Ordu
Introduction
Ordu, also known as Altınordu, is a port city on the Black Sea coast of Turkey and the capital of Ordu Province. The city makes up the urban part of the Altınordu district.
Before you go
Ordu was known in ancient times as Kotyora, a name pointing to pottery manufacture, and it remained a small port of limited strategic value in an agricultural region, passing between empires until the Ottomans took it in 1461. The name you see today comes from the army base they built about 10 km inland — "Ordu" means army base, and in 1869 it became the name of the whole city. Until the massacres and deportations of the early 20th century, half the population was Greek or Armenian, a history worth keeping in mind as you walk the streets. In 2021 the central district was renamed Altınordu, though as the source notes, no-one paid much heed — so don't be surprised to see both names in use.Getting there
Ordu sits on the coastal highway D010, roughly midway between Samsun to the west and Trabzon to the east, and most visitors arrive along this road. Ordu-Giresun Airport (OGU) receives flights every couple of hours from Istanbul, plus a daily service from Ankara and Izmir; it sits 18 km east of the city on reclaimed land jutting into the Black Sea. A Havas shuttle bus runs downtown, and you can also flag down a dolmuş on the nearby highway. Samsun-Çarşamba Airport, 132 km west, offers a wider choice of domestic flights. Long-distance buses from Istanbul run every couple of hours and take around 13 hours via Gebze and Samsun, while those from Ankara take about 9 hours. Most continue east along the coast to Trabzon, and one per day carries on to Rize and Batumi in Georgia. Metro Turizm and Flixbus serve the route. Ordu Bus Terminal lies on the southern edge of town, 3 km from the centre, with dolmuşes and taxis covering the final stretch downtown.Getting around
Ordu's centre is compact and walkable, with cafes, restaurants and shops close to one another, but the terrain matters: some neighbourhoods climb steeply, so a route that looks short on a map can mean a stiff climb. Flat coastal paths are the most comfortable places to stroll, and they are also where cycling makes the most sense, since hilly ground and patchy cycling infrastructure keep bikes to short, recreational rides rather than everyday transport. There is no metro, tram or passenger rail network, so you get around by road, on foot, or by cable car.
Buses, minibuses and dolmuşes are the main public transport, and dolmuşes ply all the main streets for quick trips within the centre. Buses run mainly in daylight and require an Ordum Kart, the local transit card, rather than cash on board. Taxis also work the main streets and meet arrivals at the bus terminal, but they cost significantly more than buses or dolmuşes, and there is no ride-hailing to fall back on. Coverage thins outside central Ordu, so allow extra time for cross-city or coastal journeys. For Boztepe, the hill overlooking town from the west, the Ordu Boztepe Gondola runs frequently and climbs from the coastline to the hilltop in minutes, serving as both sightseeing and practical transport.
Where to stay
For a chain option in the centre, the Ramada Plaza on Zübeyde Hanım Cd is clean and efficient, though you should not count on the air conditioning. The Anemon Ordu Otel on Atatürk Blv is a pleasant, friendly place by the harbour. Up on the hill beside the cable car top station, the Radisson Blu draws great reviews for its setting. If you would rather stay near the water, the beach strip northwest of the centre has plenty of inexpensive hotels, but be prepared for late-night noise from the cafes. Kubaliç Hotel sits on the main highway a short distance west of the airport. Two places are best avoided: the Karlibel Atlihan Hotel on Karabekýr Cd has seen better days and smells of tobacco.Food & drink
In Ordu, eating out is a casual, spread-out affair rather than a destination in itself. You'll find restaurants and cafes strung along the main road, beginning around the Grand Mosque and continuing northwest along the beach strip as far as the harbour. This is where you'll settle in for a meal or a coffee, with the sea never far from view. When it comes to drinking, many of the city's cafes serve alcohol, so you can pair a relaxed evening out with a drink without needing to seek out a dedicated bar.What to see and do
In the old town, traditional houses—some extremely elaborate—cascade from the hillside around the church down to the coast. The Grand Mosque (Ulu Cami) was built in traditional style and is only open at prayer times, while the tiny Fatih Mosque on 367th Sk is richly tiled within. The 19th-century Paşaoğlu Mansion is now an ethnography museum with rooms in late Ottoman style, with an archaeology museum adjacent, and the Hazelnut Museum sits just north. The Rüsumat 4 is a replica of a small cargo ship with a small historical display within, and the Taşbaşı Cultural Centre occupies a former Greek Orthodox Church on a terrace looking over the sea. For beaches, there's a short sandy stretch west of Rüsumat 4, then a longer strip at the east edge of town. The Ordu cablecar starts from Atatürk Park on the seafront and rides up to Boztepe, a wooded hill with walking trails. Ordu has a dozen traditional Turkish bathhouses, the most central being Saray Hamam near the sports centre. Football fans can watch Orduspor and 52 Orduspor, now in the amateur leagues, at Yeni Stad, a multi-sports facility at the east edge of town; the old 19 Eylül Stadium is derelict.When to go
Ordu has a humid subtropical climate, so rain is part of the picture whatever time of year you visit. Summers are warm with plentiful precipitation, though the heaviest rain falls in autumn and winter. The Black Sea stays cool year-round, so swimming here is bracing rather than balmy. Autumn brings the most rain, with frequent wet days, and the sea sits at the lower end of its cool range.
Winters are cool and wet, with precipitation matching the autumn peak. Snow is occasional between December and March, typically falling for a week or two and sometimes heavily once it starts. Spring marks a transition into the warm summer, still with plenty of rain but past the autumn and winter peak, while the sea remains cool.
Three days in Ordu
Day one: Base yourself in Altınordu, the central district of Ordu, and get your bearings along the Black Sea coast. Ride the Ordu Boztepe Gondola up to Boztepe for a wide view over the city and the water, then walk back down through the streets at your own pace. In the evening, eat near the centre and sort out an Ordum Kart, which covers local buses and makes getting around straightforward.
Day two: Use the day to explore Ordu Province beyond the centre. Buses and taxis are both options, and coverage is good enough to reach the outlying districts without much trouble. If you would rather move on, Giresun Airport (OGU) is the regional gateway, with connections to Istanbul, Ankara and Izmir, and Havas services link the airport with the city. Samsun, Trabzon, Rize and Batumi in Georgia lie along the same coast if you want to extend the trip.
Day three: Take a slower morning in Altınordu before deciding how to leave. The Ordu Bus Terminal handles long-distance coaches, with operators such as Metro Turizm and Flixbus running routes toward Samsun, Trabzon and onward to Istanbul via Gebze. If you prefer to stay put, spend the remaining hours on the coast and keep the sea in view. For a comfortable base in the centre, the Ramada Plaza is an option.