fountain Square.
Getting there
Flying into Cincinnati means arriving at Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International Airport, which sits on the Kentucky side of the Ohio River, so you'll cross the bridge into the city itself. The airport is a focus city for Delta Air Lines, with daily flights to many of the largest U.S. cities plus nonstop service to France, Canada, and Mexico, and it's also a focus city for the ultra-low-cost carriers Allegiant Air and Frontier Airlines, which fly across the United States and the Caribbean. Air Canada, American, Southwest, and United also serve the airport, and Apple Vacations and Vacation Express handle package service to Cancun, Montego Bay, and Punta Cana. Fares, once historically high, have become more competitive. If you're flying your own private plane or have chartered a flight, Cincinnati Municipal Lunken Airport is the other option, and Ultimate Air Shuttle runs small jets between Lunken and Chicago, New York City, Charlotte, and Cleveland.
By car, Cincinnati is served by Interstates 71, 74, 75, 471, and the 275 beltway, with US 50 acting as an expressway to the eastern neighborhoods via Columbia Parkway and to the western ones via the Sixth Street Expressway. Driving northbound into downtown on Interstate 71/75 brings you to the "Cut-in-the-Hill," a panoramic view that appears once you pass the signs warning of a steep grade — though traffic on the Brent Spence Bridge can back up, especially at rush hour. Amtrak's Cardinal stops at Union Terminal, about a mile from downtown, three times weekly between Chicago and New York City, with all trains calling during the night, so plan on a taxi to finish your journey. Greyhound's station is downtown, while Megabus serves the city from Chicago and Indianapolis with a stop near the University of Cincinnati that has better transit connections than its isolated Gest Street location; Baron's Bus, aimed at college students, also stops at the university and runs throughout Ohio, Michigan, and West Virginia.
Getting around
Public transport in Cincinnati is built around buses, and the region is split between two systems. The Southwest Ohio Regional Transit Authority (Sorta) runs Metro on the Ohio side, while the Transit Authority of Northern Kentucky (Tank) covers Northern Kentucky and the cross-river routes. Both require exact fare with no change given, and their fare systems differ, so check your route before boarding. Express lines marked with an "X" stop less frequently, and not every bus serves every destination, so confirm yours before getting on. Most routes funnel into Downtown, which means travelling between neighbourhoods often involves passing through the centre or transferring. The Cincinnati Frequent Transit Map, put together by a local resident, shows which parts of town are well served and which are not.
For sightseeing, Metro's Route 1 loops between Union Terminal Museum Center, downtown's theatres and museums, the riverfront stadiums and parks, Mount Adams, Eden Park and Krohn Conservatory, ending in Walnut Hills. It runs less often than you might expect, so pick up a schedule first. Route 17 is one of the more frequent services and is useful for Over-the-Rhine, the University of Cincinnati, Clifton and Northside, with a ride up to the hilltop neighbourhoods that shows off the area's Victorian architecture. To cross into Kentucky, the Southbank Shuttle loops the riverfront on both sides, stopping at Fountain Square, The Banks, Newport on the Levee and Roebling Point; its old-fashioned trolley look makes it easy to spot. The Cincinnati Bell Connector streetcar runs a loop between Findlay Market in Over-the-Rhine and the Riverfront Transit Center, and no fare is required to ride.
Taxis can be hailed anywhere and are easy to find downtown and in Over-the-Rhine, but much harder elsewhere; rates are not set by the city or state, so ask about fares before you commit. Ride-hailing apps are available, though surge pricing can hit hard after games and during big events. Walking works well in the older neighbourhoods, particularly the Clifton Gaslight District around Ludlow, Over-the-Rhine, Mount Adams and Downtown, but much of the city is spread out and car-oriented, and some historic districts see little foot traffic. Downtown also has a free indoor Skywalk, partly dismantled but still useful for avoiding the weather, and the city has hundreds of hillside steps for the adventurous.
Where to stay
For your stay, look beyond the city line: Covington and the other Northern Kentucky cities just across the Ohio River are practically contiguous with downtown Cincinnati, so basing yourself there is not an inconvenient option. Many Covington hotels play up their proximity to their more famous neighbour, and from Covington it is a short drive, walk or bus ride across the bridge to get back to downtown Cincinnati — the Southbank Shuttle makes the crossing without a car.
Food & drink
Cincinnati's signature dish is its chili, built on a Macedonian recipe: finely ground meat with no beans or onions, spiced with cinnamon or cocoa powder and less tomato than you might expect. Order it over spaghetti with a mound of finely shredded Cheddar and you have a "three-way"; add diced white onions or kidney beans for a "four-way", or both for a "five-way". The same chili tops hot dogs as a "cheese coney". Where to find the best version is a long-running argument, with the big parlor chains dominant but plenty of independent parlors and smaller chains claiming loyal followings. Goetta (pronounced "get-uh") is the other local tradition, a German-immigrant sausage of pork or beef mixed with oats and spices, sliced and fried, most often eaten at breakfast though goetta sandwiches are popular too. For nightlife, the center of gravity has shifted toward the area around Fountain Square and the Aronoff Center, along Restaurant Row between 8th and 5th Streets, Vine and Main. It draws a young professional crowd and stays busy on weekends, with new bars and clubs steadily opening. The Main Street Entertainment District in Over-the-Rhine, north of 12th Street, was once the city's bar hub before the riots of the 2000s closed most of it down; recent years have brought notable spots back. Across the Ohio River in Kentucky, Covington's Mainstrasse District and the area around Newport on the Levee hold many restaurants and nightspots. Loosened microbrewery laws and renewed interest in the city's brewing heritage have also produced a growing scene of tap rooms, a good way to drink microbrew straight from the source.What to see and do
Cincinnati rewards exploration on foot, whether you're crossing the Ohio River or wandering its historic streets. The Purple People Bridge and the John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge both offer distinctive views of the Queen City skyline with the Ohio River in the foreground. The city also holds an impressive assortment of 19th-century architecture, with parts of town that may remind you of large East Coast cities like Boston or Brooklyn. Museums abound: the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center, the Cincinnati Art Museum, the Taft Museum of Art, the Cincinnati Museum Center (natural history and children's exhibits), and the American Sign Museum. For natural experiences, head to the Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Garden or the Krohn Conservatory. Sports are taken extremely seriously here, and everyone roots for the Reds and the Bengals. College basketball, however, is where the city divides: the Crosstown Shootout is the annual matchup between the University of Cincinnati and Xavier University, one of the most intense rivalries in all of college basketball. The two schools alternate hosting duties after a stretch at the neutral-site arena in the Central Business District. Renewed interest in the oldest parts of the city has brought an increasing number of tours highlighting Cincinnati's golden age, and during events like Oktoberfest or Bockfest you may find additional tours covering the city's brewing heritage or even rare ventures into the abandoned subway tunnels. These aren't well advertised to out-of-towners, so inquire locally or check local blogs.When to go
Cincinnati has four distinct seasons, so what you pack and plan depends heavily on when you visit. Winters here range from harsh to mild, with temperatures dropping to the low 30s F. Snowy days are normally few and rarely impair driving on the city's hilliest roads, but snow in Northern Kentucky is of exceptional concern because its hills and rural roads are not treated as quickly as those in Southwest Ohio. If you're driving through Northern Kentucky during a snowy period, be extremely careful and phone ahead to confirm your destination is accessible.
- Winter: Cold, with lows around the low 30s F; conditions can swing between harsh and mild. Snow is usually limited, but take extra care on Northern Kentucky's hills and rural roads.
- Summer and early fall: Hot and humid, with temperatures reaching the upper 70s to mid-90s F. Heat indices average around 89 F during the day and 68 F at night, though particularly hot and sweltering days can push heat indices to 102 F without dropping below 75 F at night.
Three days in Cincinnati
Day one: Start downtown, where the Cincinnati USA Visitor Center on Walnut St can help you get your bearings. From there, walk the blocks around Vine Street, Main Street and Liberty, and take in Washington Park. Cross into Over-the-Rhine, the German neighbourhood of Victorian streets, and follow Vine and Main for its character. Later, climb to Mount Adams for views over the Ohio River toward Kentucky.
Day two: Give the day to the neighbourhoods beyond the centre. Head to the East Side for Walnut Hills and East Walnut Hills, then continue to Avondale. On the West Side, visit the West End. Between stops, use Central Parkway as a useful spine back toward Downtown. If the weather turns snowy, keep to the closer streets and the riverfront rather than ranging far.
Day three: Look outward from the city. The Ohio River shapes Cincinnati, with the Licking River meeting it nearby and Kentucky just across the water; Northern Kentucky and Southwest Ohio are both within easy reach. Settled around Hamilton County, the city sits where Ohio, Indiana and Kentucky come close together. Plan a slower final day along the river, then return to the centre before you leave.