Montgomery

Introduction

Before you go

Montgomery has a deep and layered history: it briefly served as the capital of the Confederacy and was the site of Jefferson Davis' inauguration, and it was also a pivotal location during the civil rights movement, seeing the arrest of Rosa Parks, the ensuing bus boycott, and numerous non-violent protests led by Dr. Martin Luther King. Its central location in Alabama's Black Belt has long made it a processing hub for commodity crops such as cotton, peanuts, and soybeans, and its position along the Alabama River and extensive rail connections have kept it a regional distribution hub for a wide range of industries.

Before you go, plan around the climate. Summers are long, hot, and humid, with afternoon heat indices frequently at or above the actual air temperature, while winters are short and mild, springs and autumns warm. Rain is well distributed through the year, though February, March, and July are the wettest months and October is significantly the driest. Thunderstorms bring much of the rainfall and are common in summer but occur year-round; severe thunderstorms with large hail and damaging winds can occasionally occur, particularly in spring, and bring a risk of tornadoes. Tropical disturbances moving inland from the Gulf Coast can also bring very heavy rains. For emergencies, dial 911. Avoid the west and southwestern parts of the city, where most crime is concentrated, and keep your car doors locked when you are not around your vehicle; carjacking is not uncommon. The eastern portion of the city, specifically from Eastern Blvd onward, offers many safe and family-friendly shopping attractions and venues.

Getting there

Montgomery Airport (MGM) is a small airport served by American Eagle, which flies to Charlotte, Dallas, and Washington, and by Delta Connection, which flies to Atlanta. Because the airport is small, you may find it cheaper to fly into Atlanta, about two hours away by car, or Birmingham, roughly an hour and a half away, and drive the rest of the way.

• Montgomery Airport, 4445 Selma Hwy

By road, two major interstate highways serve the city: I-85 connects Montgomery with Atlanta, Georgia, while I-65 links it with Birmingham to the north and Mobile to the south. Greyhound and Megabus both stop at the Intermodal Transit Facility on Molton Street; Megabus offers service from Atlanta, Mobile, and New Orleans.

Getting around

Montgomery is a sprawling, car-oriented Southern city, and having your own vehicle remains the most convenient way to get around. If you are driving in, two major interstates serve the city: I-85 connects Montgomery with Atlanta, and I-65 links it with Birmingham to the north and Mobile to the south. Given the layout and the absence of any rail transit, arriving by car gives you the most flexibility once you are in town.

Without a vehicle, your main public-transport option is the Montgomery Area Transit System (MATS), which runs both the bus and trolley system. There is no metro, light rail, or tram network, and the trolley service is operated by MATS as part of its transit system rather than as a separate rail line. Because the network is bus-based, routes are oriented around getting residents to and from key parts of town rather than serving as a quick sightseeing loop, so check schedules in advance and allow extra time. Taxis and ride-hailing are worth arranging by phone or app for longer cross-town trips, and walking is best treated as a way to explore a specific area once you have arrived there by car, bus, or taxi rather than as a means of getting between distant parts of town. For travel into and out of the city, intercity buses also serve Montgomery, with Greyhound and Megabus both using the same address on Molton Street at the Intermodal Transit Facility; Megabus offers service from Atlanta, Mobile, and New Orleans.

Where to stay

Food & drink

Montgomery diners tend to keep things straightforward, and lunch is often built around the "meat and three plate" — a meat course with three sides of vegetables or potatoes, filling and reliable in both quantity and quality. There is also a strong pull toward familiar corporate chain restaurants; if a franchise exists, Montgomery probably has one. A few southern foodways are worth knowing before you order. Most restaurants serve "sweet" tea, sweetened with sugar and sometimes too sweet for newcomers, though you can ask for it unsweetened. Barbecue here means meat slow-cooked over a wood fire, and sauce comes in the full range — mustard type, tomato based, and Tex-Mex. Because the Hyundai automobile plant calls the city home, you will also find several fine Korean and Pan Asian restaurants with interesting menu items, and in some of the better restaurants you can expect a Cajun influence from lower Alabama.

For something quick and unfussy, downtown has a couple of long-standing spots: Scott St. Deli, a downtown landmark serving sandwiches and basic deli fare, and Chris' Hot Dogs, which serves hot dogs and the like. Mid-range options include Jim & Nicks Bar-B-Que, a chain barbecue restaurant, El Rey Burrito Lounge for Tex-Mex with a contemporary flair, and Dreamland BBQ, a noted barbecue eatery in town. For a finer meal, Martha's Place Buffet and Catering offers a buffet featuring southern cooking, La Jolla serves tapas and gourmet dining and is known locally for its wine selection, and Vintage Year is another option. When you want a drink, the Tavern & Porter Room is a bar with subdued lighting.

What to see and do

Montgomery's civil rights history is the thread that ties its most important sights together. Start downtown at the Civil Rights Memorial on Washington Avenue, then walk to Dexter Avenue King Memorial Baptist Church, where Martin Luther King, Jr. preached for six years. Nearby on Dexter Avenue stand the Alabama State Capitol and the First White House of the Confederacy, while a cluster of historic churches rewards a slower wander: First Baptist Church on South Perry Street, St. John's Episcopal Church on Madison Avenue, and Old Ship African Methodist Episcopal Zion Church, the city's oldest African American congregation. The Legacy Museum and the National Memorial for Peace and Justice together confront the history of racial injustice in the United States, and the Rosa Parks Museum and the Freedom Rides Museum each mark a decisive chapter in the struggle over segregation.

For a different side of the city, head to Old Alabama Town, a village of authentic 19th and early 20th century homes and buildings restored as a history museum, or to the Museum of Alabama and the Montgomery Museum of Fine Arts, set within the manicured grounds of Blount Cultural Park. Riverfront Park promenades along the Alabama River with sunset views, riverboat rides, and the old Union Station. Music and literary history have their own shrines at the Hank Williams Museum and the Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald Museum, and families can spend an afternoon at the Montgomery Zoo. In the evening, catch a show at the Alabama Shakespeare Festival, a planetarium program at the W. A. Gayle Planetarium, an independent film at the Capri Theatre, or minor league baseball with the Montgomery Biscuits.

When to go

Montgomery's climate rewards planning around the seasons. Winters are short and mild, with only a few days a year dropping below freezing — and hard freezes are extremely rare. Springs and autumns are warm and pleasant. Summers, by contrast, are long, hot and humid, with afternoon heat indices frequently at or above the threshold where prolonged time outdoors becomes uncomfortable. Rain falls throughout the year, so an umbrella is useful whenever you visit.

If you want the driest conditions, aim for October, which is significantly the driest month. Be aware that the wettest stretches fall in February, March and July. Thunderstorms occur year-round and are common in summer, while spring can occasionally bring severe thunderstorms with large hail, damaging winds and a risk of tornadoes. Tropical disturbances can sometimes deliver very heavy rains.

Three days in Montgomery

Day one: Start in Montgomery, the seat of Montgomery County, and get your bearings in a city whose name honours Continental Army Major General Richard Montgomery. The Alabama River runs through the Gulf Coastal Plain here, and the weather shapes your day: summers are warm and humid, rain is common in February and March, July and October bring heat, and thunderstorms and tropical systems can sweep in from the Gulf Coast. For that reason, avoid scheduling everything outdoors. If you fly in, Eastern Blvd leads toward Montgomery Airport, also known as MGM, which is served by American Eagle from Charlotte, Dallas and Washington, and by Delta Connection from Atlanta.

• Begin with the river and the plain that define the setting.
• Keep a rain plan ready in February and March.
• Watch for thunderstorms and tropical weather moving up from the Gulf Coast.

Day two: Turn to the history that made Montgomery what it is. The Confederacy and its president, Jefferson Davis, are part of the story told here, as are Rosa Parks and Dr. Martin Luther King. Because the city sits within the Black Belt, that history is inseparable from the wider region around it. Before you move on, take time to understand how these threads connect rather than treating them as separate stops.

• Look for the Civil War and civil rights narratives side by side.
• Consider how the Black Belt shaped the city and its surroundings.

Day three: Use the day to see how Montgomery connects to the rest of Alabama. Because Birmingham and Selma Hwy lie within reach, you can plan a route that links the city to nearby places rather than staying put. By the end of three days you will have a feel for the river, the plain, the weather and the history that meet here.

• Plan a route toward Birmingham or along Selma Hwy.
• Leave time for the river and the Gulf Coastal Plain landscape.