Chinatown

Introduction

San Francisco's Chinatown, established in 1848, was the first Chinatown in the United States. In the decades that followed, Chinese communities took root along the West Coast and, by 1875, in eastern cities such as New York City, Boston, Pittsburgh, and Philadelphia.

The Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882 barred Chinese immigration to the United States, but its repeal by the Magnuson Act of 1943 allowed Chinatowns to rise again. Understanding this history of establishment, exclusion, and revival will deepen your sense of what you see as you walk these neighborhoods.

Getting around

Chinatown is a walking neighbourhood, and the core streets — Mott St, Pell St, Canal St and Doyers St — are best experienced on foot, with Mulberry St linking the area to Little Italy. Wear comfortable shoes, expect the heaviest crowds on weekends and along Canal St, and head for quieter side streets such as Pell St and Doyers St. Markets and dim sum are best in the morning to midday, though the streets stay lively into the afternoon, and Lunar New Year is a peak-crowd period. Carry cash, since not all small stalls and shops accept cards, watch your belongings as in any tourist area, dress modestly and speak quietly if you visit a temple, and be aware that Canal St vendors sell counterfeit goods — the sale is illegal and the quality is often low.

For longer hops, the subway is the main way in and out, with two stations acting as the primary gateways: Canal St and Grand St. Several lines converge on Canal St, each at its own entrance along a different street — Canal St (Broadway) for the N, Q, R and W; Canal St (Centre St) for the J and Z; Canal St (Lafayette St) for the 6; and Grand St (Chrystie St) for the B and D. Which one you use depends on where you're coming from: a southbound B or D from 7th Ave/Columbus Circle, or a southbound R/W, reaches the neighbourhood, as does a Downtown N, Q, R or W from Midtown. From Brooklyn, the B/D from DeKalb Ave runs to Grand St, or you can walk across the Manhattan Bridge from DUMBO; a Manhattan-bound J or Z from Williamsburg goes to Canal St. From Queens, take the 7 to Grand Central and transfer to a southbound 6, or take the 7 to Times Square and transfer to the N/Q/R/W. From Harlem, a southbound 6 runs directly to Canal St, or the B/D from West Harlem reaches Grand St. Buses fill the gaps where subway coverage is thin, and rail and buses typically share one fare system, so a single ticket or pass usually covers both — check the local transit authority for transfer rules. Taxis and ride-hailing are best treated as a complement to transit rather than a way to explore Chinatown itself, where narrow, crowded streets make walking faster for short hops.

Three days in Chinatown

Day one: Start in San Francisco's Chinatown, the oldest Chinatown on the West Coast, and give yourself time to wander rather than rush. Learn how the neighborhood took shape, including the years of the Chinese Exclusion Act and the later Magnuson Act, before turning to the everyday life of the streets. Browse the markets and carry cash for small purchases, and if your visit falls around Lunar New Year, expect the streets to be at their liveliest.

Day two: Head east and compare with New York City's Chinatown, the largest of the Chinatowns in the United States. Work your way through the tangle of streets — Mott St, Pell St, Canal St and Doyers St — and step across into Little Italy on Mulberry St for the contrast. Wear comfortable shoes, since the blocks run together and the sidewalks are busy.

Day three: Stay downtown and explore the edges of the neighborhood, from Grand St down toward Broadway, Centre St, Lafayette St and Chrystie St. If you are coming from Brooklyn, the DeKalb Ave route and the walk over the Manhattan Bridge from DUMBO make an easy approach into lower Manhattan. Use the day for understanding how this Chinatown sits within the city rather than ticking off sights.