Gisenyi

Introduction

Gisenyi, historically rendered as Kisenyi, sits in the Rubavu district of Rwanda's Western Province. It is the country's second largest city.

Before you go

Gisenyi sits on the north shore of Lake Kivu, right on the border with the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Across that border lies Goma, and the two are coterminous — the built-up area runs continuously from one country into the other. Plan your trip with that proximity in mind: this is a border town as much as a lakeside one.

Getting there

Buses connect Gisenyi with Kigali twice an hour, a journey of about three hours. There is also at least one daily bus between Kibuye and Gisenyi. For longer-distance travel, Kampala Coach runs a service to Kampala in Uganda, which takes around 14 hours.

By water, a ferry leaves Gisenyi for Cyangugu via Kibuye on Wednesdays and Sundays at 7am. The ferry has been operating since March 2014.

Getting around

Gisenyi is a small town, and walking is the most straightforward way to get around it. The main roads are paved, with sidewalks nearing completion on most of them, so strolling between the lakefront, the town centre, hotels and beaches is realistic rather than a chore. Bear in mind that the centre sits by foothills at the northeast corner of the lake, and low-density expansion is pushing into the hills; if your destination is up there, expect some climbing and consider a motorbike taxi instead.

Motorbike taxis are the main alternative to walking, and there are hundreds of them around town, so you should not struggle to find one. They are the go-to option for short hops, for reaching the hilly outskirts, or simply when you would rather not walk. There is no rail, metro or tram network, so longer journeys go by road or across the lake:

• Buses — run between Kigali and Gisenyi roughly twice an hour, taking about three hours; there is also at least one daily bus between Kibuye and Gisenyi. Kampala Coach operates a service to Kampala in Uganda, a journey of about 14 hours. The old bus station was built over by a multistorey shopping mall, so ask locally where buses currently pick up and drop off.
• Ferries — a ferry links Gisenyi with Cyangugu via Kibuye, departing every Wednesday and Sunday at 7am. It is a useful and scenic way to move along the lake rather than doubling back by road.
• Crossing to Goma — two border crossings, the "Petite Barrière" and the "Grand Barrière". Despite the names, the Petite Barrière is physically larger and carries much higher traffic volumes, while the Grande Barrière is paved on both sides, handles more heavy truck traffic, and is the diplomatic border. The road to the Petite Barrière is paved on the Rwandan side but not on the Congolese side.

If you are arriving from the airport, the route supported by the available information is by road via Kigali, continuing by bus; confirm current schedules and pickup points locally before you travel.

Where to stay

Gisenyi's sleeping options are mostly simple, locally run places rather than large hotels, and several are attached to churches. The cheapest beds in town are at the Centre d'Accueil de l'Église Presbytérienne on Ave du Marché, a quiet and clean church-run guesthouse with dorm beds and rooms; its local restaurant opens on workdays and serves breakfast and a buffet dinner. The Methodist Church Centre d'Accueil, north of the centre near the bus station, offers dorm beds and single or double rooms with shared hot-water bathrooms.

• Centre d'Accueil de l'Église Presbytérienne, Ave du Marché — quiet, clean, church-run; dorm beds and rooms; on-site restaurant on workdays.
• Methodist Church Centre d'Accueil — north of the centre near the bus station; dorm beds and single/double rooms; shared hot-water bathrooms.
• City Lodge, Rue de Ruhengeric — rooms with shared bathroom.
• Auberde de Gisenyi, Ave de Ummuganda — close to the market; single and double rooms with private bathroom.
• Africano Guest House — near the mosque; double rooms with private bathroom.

Food & drink

Gisenyi's eating options lean towards relaxed, service-flexible places where you can sit down, take food away, or have it brought to you. Several spots along the lakeside strip offer outdoor seating and kerbside pickup alongside dine-in service, making them easy to fit around a day on the water. Wazi Wine Garage is one such place, with outdoor seating and takeaway among its options, while Iturize Restaurant adds kerbside and no-contact delivery to the usual dine-in, takeaway and delivery mix. For something more atmospheric, Romantic Restaurant and New Tam-Tam Bikini are both worth a look, and El classico beach chez west sits right on the beach. If you need something at any hour, Tip Top stays open around the clock.

For drinks, La Ruta Bar Gisenyi Rubavu keeps the same 24-hour schedule and offers delivery, takeaway and dine-in, so it works whether you want a quick drink or a long evening. SAWASAWA Bar and restaurant is another option that combines drinking with a meal.

What to see and do

Gisenyi sits on the northern shore of Lake Kivu, and the water is the centre of things: the town has a public beach and the biggest sandy beaches in the area, with a resort on the lakeshore. You can swim, or take to the lake for water sports, kayaking and boat trips. The northern shore, shared with Goma, is a flat plain marked by lava formations from eruptions of nearby Nyiragongo Volcano.

Away from the water, you can visit the Bralirwa brewery in town, or head about 5 km out to the Pfunda Tea Factory. Organised tours cover gorilla trekking, wildlife, sightseeing, historical and cultural trips, village visits, walking and trekking, and community-based and volunteer options.

Three days in Gisenyi

Day one: Settle into Gisenyi, also known as Rubavu, in Rwanda's Western Province, and get your bearings along the shore of Lake Kivu. The town sits close to the Democratic Republic of Congo, with Goma visible across the water, so the border atmosphere shapes daily life here. Spend the afternoon around the waterfront and the neighbourhood of Kisenyi, then take a motorbike taxi to see how the town stretches along the lake. In the evening, eat at one of the lakeside spots and watch the sun go down over the water.

Day two: Plan a day on Lake Kivu. Ferries run on Wednesdays and Sundays, so time your trip accordingly if you want to cross the water rather than stay on the shore. You can also head south towards Kibuye, or arrange a boat trip to take in the views back towards Gisenyi and across to Congo. If you prefer to stay in town, walk through the streets near the border and see the crossing points at Petite Barrière and Grande Barrière, where Rwandan and Congolese traders and travellers pass through. Despite the quiet pace, there is plenty to watch.

Day three: Use your last day for the longer journeys. Buses connect Gisenyi with Kigali and with Cyangugu, and Kampala Coach services run onwards to Kampala in Uganda. If you are heading south, the road along the lake towards Kibuye is slow but scenic. Before you leave, take one more walk along the shore, bear in mind that March brings heavy rain, and make the most of the warm, humid air by the water.