Isparta
Introduction
Isparta sits in western Turkey at an elevation of over a thousand metres, a position that shapes both its climate and its character. It is known as the "City of Roses" and the "City where Sun Resides", and it serves as the seat of both Isparta Province and Isparta District. Road connections make it easy to reach: Antalya lies to the south, Eskişehir far to the north, and other parts of the country are linked by highway.
The city has a mostly conservative fabric, which Süleyman Demirel University has increasingly brought into contact with young people from a wide range of backgrounds. Football is part of local life too: Isparta 32 Spor, founded in 1976, wears green and pink and plays its home matches at Isparta Atatürk City Stadium.
Before you go
Isparta sits at a high altitude, so winters here are chilly; the same climate, combined with volcanic soil, is what suits the roses the city is known for. The rose trade arrived with refugees who came from Bulgaria in the late 19th century, bringing both rose cultivars and the secret of preparing Attar of Rose perfume. That industry still defines the place: the oil remains the basis for rose-scented perfumes even in an age of synthetics, and rose water is a valuable byproduct of its extraction. Petals are picked at dawn from May to June, before the sun's warmth opens the buds and releases the oil.
Plan around the fact that Isparta is a modern town rather than an old one. An earthquake in 1914 badly damaged the city; a few mosques were repaired, but almost everything else was rebuilt, so there is no old quarter to wander. If you want to bring something home, note that the pure oil is irritant and is sold in bulk to perfume manufacturers rather than to tourists locally, so look instead for the many rose water products on offer. Visitor information is available online from the Turkish Tourism Ministry.
Getting there
To fly in, Isparta Süleyman Demirel Airport (ISE) sits 31 km northwest of town, served by Turkish Airlines flights from Istanbul several days a week that take about 75 minutes, plus the occasional seasonal flight from Tehran. Facilities are scanty because of the low footfall, and there is no public transport to the city, so arrange a ride in advance. Antalya Airport (AYT), 125 km south, has a much wider range of flights from Europe and within Turkey. Buses from Istanbul run six times a day, taking around 10 hours via Gebze, Izmit, Kütahya and Afyon, and continue on to Antalya. From Ankara the journey is about 6 hours via Afyon, with some services continuing to Izmir. Pamukkale, Metro Turizm and Flixbus are the main operators, arriving at Isparta Otobüs Terminali, 5 km north of downtown with no public transport link, so you'll need a taxi. By rail, the Göller Ekspresi (Lakes Express) runs once daytime and once overnight from Izmir, taking 10 hours via Izmir Airport, Selcuk (for Ephesus and Kuşadası), Aydın, Nazilli and Denizli (for Pamukkale); these trains have seating only, no sleeper berths. A connecting train shuttles between Isparta and Burdur, and Isparta railway station is central, at the T-junction of Doğan Kımıllı Cd and Istasyon Cd.Getting around
For the town itself, walking is the most practical way to get around: the sights are all within walking distance of one another, so a centrally based visitor can reach the main attractions without public transport. Keep in mind that Isparta sits at an elevation of over a thousand metres, and winters are chilly, rainy and often snowy, so pack accordingly in the colder months. Anything outside the centre is a different matter — you need your own wheels for outlying sights, and taxis are the practical fallback for places that are not walkable.
- On foot: the simplest option for the town centre, where the sights cluster within walking distance.
- Rail: the centrally located station sits at the T-junction of Doğan Kımıllı Cd and Istasyon Cd. The Göller Ekspresi (Lakes Express) runs from Izmir once during the day and once overnight, taking around ten hours and calling at Izmir Airport, Selcuk (for Ephesus and Kuşadası), Aydın, Nazilli and Denizli (for Pamukkale); the trains have seating only, with no sleeper berths. A connecting train shuttles between Isparta and Burdur.
- Coaches: long-distance buses link Isparta with Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir and Antalya, operated mainly by Pamukkale, Metro Turizm and Flixbus. The inter-city bus station, Isparta Otobüs Terminali, lies about five kilometres north of downtown and has no public transport link, so you need a taxi to get into the city.
- Airport: Isparta Süleyman Demirel Airport (ISE) is about thirty-one kilometres northwest of town, with Turkish Airlines flights from Istanbul several days a week and occasional seasonal service from Tehran; facilities are limited and there is no public transport into the city, so arrange a ride in advance or take a taxi. Many visitors instead fly into Antalya Airport (AYT), roughly 125 kilometres south, and arrange onward ground transport from there.
Within the city itself, plan on walking or taking a taxi for short trips, and expect to rely on a taxi or a pre-arranged ride for both the airport and the inter-city bus station.
Where to stay
Isparta's accommodation is concentrated along Süleyman Demirel Caddesi, where you'll find a couple of central options within easy reach of the city's amenities. Both the Ramada by Wyndham and Barida Hotels offer clean, spacious rooms, though you should be prepared for weak air conditioning and some noise; light sleepers may want to request a quieter room. If you're arriving by car, the Hilton Garden Inn on Atatürk Bulvarı sits at the junction of the D685 and D330 on the edge of town, making it a practical base for motorists continuing their journey. The hotel itself is boxy, and the basement car park is dingy, but it's a convenient choice if you value easy road access over a central location.Food & drink
Most of Isparta's eating places cluster north of the centre, on the streets around Barida Hotels. The old bus station once stood here, so it is uncertain how many of these restaurants will survive now that their clientele has moved on. A smaller group of eateries sits southwest of the railway station, at the foot of Istasyon Cd.
For drinking, head to the intersection of Atatürk Cd and Istasyon Cd, where you'll find Barcelona, Huni Cafe Bar and Beygir Pub.
What to see and do
In the city itself, the House of Said Nursî is a shrine-cum-museum devoted to the Kurdish Sunni theologian who spent his later years in Isparta. Kutlubey Mosque, also called the Grand Mosque, is the oldest in the city, and Firdevs-Bey Mosque stands a short walk to its north. The Ethnography and Carpet Museum holds a large display of kilims and traditional Turkish carpets on an upper floor with city views. Note that the Isparta Museum near the railway station has long been closed, and the Cankaya Museum marked on some maps is not a real attraction. Further out, the substantial ruins of the Roman and Byzantine city of Sagalassos lie south of Isparta along a hairpin mountain road. To the east, Mount Davraz is a mountain resort with seasonal skiing, and the small town of Eğirdir sits near the south end of its freshwater lake, its oldest quarter on a peninsula with the ruins of a Byzantine castle. For something more local, traditional Turkish baths are found in a dozen locations around the city, and you can take in a football match at Atatürk Stadium.When to go
Isparta has a Mediterranean-to-continental climate, with the lakes around the city moderating conditions in every season. Winters are chilly, rainy and often snowy, and this is the wettest part of the year, so rain and snow are likely to shape your travel plans. The surrounding lakes take some of the edge off the cold, but you should still expect damp, grey days and snow on the ground.
Summers are hot and dry, with precipitation dropping off notably, so you can expect strong heat and little rain during a visit. If you prefer to avoid both the wettest and the hottest extremes, plan around the shoulder seasons, when the lakes' moderating influence is at its most pleasant.
Three days in Isparta
Day one: Arrive in Isparta, a city in Turkey known as the City of Roses where the Sun Resides. If you come by air, Isparta Süleyman Demirel Airport (ISE) receives Turkish Airlines flights from Istanbul and Tehran, while Antalya Airport (AYT) offers another gateway from Europe, with buses and road connections from Antalya and Gebze. Settle into the Isparta District and take an easy first walk through the city centre before an evening meal.
Day two: Explore Isparta Province more widely. Visit Süleyman Demirel University, and if football interests you, catch a match at Isparta Atatürk City Stadium involving Spor. In May and June the rose harvest is at its peak, so plan your visit around the Attar rose and its petals, the crop that gives the city its character.
Day three: Use the day to plan onward travel. The Turkish Tourism Ministry lists facilities around the city, and from Isparta you can continue by road toward Antalya or Eskişehir, or fly out from ISE. If you have time before departure, return to the rose fields or the university area for a last look at the city.