Berbera
Introduction
Berbera is the capital of Somaliland's Sahil region and the country's main seaport, sitting on the coast roughly 160 km from Hargeisa, the national capital. It is a place with a long maritime past: the city served as a major port for the Ifat, Adal and Isaaq sultanates between the 13th and 19th centuries, and it was the former capital of the British Somaliland protectorate before Hargeisa took on that role.
Before you go
Berbera is a port city on the coast of Somaliland, facing the Gulf of Aden. Its position on the gulf makes it the economic centre of Somaliland and the focus of most of the country's trade, and it also serves Ethiopia's trading needs. Come expecting a working port rather than a set of sights: the city has few attractions, and the main reason to visit is to absorb the culture and lifestyle. Much of Berbera today is crumbling buildings and mud-thatch houses.
Getting there
Most travellers reach Berbera overland from Hargeisa, a journey of about 150 km usually made by minibus and 4WD. You will need an armed security officer to escort you between the two cities, and this has to be organised in Hargeisa before you set out.
Some travellers manage the trip independently by arranging a letter of permission from the Police Commissioner in Hargeisa. If you leave Berbera by road, you will again need an armed security guard.
Getting around
Getting around Berbera is straightforward in principle but thin on the ground in practice. There is no rail, metro or tram network, and public transport is limited to taxis and whatever minibuses you can find. Shared minibuses and taxis connect the town, the port and the beach, which makes them useful for short hops within and around the city, but they suit short city journeys rather than a dependable way to get around on a fixed plan. Walking is feasible within the town itself, and the old town is described as excellent for walking; the main constraint is the coastal heat, so early morning and evening are the best times to be on foot. Walking is advised during daylight only, and night walking is not recommended.
- Taxis are one of the main ways to get around. There are no meters, so negotiate the fare before entering the vehicle.
- Arrange transport through your hotel or by WhatsApp rather than hailing random taxis, and keep your hotel and embassy numbers saved, as mobile coverage is limited outside the main cities.
- Self-drive rental is essentially unavailable. Hire a vehicle with a driver instead, which is the most comfortable option for reaching Laas Geel and the highlands; a 4WD is essential outside the cities. Arrange fuel and cash before longer trips.
- If you want to get out on the water, there is a Gulf of Aden cruise on a miniature ferry.
- Most people reach Berbera overland from Hargeisa by minibus or shared 4WD, which depart when full; the road is sealed and the journey takes a few hours. An armed security officer is required to escort you between the two cities, and this must be organised in Hargeisa, as must a police permission letter if you travel independently. Leaving Berbera by road requires an armed security guard again.
- For airport transfers into town, arrange the transfer in advance through your hotel or a trusted contact rather than relying on finding a vehicle on arrival.
Where to stay
< p>Berbera's accommodation is limited, with options concentrated either near the centre or out at the beach. In the centre, Al Madiina offers rooms that vary in quality according to price, with the more expensive ones coming with air-conditioning — worth considering given how hot and humid the coastal climate can be.If you would rather stay by the sea, the Maan-Soor Hotel sits at Baathela Beach, a few kilometres from the city centre. It consists of cottages near the beach, though not directly facing it.
Food & drink
For an evening meal, head to the dinner beach hotel of Xeeb Soor, where you can eat with the sea waves beside you. This is the one eating option the source names, so plan your dining around it rather than expecting a spread of choices across the city. The source lists no bars, cafés or other drinking spots, so there is nothing further to recommend on where to drink.What to see and do
Berbera's coastline is the main draw. Baathela Beach, a pristine stretch of sand roughly 4km from the centre of town, is the place to swim, and the waters of the Red Sea make for good snorkelling. Batalaale beach is another very nice spot for a swim.
Inland, the central city holds historic buildings left by the different empires that passed through. You can also visit the NASA Runway, a huge airstrip built in the 1980s as an emergency landing site for space shuttles.
When to go
Berbera has a hot arid climate, so plan around heat rather than seasons. The long summer is sweltering, with highs staying very hot for nearly four months and nights that barely cool down. Because humidity is high all year, apparent temperatures reach extreme levels, and even after dark outdoor activity is uncomfortable. If you travel in summer, expect to move slowly and seek shade and breeze during the middle of the day.
- Summer: A long, sweltering stretch with very hot days and nights that stay warm, so the heat hardly lets up. High humidity pushes apparent temperatures to extreme levels, making outdoor activity uncomfortable even after dark.
- Winter: The coolest months are still hot, with warm days and mild nights rather than any real cold. Rain is minimal and sunshine is abundant, making this the more comfortable time to be outside.
Rain is scarce at any time of year, so you rarely need to plan around wet weather. Instead, weigh how much heat you can handle: winter offers warm days and mild nights with plenty of sun, while summer brings relentless heat and humidity that shape every part of your day.
Three days in Berbera
Day one: Start in Berbera itself, in the Sahil region of Somaliland, and get your bearings on foot. The town looks out over the Gulf of Aden, and its history runs through It, Ifat, Adal, Isaaq and British Somaliland before you reach the present day. Walk the streets, take in the old port atmosphere, and eat where the town eats: Al Madiina, Maan, Soor Hotel and Xeeb Soor all appear in the source as places to try. If you want a beach, Baathela Beach is the one named here.
Day two: Arrange a self-hire or shared vehicle and leave Berbera for Laas Geel, the rock art site that is the standout excursion from town. Come back via the coast and spend the late afternoon at Baathela Beach or around Xeeb Soor. Much of the day is about the drive and the landscape, so build in time rather than rushing. If you need to sort transport, WhatsApp and local contacts are the practical route; the Police Commissioner is also mentioned in the source in connection with arrangements, so ask locally about what is needed.
Day three: Use the day for the town's everyday life rather than a long trip. Return to the places you liked - Al Madiina, Maan, Soor Hotel or Xeeb Soor - and walk the waterfront. Some travellers use Berbera as a base before or after Hargeisa, so if you are heading that way, sort your shared transport in advance. Getting there and getting around are both covered by shared vehicles, walking and taxis; most of what you need can be arranged locally, and leaving Berbera is easiest when you have planned the next leg before the day begins.