Hartford

Introduction

Hartford is the capital city of Connecticut, set in Hartford County within the Capitol Planning Region. It anchors the Greater Hartford metropolitan area, which spreads well beyond the city line into surrounding communities.

As the state capital and the region's core city, Hartford is the natural base for exploring central Connecticut. The city and its wider metropolitan area together form the focus of this guide.

Before you go

Hartford is one of the oldest cities in the United States, and its long history shows in landmarks like Bushnell Park, the country's oldest publicly funded park, and the Hartford Courant, its oldest continuously published newspaper. The city sits at the heart of the Knowledge Corridor, a region it shares with Springfield, Massachusetts, just to the north, and which counts dozens of universities and colleges among its institutions.

The climate is hot humid continental: winters are moderately cold with some snow, while summers are hot and humid, with heat indices that can climb to sweltering levels on the hottest days. Hartford is generally a safe city, and the areas with the attractions, colleges, shops, nightclubs and restaurants are safe. Most violence is confined to the north end, including areas north and west of downtown, excluding the North Meadows and West End. Downtown, the West End, the South End and the North Meadows are all fairly safe; the West End in particular is extremely safe and patrolled by university police as well as city police. In the South End, be cautious when driving, as drivers can be wild and pedestrians often do not confine themselves to crosswalks. If you drive through the north end at night, keep your doors locked.

Getting there

Hartford sits at the junction of Interstates 91 and 84, along with Connecticut Routes 2 and 6, so driving is straightforward from most directions. From Boston or Worcester, take I-90 West (tolled) and then I-84 West; from Springfield, I-91 South; from New Haven, I-91 North; from New York City, I-95 North or the Hutchinson River Parkway/Merritt Parkway (CT-15 North) and then I-91 North; from Danbury or Waterbury, I-84 East; and from Providence, Route 6 West followed by I-384 West. If you're flying in, Bradley International Airport (BDL) is about 15 miles north of the city in nearby Windsor Locks, reachable by car along I-91, with CT Transit's Bus 30 running between the airport and downtown. A cheaper option from a distant city is to fly into Boston Logan International Airport and continue by bus.

Trains arrive at Hartford Union Station on 1 Union Place, a few blocks east of downtown. Amtrak's Hartford Line runs between Springfield and New Haven with stops in Windsor Locks, Windsor, Hartford, Berlin, Meriden and Wallingford, while the Northeast Regional and the Vermonter connect Hartford with cities along the Northeast Corridor, including New York City, Philadelphia, Baltimore and Washington, D.C.; the Valley Flyer also serves the route between Greenfield and New Haven. CTrail's Hartford Line covers the same route, with travel time to Hartford of about 45 minutes from New Haven and 40 minutes from Springfield. By bus, Greyhound serves Hartford Union Station from Springfield, New Haven, New York City and Boston, Peter Pan Bus runs express buses there from cities across the Northeast, and Go Buses connects Manhattan, Cambridge, Newton and New Haven with the Morgan Street Bus Station.

Getting around

Hartford is a compact capital city, and how easily you move around depends a lot on where you stay. Downtown and the West End are the most walkable neighbourhoods, with cafes, restaurants, shops and cultural attractions clustered together. Elsewhere, sprawl and car dependency make the pedestrian experience less pleasant, so basing yourself in an accessible neighbourhood makes a real difference. Cycling is helped by generally flat terrain in many areas, and bike infrastructure is expanding through the "Complete Streets" initiative, with dedicated lanes on some streets and projects including the "Slow Streets Bicycle Boulevard" and protected lanes on Wethersfield Avenue. Gaps remain in the network, though, so plan your route with care.

CT Transit Hartford runs the local bus network across the Greater Hartford area, with most stops served every 15 to 30 minutes; passes are sold online or in person at the Customer Service and Sales Outlet at State and Market Streets, next to the Old State House. Buses accept exact change or the Go CT card, available at the Information Center on Union Place or via an app. Service is limited after 9PM and on Sundays, and transfers at Asylum Street can add around 20 minutes and a second fare. CTfastrak, the state's bus rapid transit system, uses a bus-only roadway with dedicated lanes, off-board fare payment and level boarding along a former rail corridor, with direct service to New Britain, Bristol, Waterbury, Cheshire and Southington. For short hops around the centre, the Dash Shuttle is a free circulator running downtown every 15 minutes on weekdays and on weekends during major events, linking the CT Convention Center, the Riverfront, the Arts and Entertainment District, restaurants and downtown hotels. A transit app can give you real-time arrivals.

• By car: Hartford sits at the junction of Interstates 91 and 84 and Routes 2 and 6, making it easy to navigate. Street parking is free on the weekends, and downtown is the safest area to drive and park.
• By rail: Hartford Union Station, a few blocks east of downtown at 1 Union Place, is the hub for Amtrak routes including the Hartford Line, Northeast Regional, Vermonter and Valley Flyer, plus CTrail's Hartford Line. There is no metro or tram network; rail here is regional and intercity rather than local rapid transit.
• By intercity bus: Greyhound, Peter Pan and Go Buses serve the city, with Go Buses using the Morgan Street Bus Station.
• Taxis and ride-hailing: plentiful downtown, though prices rise during weekday rush hour and on UConn game days. At the airport, the taxi queue outside baggage claim is the fallback after the last bus, and you should insist on the meter.
• From the airport: Bradley International Airport sits in nearby Windsor Locks and is reachable by car along I-91. CT Transit's Bus 30, CTfastrak and the Bradley Flyer express bus from Union Station all connect it with downtown.

Where to stay

Hartford has plenty of large chain hotels, with many upscale options both downtown and in the suburbs. Staying downtown puts you within walking distance of the city's main sights and venues. The Hartford Marriott Downtown is attached to the Connecticut Convention Center and overlooks the Connecticut River and downtown; it has an indoor pool, a fitness center, a full-service spa, a restaurant and a bar. The DoubleTree by Hilton Hartford is also downtown, attached to the Hartford Civic Center / XL Center, and offers an indoor pool, a fitness center, a restaurant and an upscale bar. The Residence Inn Hartford Downtown occupies the Richardson Building, which dates to the late 1800s, two buildings from the Old State House and the Hartford Stage and a block from the XL Center, with a restaurant, two cafes and a fitness center. Other downtown choices include the Goodwin Hotel, The Capitol Hotel, Candlewood Suites Hartford Downtown, and, across the river, the Hampton Inn & Suites in East Hartford.

If you prefer to stay outside the center, the Best Western Hartford Hotel & Suites sits in the city's South Meadows neighborhood.

Food & drink

Hartford has long been associated with Italian food, and the old Little Italy in the South End still holds the restaurants and shops of that heritage even as most Italian-American families moved to the southern suburbs. The city's eating has since broadened: South End and West End are filled with Peruvian and Brazilian places, West End and parts of East Hartford have seen a surge in Vietnamese and Thai cuisine, the North End and parts of the West End are known for Jamaican and Caribbean cooking, and Park Street for Puerto Rican food. Locals and people from the surrounding area know Hartford for its giant grinders, and most of the grinder shops sit in the South End on or near Franklin Avenue. For dessert, the Franklin Avenue bakeries carry on the Italian tradition, and a Jamaican bakery is on Windsor Street.

Downtown you can find southern-style barbecue and Cajun cooking, the latter at a roadhouse that books blues, jazz and soul acts; a rotisserie joint for whole roasted chickens, tacos and salads; and a trendy Italian spot with pastas and grilled dishes. Vietnamese pho and Sichuan cooking are represented too, along with vegan and French options and a deli. For a splurge, there is New American fine dining on the 20th floor with city and river views, upscale steakhouses, and a Peruvian restobar. To drink, try a cozy Irish pub, a rowdy little place known for never charging a cover and for live bands on its rooftop patio, a historic tavern with a rustic atmosphere and live music, an upscale tequila bar that also serves Mexican food, or a laid-back bar with a wide selection of draft and bottled beers. Local microbreweries round out the options.

What to see and do

Start downtown, where the gold-domed Connecticut State Capitol sits atop Bushnell Park. The park itself is the first publicly funded park in America, laid out by the architect behind New York's Central Park, and it holds the Soldiers and Sailors Memorial Arch, the country's first permanent triumphal arch and first permanent war memorial, honoring Connecticut soldiers lost in the Civil War as well as enslaved people and their struggle. A short walk away, the Old State House is one of the oldest state houses in the country, and the Butler McCook House & Garden is the city's oldest home, with a restored garden and the oldest collection of art and antiques in town.

• Wadsworth Atheneum: America's first public art museum, with a large permanent collection.
• Mark Twain House & Museum and Harriet Beecher Stowe House & Library: the two authors' neighboring homes in the Asylum Hill area, the Twain house in high Victorian Gothic style.
• Connecticut Science Center: hands-on exhibits, a 3D digital theater and educational labs, good for children and adults alike.
• Elizabeth Park: formal gardens, green space, walking loops and a café on the national register of historic places.
• Connecticut Historical Society Museum & Library in the West End, and the Colt Factory, shaped like an Arabian palace and best viewed from East Hartford.

For entertainment, the Bushnell Center for the Performing Arts is the state's premier theater, home to the Hartford Symphony Orchestra and Connecticut Opera and a stop for touring Broadway shows and comics. Hartford Stage puts on its own productions and road shows, while the XL Center hosts hockey and basketball along with established touring acts. Big-name concerts come to the Xfinity Theatre amphitheater in the North Meadows, and the Webster Theater is a renovated art deco rock club. Real Art Ways covers contemporary art, concerts, readings and cinema, Cinestudio at Trinity College shows classic and art-house films, and the Art Cinema is the city's last operating movie house. Catch minor league baseball at Dunkin' Park, soccer at Dillon Stadium, or comedy and improv at Sea Tea Comedy Theater. In winter, head west to Ski Sundown for beginner and intermediate slopes.

When to go

Three days in Hartford

Day one: Start in Downtown Hartford, the city's central grid of offices, civic buildings and streets that anchor the Capitol Planning Region. Walk into Bushnell Park, the green space at the heart of the city, and use it as your orientation point before wandering the surrounding blocks. In the evening, stay close to Downtown for dinner rather than crossing the river.

Day two: Head west into the West End, a residential neighbourhood of tree-lined streets that gives you a quieter side of Hartford than Downtown. Loop back through the city and spend the afternoon in the North Meadows, the commercial and industrial stretch along the river. If you want a change of scene, the Knowledge Corridor links Hartford with Springfield in Massachusetts to the north.

Day three: Use the South End as your base for a slower final day, then look beyond Hartford County. Greater Hartford spreads into surrounding towns, and the region sits within easy reach of New Haven to the south and Waterbury and Danbury to the west via Interstates and Connecticut Routes. If you are flying out, Bradley International Airport (BDL) serves the region; drivers arriving from New York City often come via the Hutchinson River Parkway and Merritt Parkway, while those from Boston or Worcester approach from the east.