Bakersfield
Introduction
Bakersfield is a city in Kern County, California, and serves as the county seat. It sits near the southern end of the San Joaquin Valley, within the Central Valley region, and spreads across roughly 151 square miles.
Before you go
Bakersfield has a hot desert climate, so plan your visit around the heat: summers are sweltering, with some days dangerously hot and nights that stay warm, while the rest of the year is more forgiving. The city is conservative and religious compared to much of California, so dress and behave accordingly.
Before you go, know which areas to avoid. Property theft and drug activity have risen, and some parts of town are unsafe even in daylight — particularly Dr. Martin Luther King Drive (formerly Lakeview Ave, continuing as Cottonwood Rd), Union Ave, parts of East Bakersfield, and the areas around the Kern County fairgrounds and South High School, where gang violence is a problem. The suburb of Oildale, across the Kern River, has a reputation for racism and poverty, though attitudes toward minorities have improved over the years; drug use and related crime remain an issue there.
Getting there
Meadows Field (BFL) sits about 11 miles north of downtown along Highway 204 and Highway 99, reached from Exit #30 (Merle Haggard Drive); the passenger terminal is on the opposite side of the runways from the highway. Skywest flies as American Eagle to Phoenix and Dallas-Fort Worth, and as United Express to Denver and San Francisco. Rental cars are available at the airport, and taxis, Uber and Lyft wait outside the terminal, but there is no bus service to the airport. For more destinations and airlines, Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) is 120 miles south, with direct bus service to Bakersfield from Airport Valet Express and Chennai Express; Bob Hope Airport in Burbank and Fresno Yosemite International are also within reach by Greyhound and Flixbus. Private aircraft can use Meadows Field or Bakersfield Municipal Airport in South Bakersfield, along with general aviation fields at Delano, Kern Valley, Lost Hills, Minner Field in Shafter, Taft, Tehachapi and Wasco.
Amtrak serves a main terminal downtown at 601 Truxtun Avenue, the southern terminus of the Gold Runner route, which runs north through the Central Valley to Sacramento or the Bay Area; Amtrak Thruway buses connect Gold Runner passengers to southern California cities and to Las Vegas, Nevada. By bus, Greyhound and Flixbus stop behind the visitors center at Truxtun and T Street, with an additional stop at McKee Park & Ride on H Street in the southside, running along CA-99 and I-5 between Los Angeles and Oakland or Sacramento by way of Delano, Fresno, Modesto and Stockton. International Bus Lines, formerly Intercalifornias, operates from 18th Street between F and G Streets downtown, with buses from Tijuana to San Jose via San Ysidro, Los Angeles and San Joaquin Valley points, while Tufesa on California Avenue links Sacramento, Modesto, Fresno, Los Angeles, San Ysidro and Tijuana. Airport Valet Express, based on New Stine Road, runs primarily as a group charter with limited guided tours to Pismo Beach, Santa Barbara and Ventura Beach. By car, Bakersfield is at the junction of State Routes 99 and 58, roughly 25 miles north of The Grapevine where CA-99 meets Interstate 5, and about 115 miles north of Los Angeles.
Getting around
Bakersfield is a car-based city with poor mass transit, so driving your own car or renting one is probably wise. The city sits at the junction of California State Routes 99 and 58, and its proximity to mountain passes — primarily the Tejon Pass on Interstate 5 — has made it a regional transportation hub. If you are intrepid and determined to save money, the city bus can be used, but be aware that the city overall is car-dependent and many errands require longer walks or other transport.
- By bus: Golden Empire Transit (GET) has reasonable coverage of tourist sites, but service can be fairly limited in certain areas such as Rosedale. There are no transfers, so day passes are recommended. Kern Transit connects Bakersfield to other parts of Kern County, including Santa Clarita, Delano, Lake Isabella, Lamont, Lancaster, and Taft, with additional services onward to Boron, California City, and Kernville. Several intercity bus lines also stop in town, including Greyhound and Flixbus behind the visitors center at the Bakersfield Train Station, International Bus Lines downtown on 18th Street, and Tufesa on California Avenue.
- By train: Amtrak serves Bakersfield from a main terminal downtown, the Bakersfield railway station at 601 Truxtun Avenue. Bakersfield is the southern terminus of the Amtrak San Joaquins route, which travels north through the Central Valley to either Sacramento or the Bay Area, and the station is also served by Amtrak Thruway bus routes connecting to many Southern California cities as well as Las Vegas. There is no metro or tram network.
- By taxi and ride-hailing: Taxis are available, including Silver Taxi on Quincy Street, which operates 24 hours. At Meadows Field Airport, taxis, Uber, and Lyft are available outside the terminal.
- By bike: Biking is not a typical mode of transit, but it can be done. Most bike lanes are on arterial roads with multiple car lanes and high speed limits, and biking is not a common mode of transport among residents, so consider safety. It is practical for specific trips and trail exploration.
- On foot: The downtown core is very small and walkable, with shopping centers and parks. Some neighborhoods are walkable, notably Downtown and Oleander-Sunset, but sidewalk coverage is inconsistent and crosswalks infrequent, so choose accommodation in more accessible areas.
- From the airport: Meadows Field (BFL) lies north of downtown along Highway 204 and Highway 99, at Exit #30 (Merle Haggard Drive). Rental cars are available at the airport, and taxis, Uber, and Lyft wait outside the terminal. There is no bus service to the airport. For more flight options, Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) is the primary alternative, with Airport Valet Express and Chennai Express providing direct bus service between LAX and Bakersfield; Bob Hope Airport in Burbank and Fresno Yosemite International Airport are accessible by Greyhound and Flixbus.
Where to stay
Bakersfield's lodging is spread across the city rather than concentrated in a single district, so your choice depends largely on how you're arriving and what you plan to do. The Padre Hotel, an upscale boutique property on 18th Street, stands out for its five food and beverage venues and its convenient transit access — the Greyhound station is just one block away. Downtown also puts you near the Marriott at the Convention Center on Truxtun Avenue and the Best Western Plus Hill House, also on Truxtun. If you're driving, several options cluster along the CA-99 corridor: the Vagabond Inn Bakersfield North at Knudsen Drive near Olive Drive, and the Vagabond Inn Bakersfield South off CA-99 and Panama Lane. A number of chain properties sit in the Marriott Drive area, including the Courtyard Bakersfield and SpringHill Suites Bakersfield, while Homewood Suites by Hilton on Mill Rock Way and the Residence Inn on Chester Lane suit longer stays. Budget-minded travelers can consider the Motel 6 on Easton Drive.Food & drink
< p>Bakersfield has no shortage of chain restaurants in its shopping centers, but the local options are worth seeking out. Basque food is the city's signature, with what is likely the largest single cluster of Basque restaurants in California; try Benji's, The Pyrenees or Woolgrowers. Italian fans might enjoy Rosa's, Luigi's or Uricchio's, and you'll also find Thai restaurants that have opened in recent years alongside popular Japanese and Indian spots. For something quick and nostalgic, Woolworth Diner is one of the last original functioning lunch counters of the defunct Woolworth department store, serving burgers, hot dogs, milkshakes, floats, ice cream and fries. Other local standouts include Mama Roomba for Caribbean in Downtown, Flames & Skewers for Middle Eastern, and 24th Street Cafe, a favorite breakfast spot for hearty American food. Save room for Dewar's Candy Shop, a local ice cream parlor and candy shop known for its black and whites and Dewar's chews. < p>Bakersfield's bar and club scene is centered downtown around the intersection of 19th St and Eye St, while most microbreweries sit a bit further out. A Brewery Trail lets you check in at a few breweries for prizes. Among them, Lengthwise Brewing Company is a microbrewery serving reasonably priced beer and pub-style food, and Temblor Brewing Co offers happy hour on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons as well as all day Sunday and Monday.What to see and do
Start with the city's landmarks and museums. The Bakersfield Sign, a neon arch at Sillect Avenue and Buck Owens Boulevard, is a recognizable local landmark that has appeared in films and television shows set in the area, and it's viewable at any hour. The California Living Museum (CALM) sits in a park-like setting in the northeastern part of the city and houses rare or endangered animals that were injured and cannot return to the wild. The Kern County Museum spreads across a lush, shady site north of downtown, with dozens of historic exhibit buildings ranging from an 1800s log cabin to a 1936 gas station, plus jails, a one-room school, and Victorian-era homes; the Lori Brock Children's Discovery Center is aimed at younger visitors, and the museum hosts car shows, an annual antique show, and Clock Tower Holidays. For art, the Bakersfield Museum of Art offers visual arts exhibits and educational programming, while the Buena Vista Museum of Natural History focuses on geology, anthropology, and paleontology, building on a collection of Miocene fossils from the local Shark Tooth Hill. For live entertainment and events, the Dignity Health Arena, Theater and Convention Center hosts sporting events, concerts, circuses, and other shows throughout the year, and the downtown Fox Theater, built in Spanish Colonial and Art Deco styles and restored in the 1990s, schedules standup comedy and musical guests. CSUB Jazz events include club workshops and coffee shop appearances. Outdoors, Murray Family Farms is Kern County's major agricultural attraction, with fresh and you-pick produce, educational and group tours, a hay wagon, and picnic grounds, while the Bakersfield Speedway is the oldest motor racetrack in California, a clay oval that puts on a full ticket of races. Ethnic food and culture festivals — Scottish, Indian, Basque, and Greek among them — take place in spring and summer.When to go
Bakersfield has a hot desert climate, so the timing of your visit makes a big difference to what you can comfortably do outdoors. Summers are very hot and dry, with sweltering days and warm nights; on the hottest stretches, overnight lows stay high enough that there is little relief after dark. If you come in summer, plan your outdoor activity for the early morning or evening and expect intense heat during the middle of the day.
Winters are mild and offer a comfortable contrast to the extreme summer heat, making this the most pleasant time for outdoor sightseeing and for travel through the region.
Three days in Bakersfield
Day one: Arrive at Meadows Field (BFL) and take a rental car, Uber or Lyft into Bakersfield. If you fly into Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) instead, the Airport Valet Express can bring you up through the San Joaquin Valley. Settle in, then drive out along the Kern River, which runs through the city, and get your bearings on the grid of streets that includes Dr. Martin Luther King Drive, Lakeview Ave, Cottonwood Rd and Union Ave. In the evening, eat in East Bakersfield, where you can find Indian cooking such as Chennai Express.
Day two: Spend the morning in Oildale, the community north of the Kern River with its own distinct character, then cross back into Bakersfield and continue along the river. In the afternoon, drive out to the edge of Kern County, where the Central Valley opens into open country. Return to the city for dinner and an early night.
Day three: If you are flying out of Meadows Field, note that Skywest, American Eagle, United Express and other carriers connect BFL with Phoenix, Dallas, Fort Worth, Denver and San Francisco. Highway access and the Merle Haggard Drive exit make the run to the airport straightforward. If you are heading back to Los Angeles, Bob Hope Airport is another option, or arrange the Airport Valet Express again. Before you leave, take one last drive past South High School and through the neighbourhoods around Union Ave.