Musanze
Introduction
Musanze is a sector in the district of the same name, in Rwanda's Northern Province. It sits in the north of the country, and the surrounding district shares its name.
Getting there
Several bus companies run between Kigali and Musanze (the Kigali–Ruhengeri direction) roughly every half hour, with the journey taking about two hours. Buy your ticket at the main bus station in Nyabugogo, where each company keeps its own small office — look for the signs reading "Kigali-Musanze." It's best not to buy in advance: turn up at the station and expect to depart in around 30 minutes. If you buy your ticket just before leaving, you may end up with a poor seat or have to stand. Companies serving the route include Virunga Express, Kigali Bus Service, Ritco and International Express.
From Gisenyi, buses bound for Kigali leave every 30 minutes and reach Ruhengeri after about 1 hour 20 minutes.
Getting around
Musanze is compact, and most journeys around town are short. Walking is the default: you can comfortably cross the town from one end to the other along the main road in roughly half an hour to forty minutes, and on foot you can reach guesthouses, restaurants, shops and the bus station. It is also the cheapest option and the easiest way to get a feel for the town.
For anything longer, or when you are carrying luggage or heading off the main road, the moto-taxi is the other mode that matters. Motorcycle taxis are readily available, and fares are negotiable, so agree on a price with the driver before you set off. Conventional taxis and app-based ride-hailing are not documented here, so plan your local rides around moto-taxis. There is no local rail, metro or tram network; intercity buses and moto-taxis cover the ground instead. Buses connect Musanze to the rest of Rwanda, and this is how most visitors arrive and leave. From Kigali, several companies serve the route with departures roughly every half hour, and the journey takes about two hours; recommended operators include Virunga Express, Kigali Bus Service, Ritco and International Express. From Gisenyi, buses bound for Kigali run about every half hour and reach Musanze after roughly an hour and twenty minutes. Buy your ticket at the bus station rather than in advance — in Kigali that means the main bus station at Nyabugogo, where each company has its own small office and signs reading "Kigali–Musanze." Expect to leave within about half an hour, and allow a little buffer time so you are not left with a poor seat or standing. Musanze has no commercial airport, so arrivals come via Kigali International Airport and continue overland by bus.
Where to stay
Musanze has a range of places to sleep, from basic guesthouses to lodges aimed at gorilla trekkers. Budget travellers can look at the New Silver Hotel or the cheaper rooms at Fatima Guesthouse, though the cheapest options in town tend to be very basic. Red Rocks Guesthouse, also known as Amahoro Guesthouse, is a small place that also organises tours, with dorm beds, camping (bring your own tent or rent one) and private rooms; there is a second Red Rocks campsite in nearby Nkotsi. The Virunga Hotel sits by the Virunga bus station, convenient if you are arriving or leaving by bus.
If you want more comfort, several lodges and hotels cater to visitors with a fuller set of services. Gorillas Volcanoes Hotel offers free Wi-Fi, parking, laundry service, a restaurant, kitchens in some rooms and is kid-friendly. Urugano Virunga Palace provides free Wi-Fi, free breakfast, a business center and welcomes pets and children. Classic Lodge includes breakfast, air-conditioned rooms, kitchens in all rooms, an airport shuttle and is pet- and kid-friendly. Volcano View has free parking, a restaurant and free Wi-Fi, while Da Vinci Gorilla Lodge and Ingagi Park View Lodge are further options in the area.
Food & drink
Ruhengeri has a spread of restaurants and cafés that cater to both visitors and locals. For breakfast, Crema serves bagels with various spreads alongside coffee, while Migano Cafe covers breakfast, lunch and dinner with burgers, sandwiches, brochettes, pastas and pizza. Volcana Lounge serves lunch and dinner, with wood-fired pizzas, lasagnas and salads on the menu, plus beer, wine and alcohol, and an upstairs patio with intimate seating and a view. Afri-Indian Restaurant, near Horizon Sopyrwa, offers dishes such as chicken biryani and rice. Other places to eat include Five Volcano Boutique Hotel and Le Bambou Gorilla Lodge.
As a tourist city, Ruhengeri also has plenty of bars and coffee shops. Migano Coffee is one option, and its free WiFi is often the fastest in town. Garden Place Coffee Shop and Casa Mia are both open around the clock, while Maya's and Twist Bar & Restaurant are further spots for a drink.
What to see and do
Volcanoes National Park is the main draw, and its attractions must be arranged in advance through tour companies or the Rwanda Tourism Board. Gorilla visits are the headline activity: permits are limited per day and often sell out months ahead, and you spend an hour with the gorillas. You can also track golden monkeys, climb Karisimbi volcano on a two-day trek with overnight camping high on the mountain, or climb Bisoke volcano on a round trip of several hours. Other options include visiting the tomb of Dian Fossey, exploring the lava caves and tunnels, and visiting Lakes Burera and Ruhondo. Much of the revenue from tourism goes towards maintaining the park and conserving wildlife, with a share directed to local projects so that people in the area benefit from the park. In town, you can stroll through the lively markets. In the north-west part of town stands a cathedral built in 2016, a large church with seating for roughly two thousand people, alongside an amphitheater. Near the south-west end of town, you can climb a hill overlooking Musanze and take in the panoramic view of the volcanoes.Three days in Musanze
Day one: Base yourself in Musanze, the main town of Rwanda's Northern Province, and settle into one of the guesthouses or hotels in town, such as New Silver Hotel, Fatima Guesthouse, Red Rocks Guesthouse, Amahoro Guesthouse, The Virunga Hotel, Gorillas Volcanoes Hotel, Urugano Virunga Palace or Classic Lodge. Many places offer Wi-Fi, so you can plan the days ahead. If you arrive from Kigali, buses run from Nyabugogo, with companies including Virunga Express, Kigali Bus Service, Ritco and International Express; from Gisenyi there are also services. Expect a few hours on the road. Once in town, walking and motorcycle taxis are the usual ways to get around, and conventional buses cover longer hops.
- Buy your ticket in advance at Nyabugogo if you are coming from Kigali.
- Ask your guesthouse about Wi-Fi before you settle in.
Day two: Head out towards the Virunga area and the surroundings of Musanze. Red Rocks is a common starting point for walks and community visits, and Nkotsi is nearby. Volcano View and the lodges around town make good bases if you prefer to be closer to the trailheads. Keep the day flexible: weather in this part of Rwanda can turn cool and wet, so carry a layer and rain protection.
- Arrange any guided walk through your guesthouse or a local operator.
- Motorcycle taxis are a quick way to reach nearby trailheads.
Day three: Use your last day to move at an easier pace. If you are flying out, allow time to reach Kigali International Airport, either by bus from Musanze or by arranging a transfer. Budget travellers often break the journey in Kigali, where you can connect to Nyabugogo for onward buses. If you are heading north instead, services from Gisenyi pass through the area. Confirm departure times the day before, since schedules can change.
- Buses from Musanze to Kigali are the simplest link to the airport.
- Companies such as Ritco and Virunga Express serve the main routes.