Mardin

Introduction

You will find yourself in a city defined by its striking geography and historical depth. Situated on a rocky hill overlooking the Tigris River, Mardin serves as the seat of the Artuklu District and offers a landscape shaped by both its strategic position and its unique architectural heritage.

As you explore the old city, you can experience the distinct Artuqid architecture that characterizes the area. The blend of historical design and rugged terrain creates a distinctive atmosphere within this historic district.

Before you go

Prepare for a journey into a land where history is layered deep within the architecture. You will find yourself in the heart of the homeland of the Assyrians, whose ancient roots trace back to the Akkadian Empire. While the local population has changed over centuries, you can still encounter a tapestry of regional cultures including Turks, Kurds, and Arabs. The city's Islamic heritage, featuring mosques and madrasahs, dates back to its time as the capital of the Turkic Artuqid dynasty. Because the area was closed to tourism for many years due to regional conflict, you can expect a sense of discovery rather than large crowds of tourists.

Navigating the city offers a unique experience of local geography:

• The historic quarter, Eski Mardin, features a main street that loops through the center; while the alleys may look like a labyrinth, they lead back to the main drag within minutes.
• In the modern suburb of Yenişehir, you will encounter Vali Ozan Bulvarı, which climbs toward the old city with hairpin turns.
• You can travel with peace of mind as the safety situation has improved significantly and there is a prominent police presence in the old city.

Getting there

You can reach Mardin by air via daily flights from Istanbul and Ankara, followed by a shuttle bus from the airport into the city. If you prefer traveling by road, well-paved highways connect the region, though a stretch east of Urfa is known for its potholes. You may choose to hitchhike from Urfa, where the local people are known for their hospitality, or take a bus from either Urfa or Diyarbakır. While a direct bus exists between Mardin and Van, many travelers prefer connecting through Diyarbakır for a more reliable journey.

Once you arrive at the bus terminal, you can reach the old town by taking a bus toward the new city and transferring to a yellow dolmuş heading toward Eski Mardin. If you are traveling by car, the hilltop old city will appear on the horizon before the road leads you toward Yenişehir. While a train station exists just south of the city, it is no longer in use; the nearest active passenger rail connection is located in Batman.

Getting around

You can navigate between Yenişehir and Eski Mardin using local minibuses, which provide a convenient connection between the new and old sections of the city. If you prefer to travel on foot, the steep road connecting these two areas is walkable, though it becomes a demanding trek during the peak of summer heat. For those traveling from the State Hospital area, small yellow buses run frequently toward the Old City and accept both cash and contactless card payments.

Once you reach the old city, you can explore its compact layout on foot, as the distance between either end of the main street takes about half an hour to traverse. You will find that no vehicles enter the twisty and staired side alleys; in these narrow passages, even waste collection is performed with the help of donkeys.

Where to stay

You should book your accommodations well in advance during the summer months, particularly on weekends, as Mardin sees a steady increase in visitors while lodging options remain limited. If you are visiting the sights of Midyat and seeking more affordable stays, consider booking through platforms like Airbnb or exploring the nearby area of Dargeçit.

Depending on your preference for atmosphere, you can choose from various styles of accommodation:

• Stay in a central hotel on the main drag to enjoy modern comforts like air conditioning and a restaurant.
• Choose a boutique hotel featuring a terrace where you can enjoy a halal breakfast while looking out at mountain views.
• Experience a stone-like interior that evokes the feeling of a medieval fortress, complete with communal breakfasts and scenic vistas.
• Opt for a stay in the Yenişehir neighborhood if you prefer modern amenities like LCD TVs and parking.
• Select a house in the Şar Mahallesi area to enjoy beautiful views from a terrace.

Food & drink

Savor the local flavors of Mardin by exploring traditional dining options that highlight regional specialties. You can experience authentic, traditional cuisine in an atmosphere that reflects the heritage of the area, or visit a nearby establishment specifically known for serving falafel. For those seeking local cuisine, other nearby eateries offer a taste of the region's culinary traditions.

Refresh your palate with a glass of Süryani şarabı, the local red wine available in select shops and restaurants. If you prefer tea, visit an open-air garden situated on the main street near a mosque. You can enjoy a cup of tea shaded by trees while taking in views of the Mesopotamian plains below. When staying hydrated, stick to bottled water as the local tap water is too chalky to be palatable.

What to see and do

Explore the historic architecture of the old city, where you can wander through narrow alleys to experience the local atmosphere. From these vantage points, you can gaze out over the Mesopotamian plains, which appear to stretch endlessly toward the horizon. Visit the Grand Mosque to capture views of its minaret and dome against the distant landscape, or visit the Latifiye Camii for more architectural detail. For a deeper look into the region's heritage, explore the Sakıp Sabancı Mardin Kent Müzesi or the Zinciriye Medresesi, which features intricate wall and ceiling decorations reminiscent of Seljuq art. You can also find sunset views at the Kasımiye Madrasah.

Travel beyond the city center to discover significant religious sites in the surrounding areas:

• The Mor (Saint) Gabriel Monastery, a prominent work of the Orthodox Syriac Community located southeast of Midyat.
• The Virgin Mary Church and the ancient Hah Ruins in Anıtlı village, which house unique structures dating back centuries.
• The Church of the Forties, a 10th-century Syriac Orthodox church tucked away in a side alley.

Three days in Mardin

Day one, you can begin your journey by navigating the historic streets of the Old City. You will find yourself immersed in the atmosphere of the Artuklu District, where the architectural heritage reflects a blend of influences from various cultures that have shaped this region.

Day two, explore the surroundings beyond the city center to experience the local landscape. You can travel toward nearby areas such as Midyat or Dargeçit to see how the geography changes as you move further from the heart of Mardin.

Day three, spend your final day exploring the unique character of the Yenişehir area. You can take in the sights and sounds of the local environment before concluding your stay in this historic location.